1,720,955 research outputs found

    Soil-centric textile practices: designing textiles to phase out waste and regenerate the soil through composting

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    Starting from the reckless exploitation of soil as a resource at humans’ disposal, this research highlights the role of the textile industry in regard to the soil and voices the urgency to explore practices of restoration through a regenerative material approach. From circular economy to regenerative agriculture, design has the power and responsibility to exercise its impactful role in influencing a general mindshift within the industry and to sketch out ‘preferable scenarios,’ both through speculative and practical actions. This paper surveys the literature on practices and methodologies that concern the soil ecosystem. Drawing the lines between soil-agriculture-textile, the investigation proposes to look at the soil-origin of textiles and to practice natural circular ways through clothes-composting. Ultimately it is a reflection on the potential of a soil-centric textile industry in which waste does not exist as such but it rather turns into new ‘food’ pursuing its natural cyclicity and regenerating the ecosystem

    Fortuny, estetica dell’atmosfera e biofilia della moda: pigmenti, morfologie e aura d’inizio Novecento

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    This article places the historical-critical reflection on the work of the artist, inventor and designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (Granada 1871 – Venice 1949) and of his closest collaborator, his wife Adèle Henriette Nigrin (Fontainebleau 1877 – Venice 1965), within the framework of recent studies on the biophilia of fashion. In the last decade, an initial analysis has been undertaken to link Fortuny’s experiments with light–in painting, textiles, photography and set design–to the concept of atmosphere elaborated in philosophy by Gernot Böhme and Tonino Griffero. However, a study of Fortuny and Nigrin’s proto-ecological sensibility with respect to such a concept of atmosphere is lacking. Delving into the field of textile and clothing design that they developed in the early 20th century, the article focuses on three interconnected atmospheric aspects: the aura radiated by the clouds, skyes, and water of the Venice lagoon; the relationship between fashion, bodies and vegetable morphology in the Art Nouveau; and the materiality of the pigments and fibers adopted. The article aims to demonstrate how Fortuny-Nigrin’s environmental thinking and their aesthetics of atmosphere participate fully to the idea of Total Work of Art.Questo contributo colloca la riflessione storico-critica sul lavoro dell’artista, inventore e designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (Granada 1871 – Venezia 1949) e dalla sua più stretta collaboratrice, la moglie Adèle Henriette Nigrin (Fontainebleau 1877 – Venezia 1965), nel quadro dei recenti studi sulla biofilia della moda. Nell’ultimo decennio, è stata avviata una prima analisi volta a collegare le sperimentazioni realizzate da Fortuny sulla luce – in ambito pittorico, tessile, fotografico e scenografico – al concetto di atmosfera elaborato in ambito filosofico da Gernot Böhme e Tonino Griffero. Tuttavia, manca uno studio sulla sensibilità proto-ecologica di Fortuny e Nigrin, rispetto a tale concetto di atmosfera. Approfondendo l’ambito della progettazione tessile e d’abbigliamento da loro sviluppata all’inizio del XX secolo, l’articolo si sofferma su tre aspetti atmosferici interconnessi: l’aura irradiata dalle nuvole, dai cieli e dall’acqua della laguna Venezia; il rapporto tra moda, forme del corpo e morfologie vegetali nell’Art Nouveau; la materialità dei pigmenti e delle fibre utilizzati. L’articolo intende dimostrare come il pensiero ambientale di Fortuny-Nigrin e la loro estetica dell'atmosfera partecipino a pieno titolo all'idea di Arte totale

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed

    Variations on the Author

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    “Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship

    Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis

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    We provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis

    Dispelling the Myths Behind First-author Citation Counts

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    We conducted a full-scale evaluative citation analysis study of scholars in the XML research field to explore just how different from each other author rankings resulting from different citation counting methods actually are, and to demonstrate the capability of emerging data and tools on the Web in supporting more realistic citation counting methods. Our results contest some common arguments for the continued use of first-author citation counts in the evaluation of scholars, such as high correlations between author rankings by first-author citation counts and other citation counting methods, and high costs of using more realistic citation counting methods that are not well-supported by the ISI databases. It is argued that increasingly available digital full text research papers make it possible for citation analysis studies to go beyond what the ISI databases have directly supported and to employ more sophisticated methods

    Author Index

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    Prácticas textiles centradas en el suelo: Diseñar textiles para eliminar los residuos y regenerar el suelo mediante el compostaje

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    Starting from the reckless exploitation of soil as a resource at humans’ disposal, this research highlights the role of the textile industry in regard to the soil and voices the urgency to explore practices of restoration through a regenerative material approach. From circular economy to regenerative agriculture, design has the power and responsibility to exercise its impactful role in influencing a general mindshift within the industry and to sketch out ‘preferable scenarios,’ both through speculative and practical actions. This paper surveys the literature on practices and methodologies that concern the soil ecosystem. Drawing the lines between soil-agriculture-textile, the investigation proposes to look at the soil-origin of textiles and to practice natural circular ways through clothes-composting. Ultimately it is a reflection on the potential of a soil-centric textile industry in which waste does not exist as such but it rather turns into new ‘food’ pursuing its natural cyclicity and regenerating the ecosystem.  Partiendo de la explotación imprudente del suelo como recurso a disposición del ser humano, esta investigación pone de relieve el papel de la industria textil con respecto al suelo y expresa la urgencia de explorar prácticas de restauración mediante un enfoque material regenerativo. Desde la economía circular hasta la agricultura regenerativa, el diseño tiene el poder y la responsabilidad de ejercer su impactante papel a la hora de influir en un cambio de mentalidad general dentro de la industria y esbozar "escenarios preferibles", tanto a través de acciones especulativas como prácticas. Este artículo examina la literatura sobre prácticas y metodologías relacionadas con el ecosistema del suelo. Trazando las líneas entre suelo-agricultura-textil, la investigación propone examinar el origen del suelo de los textiles y practicar vías circulares naturales a través del compostaje de ropa. En última instancia, es una reflexión sobre el potencial de una industria textil centrada en el suelo, en la que los residuos no existen como tales, sino que se convierten en nuevos "alimentos" siguiendo su ciclicidad natural y regenerando el ecosistema.    

    koamabayili/VECTRON-author-checklist: VECTRON author checklist

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    We have done our best to complete the author checklist relating to the use of animals in the hut study. Note that the objective for the hut study was to evaluate the IRS treatment applications for residual efficacy against Anopheles mosquitoes, including the local An. coluzzii mosquito population. Cows were only used to attract mosquitoes into the huts and no tests were carried out directly on the cows. The author checklist is intended for use with studies where experiments are carried out on animals, which is why we have had such difficulty in completing this for the hut study, as many of the questions do not relate to how the cows were used
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