115 research outputs found
Design Trades and Inter-firm Relationships in the Nord-Pas de Calais Textile Industry
No full textIn the French Nord-Pas de Calais region, textile design is an ancient trade rooted in tradition. Today this region offers the highest number of textile jobs in France, surpassing the Rhône-Alpes and Paris regions. This paper treats textile design as a particular case exemplifying recent changes in the textile industry. The production process is subject to major changes, and design has become more specialized and professional. In order to compete in the international market, companies are developing new strategies involving design and technical innovation. This study focuses on the status and the roles that textile designers, stylists and textile draughtsmen/women play in corporate strategies. It examines the transformation of internal power relations between manufacturers and distributors in the textile value chain. The shift in the balance of power from the manufacturers to the distributors shows that a new hierarchical model of subordination/domination is emerging in inter-firm relations. Dans la région française du Nord-Pas de Calais, le design textile s'enracine profondément dans la tradition. De nos jours cette région offre le plus grand nombre d'emplois de l'industrie textile française, surpassant la région Rhône-Alpes et la région parisienne. Notre problématique considère que le design textile permet de saisir certaines des mutations contemporaines de l'industrie textile. Le processus de production connaît de profonds changements, celui de la création s'est spécialisé et professionnalisé. Pour faire face à la concurrence internationale, les entreprises ont développé de nouvelles stratégies, intégrant l'innovation technique et la création. Cet article présente les mutations de l'industrie textile en examinant plus particulièrement la place qu'occupent les professionnels de la création (designers textiles, stylistes, dessinateurs textiles, etc.) dans les stratégies des entreprises. Il examine la transformation des relations de pouvoir entre fabricants et distributeurs dans la filière textile. Le déplacement de la répartition des pouvoirs des fabricants aux distributeurs montre qu'un nouveau modèle hiérarchique de subordination/domination s'est mis en place. In der französischen Gegion Nord-Pas de Calais ist Textilentwurf ein altes, in Tradition verwurzeltes Gewerbe. Heutzutage ist sie führend in der Zahl der Erwerbsstellen in der Textilindustrie, und übertrifft somit das Rhone-Alpengebiet und Paris. Dieser Aufsatz behandelt Textilentwurf als einen Sonderfall, der neue Entwicklungen in der Textilindustrie veranschaulicht. Das Produktionsverfahren ist beträchtlichen Umstellungen unterworfen, und das Entwurfswesen ist spezialisierter und fachmännischer geworden. Um auf dem internationalen Markt wettbewerbsfähig zu bleiben, werden von Firmen neue Strategien entwickelt, einschließlich Entwurfs-und technischer Integration. Diese Studie beschäftigt sich vorallem mit dem Status und der Rolle, die Fachleute des Textilentwurfs, Stilisten und Textilzeichner/innen in Firmenstrategien spielen. Es werden Veränderungen interner Machtbeziehungen zwischen Produktion und Vertrieb in der Textilwertkette untersucht. Die Verschiebung im Gleichgewicht der Macht von den Herstellern zu den Verkäufern zeigt, daß sich in den Beziehungen zwischen Firmen der Aufstieg eines neuen hierarchischen Modells der Unterordnung/Beherrschung anbahnt.Textile Design, Design Trades, Textile Value Chain, Distributors, Product Design, Nord-PAS De Calais Region,
Environmental stresses mediate endophyte–grass interactions in a boreal archipelago
No full textSummary
1. Both evolutionary theory and empirical evidence from agricultural research support the view that asexual, vertically transmitted fungal endophytes are typically plant mutualists that develop high infection frequencies within host grass populations. In contrast, endophyte–grass interactions in natural ecosystems are more variable, spanning the range from mutualism to antagonism and comparatively little is known about their range of response to environmental stress.
2. We examined patterns in endophyte prevalence and endophyte–grass interactions across nutrient and grazing (from Greylag and Canada geese) gradients in 15 sites with different soil moisture levels in 13 island populations of the widespread grass Festuca rubra in a boreal archipelago in Sweden.
3. In the field, endophyte prevalence levels were generally low (range = 10–53%) compared with those reported from agricultural systems. Under mesic‐moist conditions endophyte prevalence was constantly low (mean prevalence = 15%) and was not affected by grazing pressure or nutrient availability. In contrast, under conditions of drought, endophyte prevalence increased from 10% to 53% with increasing nutrient availability and increasing grazing pressure.
4. In the field, we measured the production of flowering culms, as a proxy for host fitness, to determine how endophyte‐infected plants differed from uninfected plants. At dry sites, endophyte infection did not affect flowering culm production. In contrast, at mesic‐moist sites production of flowering culms in endophyte‐infected plants increased with the covarying effects of increasing nutrient availability and grazing pressure, indicating that the interaction switched from antagonistic to mutualistic.
5. A concurrent glasshouse experiment showed that in most situations, the host appears to incur some costs for harbouring endophytes. Uninfected grasses generally outperformed infected grasses (antagonistic interaction), while infected grasses outperformed uninfected grasses (mutualistic interaction) only in dry, nutrient‐rich conditions. Nutrient and water addition affected tiller production, leaf number and leaf length differently, suggesting that tillers responded with different strategies. This emphasizes that several response variables are needed to evaluate the interaction.
6. Synthesis. This study found complex patterns in endophyte prevalence that were not always correlated with culm production. These contrasting patterns suggest that the direction and strength of selection on infected plants is highly variable and depends upon a suite of interacting environmental variables that may fluctuate in the intensity of their impact, during the course of the host life cycle.Peer reviewedfinal article publishedantagonist–mutualist continuumwater stresssymbiosisSwedennutrient stressherbivorygrassFestuca rubraEpichloë festucaeendophyt
BACTERIEMIES CHEZ LES PATIENTS INFECTES PAR LE VIRUS DE L'IMMUNODEFICIENCE HUMAINE SOUS TRAITEMENT ANTIRETROVIRAL COMPRENANT UN INHIBITEUR DE PROTEASE
No full textPARIS6-Bibl. St Antoine CHU (751122104) / SudocPARIS-BIUM (751062103) / SudocSudocFranceF
One Step Forward and Two Steps Back: The Role of Civil Society Organizations in Reversed Integration Processes among Refugees in Norway
No full textThis is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons NonCommercial-NoDerivatives Attribution 4.0 International License (CC-BY-NC-ND 4.0), which permits unrestricted distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited, the material is not used for commercial purposes and is not altered in any way. See https:// creativecommons.org/ licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/Refugees settling in Norway experience several barriers to labour market integration, such as language insufficiency, low or unrecognised formal competence, and discrimination. While numerous scholars have dealt with the issues of both policy implementation and the outcome of public measures, there is a growing interest in the contributions of civil society organizations (CSOs) to the labour market integration of refugees. Such an interest is fueled by the proliferation of neoliberal reforms in European welfare states and restrictive budgets, leading to increased recognition of CSOs as resolutions to social issues. Based on ethnographic fieldwork among refugees and employees in two CSOs in Norway, the findings suggest a particularly vulnerable phase immediately after the public introduction programme for refugees not moving on to employment, education, or training. Drawing on Bourdieu’s concept of different forms of capital in addition to Granovetter’s theory of social network, I argue that CSOs have a profound role in preventing the reversed integration processes that occur in this specific phase of settlement.publishedVersio
Group differences in word use and meaning: A text analysis of the abstract word, "Values"
No full textPeople often use the same word while meaning very different things. Text analysis procedures can be applied to determine something of the meaning of words, typically from a single author. Rarely, however, have these procedures been used to explore the differences between individuals with different backgrounds and agendas and yet who ostensibly claim to be talking about the same thing. In the current study, we explored the way in which an abstract word, ‘values’, was used by three interest groups in relation to the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, in Australia. Documents about the Wet Tropics produced by three environmental organisations, involved in either research, management, or conservation activism, were compared for their use of the word 'values'. Using WordStat text processing software, distributional information in the localised sentence context (keyword frequencies by group and proximal co-occurrence) was explored for clues to differences in the applied meanings of 'values'. Type-token identities showed that vocabulary diversity was similar for all groups. Cluster analyses revealed group differences in word associations and conceptual themes surrounding ‘values’. The research group tended towards operational terms, in contrast with the management group themes relating to links with Indigenous landowners and their cultural ties to the land, and conservation group themes relating to economics and community development. As examples of language ‘slippage’, keywords associated with ‘values’ showed that presence of the expression can predict connotations of economic worth (ECONOMIC, VALUE, RESOURCE), positive and negative attributions (QUALITY, POTENTIAL, THREAT), and physical substance (FOREST, SPECIES, HABITAT). Values are additionally associated with environmentally relevant behaviours (CONTROL, PROTECTION, MANAGEMENT). It is essential for effective communication and credible environmental science that such core terms and considerations as environmental ‘values’ convey clear and shared meanings
On Fatigue Damage Assessment for Offshore Support Structures with Tubular Joints
No full textAbstractThe hot spot stress approach is commonly used for fatigue lifetime estimation of tubular joints. The standard approach consists of the linear superposition of stress components from axial, in-plane, and out of plane action, leading to 8 hot spot stresses equally divided along the circumference of each tubular joint. The fatigue lifetime for a joint is calculated by accumulating the fatigue damage over several load cases. The fatigue damage used per load case is commonly the maximum fatigue damage out of the 8 hot spots. In this study, another approach has been evaluated. Fatigue lifetime is estimated by accumulation of fatigue damage over load cases for each hot spot individually, instead of taking the maximum out of the 8 hot spots. The proposed approach is compared with the commonly used approach using a generic lattice type support structure for offshore wind turbines. In addition, the number of hot spots along the circumference of the joint is increased to 32 points in order to study the influence on the fatigue lifetime estimation. Results show a difference in the fatigue lifetime estimation for individual joints up to 26% when using the proposed approach for estimating the fatigue lifetime. Furthermore, it is shown that the consideration of 32 points along the circumference of tubular joints lead to more precise fatigue damage. Differences up to 11% were detected
Work on values when shaping public institutions: “What’s trust got to do with it?” - Experiences from Scandinavia. Kap. 12
No full textValues work appears in the shaping of structures as well as in the shaping of cultures in organisations. In this chapter, the author elaborates on mechanisms of values work, based on textual analysis of articles concerning trust and trust-based management in three Scandinavian popular scientific journals. The findings indicate that trust is ‘worked upon’ in the shaping of structures within public organisations, and not in an homogenous manner. Competing concerns for trust and distrust in public sector are manifestations of differences between institutional logics. The variety in understanding concerns related to trust in public institutions illustrates the ambiguity within values. Yet this ambiguity makes it possible for actors to agree on the importance of trust yet differ fundamentally on the understanding of what it means to structurally perform and strengthen trust
A Look at the Possible Effects of Genial/Eclectic Learning Environments In Denmark and The United States of America
No full textThe intent of this qualitative research is to gain knowledge and understanding of the impact a genial/eclectic environment may have upon creativity and skillful problem solving. Upon invitation from Benedicte Riis, a well-known Danish educator, composer, author, musician, and presenter in Denmark, Bulgaria, Norway, and the United States; I embarked on a trip to Ebeltoft, Denmark in May of2000 to study her pedagogy. My desire was to compare the methodologies, philosophies, and classroom environments of Benedicte\u27s Tante Andante Hus in Denmark with Franklin Elementary School in Council Bluffs, Iowa. My professors at the University of Northern Iowa encouraged me to prepare a series of questions that could be asked about an object that students would most likely be unable to identify. The object of discovery was a peccary skull. The twenty interviews (ten in Denmark and ten in the U.S.A.) were conducted in environments where freedom of thought and exploration were encouraged. The students interviewed were four to six years of age, and there were equal numbers of female and male subjects in each population group. Parental/guardian permission was granted. I employed the same procedures and standards in both countries. Answers were recorded on audio tape and analyzed to ascertain if the genial/eclectic environment these students were accustomed to would aid in the art/science of problem solving and creativity
Det mystiske X. Rekonstruktionen af tabte identiteter
No full textThe article describes the methodological development of Identification in forensic medicine, thereby sketching out the historical interconnection between art, medicine and anthropology. Social anthropology usually understands personal identity as a person’s sense of belonging to a certain group on various grounds. Physical anthropology, on the other hand, understands personal identity as identification. The reconstruction of a person’s identity from bodily remains can be done only with help of measurements and use of “scientific” systems for classification of humans. The article shows these systems as cultural constructs. Also artists are sometimes called in to help reconstruct a human face for identification. Like natural scientists, artists have systems of signs - only they seem to escape conscious classifications, putting science in a dilemma. The continued use of medical artists and computerised “phantom” images when constructing a hypothetical identity, urges the author to recommend further research into the semiotics of art and science, especially with the regard to culturally determined ways of seeing, measuring and classifying
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