248 research outputs found
Dispersive wave runup on non-uniform shores
8 pages, 6 figures, 18 references. This preprint is submitted to FVCA6 conference proceedings. Other author papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/International audienceHistorically the finite volume methods have been developed for the numerical integration of conservation laws. In this study we present some recent results on the application of such schemes to dispersive PDEs. Namely, we solve numerically a representative of Boussinesq type equations in view of important applications to the coastal hydrodynamics. Numerical results of the runup of a moderate wave onto a non-uniform beach are presented along with great lines of the employed numerical method (see D. Dutykh et al. (2011) for more details)
Solitary wave interaction in a compact equation for deep-water gravity waves
8 pages, 5 figures, 23 references. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/International audienceIn this study we compute numerical traveling wave solutions to a compact version of the Zakharov equation for unidirectional deep-water waves recently derived by Dyachenko & Zakharov (2011) Furthermore, by means of an accurate Fourier-type spectral scheme we find that solitary waves appear to collide elastically, suggesting the integrability of the Zakharov equation
Visco-potential free-surface flows and long wave modelling
29 pages, 13 figures. Some references were added. Other author's papers can be downloaded from http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/International audienceIn a recent study [DutykhDias2007] we presented a novel visco-potential free surface flows formulation. The governing equations contain local and nonlocal dissipative terms. From physical point of view, local dissipation terms come from molecular viscosity but in practical computations, rather eddy viscosity should be used. On the other hand, nonlocal dissipative term represents a correction due to the presence of a bottom boundary layer. Using the standard procedure of Boussinesq equations derivation, we come to nonlocal long wave equations. In this article we analyse dispersion relation properties of proposed models. The effect of nonlocal term on solitary and linear progressive waves attenuation is investigated. Finally, we present some computations with viscous Boussinesq equations solved by a Fourier type spectral method
Hamiltonian form and solitary waves of the spatial Dysthe equations
6 pages, 9 figures. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/International audienceThe spatial Dysthe equations describe the envelope evolution of the free-surface and potential of gravity waves in deep waters. Their Hamiltonian structure and new invariants are unveiled by means of a gauge transformation to a new canonical form of the evolution equations. An accurate Fourier-type spectral scheme is used to solve for the wave dynamics and validate the new conservation laws, which are satisfied up to machine precision. Traveling waves are numerically constructed using the Petviashvili method. It is shown that their collision appears inelastic, suggesting the non-integrability of the Dysthe equations
Finite volume schemes for Boussinesq type equations
6 pages, 2 figures, 18 references. Published in proceedings of Colloque EDP-Normandie held at Caen (France), on 28 & 29 October 2010. Other author papers can be dowloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/International audienceFinite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems. We focus mainly on the application of the method to bidirectional nonlinear, dispersive wave propagation in one space dimension. Special emphasis is given to important nonlinear phenomena such as solitary waves interactions
Shallow water equations for large bathymetry variations
7 pages. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/International audienceIn this study, we propose an improved version of the nonlinear shallow water (or Saint-Venant) equations. This new model is designed to take into account the effects resulting from the large spacial and/or temporal variations of the seabed. The model is derived from a variational principle by choosing the appropriate shallow water ansatz and imposing suitable constraints. Thus, the derivation procedure does not explicitly involve any small parameter
Group and phase velocities in the free-surface visco-potential flow: new kind of boundary layer induced instability
12 pages, 7 figures. Reviewer's comments were taken into account. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/International audienceWater wave propagation can be attenuated by various physical mechanisms. One of the main sources of wave energy dissipation lies in boundary layers. The present work is entirely devoted to thorough analysis of the dispersion relation of the novel visco-potential formulation. Namely, in this study we relax all assumptions of the weak dependence of the wave frequency on time. As a result, we have to deal with complex integro-differential equations that describe transient behaviour of the phase and group velocities. Using numerical computations, we show several snapshots of these important quantities at different times as functions of the wave number. Good qualitative agreement with previous study [Dutykh2009] is obtained. Thus, we validate in some sense approximations made anteriorly. There is an unexpected conclusion of this study. According to our computations, the bottom boundary layer creates disintegrating modes in the group velocity. In the same time, the imaginary part of the phase velocity remains negative for all times. This result can be interpreted as a new kind of instability which is induced by the bottom boundary layer effect
Special solutions to a compact equation for deep-water gravity waves
17 pages, 14 figures, 41 references. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/International audienceRecently, Dyachenko & Zakharov (2011) have derived a compact form of the well known Zakharov integro-differential equation for the third order Hamiltonian dynamics of a potential flow of an incompressible, infinitely deep fluid with a free surface. Special traveling wave solutions of this compact equation are numerically constructed using the Petviashvili method. Their stability properties are also investigated. Further, unstable traveling waves with wedge-type singularities, viz. peakons, are numerically discovered. To gain insights into the properties of singular traveling waves, we consider the academic case of a perturbed version of the compact equation, for which analytical peakons with exponential shape are derived. Finally, by means of an accurate Fourier-type spectral scheme it is found that smooth solitary waves appear to collide elastically, suggesting the integrability of the Zakharov equation
Derivation of dissipative Boussinesq equations using the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator approach
18 pages, 3 figures. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.denys-dutykh.com/International audienceThe water wave theory traditionally assumes the fluid to be perfect, thus neglecting all effects of the viscosity. However, the explanation of several experimental data sets requires the explicit inclusion of dissipative effects. In order to meet these practical problems, the theory of visco-potential flows has been developed (see P.-F. Liu & A. Orfila (2004) and D. Dutykh & F. Dias (2007)). Then, usually this formulation is further simplified by developing the potential in an entire series in the vertical coordinate and by introducing thus, the long wave approximation. In the present study we propose a derivation of dissipative Boussinesq equations which is based on asymptotic expansions of the Dirichlet-to-Neumann (D2N) operator. Both employed methods yield the same system by different ways
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