FKW // Zeitschrift für Geschlechterforschung und visuelle Kultur
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Visuelle Migrationen – Bild-Bewegungen zwischen Zeiten, Medien und Kulturen
Visual Migrations – the Movement of Images between Times, Media and Cultures“Visual Migrations” focuses on the interface and interferences between discourses on migration and discourses on images. The issue, thus, links two current debates that so far have been discussed separately: the visual representation of migrants and migration as it has gained growing importance in the political and social sciences, on the one hand, and, on the other, the migration of images that constitutes a central topic in contemporary image sciences. In different ways, both discourses correspond to the political and economic changes since the early 1990s, to notions of globalization and to the enforcement of digital technologies, computer and Internet. They share metaphors of description like “flow” or “flood” – of data, of images, of people – indicating a powerful functioning of the system or its threat and endangerment. The particular contributions to the issue explore how images of migrants and/or migration and migrations of images converge and interact. By way of focusing on the politics of representation as a giving-to-be-seen and taking the uses of images and their effects as analytical approach, they explicitly or implicitly critique W.J.T. Mitchell’s notion of a pictorial turn as much as his differentiation between image circulation and image migration. Taking into account the concept of a (trans-)cultural image repertoire and the effectiveness of the unconscious as having a crucial impact on the particular choices of images, e.g. in processes of stereotyping or the naturalization of meanings, they explore image circulations as movements that cannot be stripped off (their) historical, cultural and medial dimensions and conditions
Stitch reloaded. Rezension zu Mathilda Felix: Stricken in der Kunst der Gegenwart, Bielefeld, transcript Verlag 2010
Webschiffe, Kriegspfade / Talares, Senda Guerra / Loom Shuttles, Warpaths
INES DOUJAK Webschiffe, Kriegspfade/Telares, Senda Guerrera/LoomShuttles, WarpathsLoom Shuttles, Warpaths is a two-year art research project based on a deliberately subjective collection of textiles from the Andes region. The collection encompasses textiles as varied as the aprons of market women from La Paz and the ritual ponchos of Amazonian shamans. The project evolved out of a long relationship with Latin American countries and a series of journeys that took me there. To this day, all aspects of life in this region are defined by textiles, always associated with symbolic, ideological, and practical applications. Loom Shuttles, Warpaths is also about inventing places beyond the dualities of the logos and mythos in Classical Platonism with which the history of modernism still confronts us. At the same time, it gives us an opportunity to learn from textiles as representatives of other knowledge and value systems. By means of this eccentric archive and indigenous knowledge resources, Loom Shuttles, Warpaths will identify connecting links to colonial structures around the world and describe connections between their past and present history
Kleidung als Kunst_ Portrait einer Ikatdesignerin in Ostindonesien
WILLEMIJN DE JONGClothing as Art: The Portrait of a Woman Ikat Designer in Eastearn IndonesiaIn Eastern Indonesia, hand-woven clothing with ikat designs are highly valued as prestigious artifacts. They are worn at feasts and other public events, exchanged as gifts, and they are sold to locals, tourists and museums. In this article it is argued that richly decorated women’s sarongs created by master weavers represent a unique form of art. This is shown through the analysis of figurative ikat sarongs (lawo gamba) as a special type of textiles, each piece of which is one of a kind. One of the locally well-known master weavers of a main cultural center in Central Flores is portrayed through five of her figurative sarongs created during the period of 1995 to 2011. Referring to Alfred Gell’s social anthropological art theory and the feminist postcolonial approach of the globalization of Asian dress by Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich, and Carla Jones, it is proposed that the figurative ikat clothes in this case study derive their artistic quality from the entanglement of local, national, and transnational processes and social interactions, in which they are imbued with agency through technical skills, aesthetics, and intentionality regarding the ikat designs. By explicitly including certain items of ikat clothing in the global art system, as Sandra Niessen does with certain items of hand-woven clothes from Western Indonesia in the global fashion system, a rethinking of ikat textiles as artifacts in Eastern Indonesian cultural heritage is advocated
Rezension zu Viktoria Schmidt-Linsenhoff: Ästhetik der Differenz. Postkoloniale Perspektiven vom 16. bis 21. Jahrhundert. 15 Fallstudien. Marburg: Jonas Verlag 2010
Die Regentschaft nach der Wiener Mode. Herrschaftsansprüche Kaiser Maximilians I. Von Mexiko und das Regime der Wiener Mode
LISBETH FREIß Claims on Mexico. Regency after Viennese FashionAs a modernist European discourse, fashion operates as an agent to govern nation, culture, and space. During the nation-state renewal in 19th century Europe, Viennese fashion activated social and spatial borders and policies of appearances, following internal and external colonial intentions. Claims on Mexico analyses Viennese fashion (Wiener Mode) and its countercultures as colonial, national, and social regulatory policy. While the imperial elites in Vienna occupy ethnic and national costume as well as fashion for composing Viennese Fashion to regulate internal colonial and national identification within the Habsburg Monarchy, Maximilian v. Habsburg's assignment to the imperial Mexican crown in 1864 sideswipes Viennese fashion as a colonial regulator. The article discusses the attempt of Maximilian's reign in Mexico to strengthen his regime of Viennese fashions over “Fashion in Mexico”; analyzing references on Mexico in Viennese fashion magazines from 1844 and 1867, as well as Albert Kretschmer's and Carl Rohrbach's history of costumes The Peoples’ Costumes (1864)
"How (not) to Be Seen". Fragen der Sichtbarkeit von megrantischen Hausangestellten in Moira Zoitls dokumentarischen Kunstprojekt Chat(t)er Gardens. Stories by and about Filipina Workers
Renate Wöhrer“How (Not) to Be Seen”. Questions about the Strategies of Depiction of MigrantDomestic Workers in Moira Zoitl’s Documentary Art Project Chat(t)er Gardens. Stories by and about Filipina WorkersThe article discusses the art project “Chat(t)er Gardens. Stories by and about Filipina Workers” (2002–2008) by Moira Zoitl, which documents the living and working conditions of migrant domestic workers in Hong Kong. It analyses the strategies of depiction, concentrating on the relation between private and public realm, which plays a significant role in the situation of the workers. Within the negotiation of this relation the migrant domestic workers create forms of visibility, which Moira Zoitl focuses on. In the article these kinds of visibility are examined and put in relation to the politics of visibility within the art project itself