1,720,964 research outputs found

    Mediatization in Fashion. How Media Are Involved in Design Meanings and User Emotions

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    La ricerca offre una panoramica sull’ecosistema digitale in cinese, con particolare riferimento al ruolo dei media nel sistema moda. All'interno di questo vibrante contesto, il segmento emergente dei netizen della Generazione Z si pone nei confronti dei contenuti Web e dei social network in modo entusiasta e giocoso, guidando le tendenze di merca-to emergenti. Infatti, il ruolo dei media nel fashion system contempo-raneo sta rimodellando la comunicazione, il retail e il consumo quoti-diano evi media sono diventati sempre più centrali per ridefinire prati-che ed esperienze nella moda. Questo fenomeno è stato denominato “mediatizzazione”, dapprima sviluppatosi nelle capitali occidentali della moda e poi implementato principalmente nei mercati asiatici. In particolare, la ricerca si concentra su come le emozioni degli utenti svolgano un ruolo cruciale nella mediatizzazione della moda in Cina, come motore di trasformazione per comprendere i valori del prodotto e del marchio. Si evidenzia una differenziazione tra le diverse “emo-zioni digitali” e il modo in cui l'utente le sta vivendo. Da un lato le emozioni viscerali e comportamentali giocano un ruolo decisivo nelle tendenze emergenti contemporanee, caratterizzando le campagne di moda e le strategie di e-commerce dei principali marchi del sistema moda internazionale. D'altro canto, si evidenzia un interesse emergente per le emozioni riflessive, concentrandosi sulla comprensione e l'espe-rienza di storie e valori coerenti del sistema-prodotto. Come è succes-so nel fashion system occidentale, anche i brand emergenti cinesi stanno sviluppando esperienze riflessive nella moda, valorizzando valori legati al Patrimonio Culturale e alla qualità del prodotto che su-perano la consueta UX screen-based. Pertanto, si riscontra un nuovo potenziale nella mediatizzazione della moda che punta sulle emozioni riflessive coerenti e consistenti rispetto ai valori del sistema-prodotto.The research offers an overview on the role of media in the fashion system. Withing this vibrant ecosystem, the rising segment of netizens face web content and social networking in an enthusiastic and playful way, driving the ongoing market trends. In fact, the role of media in the contemporary fashion system is transforming communication, as retail practices and everyday consumption and media have become increasingly central to shaping practices and experiences in fashion. This phenomenon has been named “mediatization,” initially developed in Western fashion capitals and then mainly implemented in Asian markets. In particular, the article focuses on how user emotions play a crucial role in fashion mediatization in China. We differentiate between different digital emotions and how the user experiences them. On the one hand, visceral and behavioral emotions play a consistent role in contemporary emerging trends, and thus characterize the fashion campaigns and ecommerce strategies of the main international fashion brands. This study presents a design research on fashion an media developed by University of Florence aiming at investigating on creative generative processes in between fashion and media

    L'ARCHIVIO DIGITALE PER I PROCESSI DI ALTO ARTIGIANATO. Ricerche a confronto in Italia e Cina

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    Il contributo affronta la digitalizzazione del Patrimonio Intangibile custodito dai processi artigianali tradizionali dei distretti manifatturieri delle PMI tramite un confronto di due casi di studio. Due distinti territori produttivi – mobili e complementi in Toscana (Italia) e argenteria Miao nella Provincia di Guizhou (Cina) – sono indagati in termini di caratteristiche, strutture e capacità di accesso all’innovazione tecnologica. Dall’analisi emerge un ruolo privilegiato dell’archivio digitale, come catalizzatore di processi creativi e organizzativi, poiché da un lato favorisce la costruzione di una memoria organizzata e trasmissibile che supporta le PMI nella competitività dei mercati, dall’altro funge da base per lo sviluppo di processi di user-experience mirati alla divulgazione e al reinserimento nel contesto del design contemporaneo.This article approaches the digitisation of the Intangible Heritage preserved by the traditional craft processes of SME manufacturing districts through a comparison of two case studies. Two distinct manufacturing areas – furniture and accessories in Tuscany (Italy) and Miao silverware in Guizhou Province (China) – are investigated in terms of their characteristics, structures and capacity to access technological innovation. From the analysis emerges a privileged role of the digital archive as a catalyst of creative and organisational processes. On the one hand, it favours the construction of an organised and transmissible memory that supports SMEs in their market competitiveness. On the other, it serves as a basis for developing user-experience processes aimed at dissemination and reintegration in the context of contemporary design

    Shaping Emotions: a Study about the Feeling of Loneliness through the Material Interaction with Surfaces

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    This contribution aims to investigate how design culture can foster new models of emotional, social and cultural interaction that find in the pleasantness of the surface the creation of valuable experiences for users. In particular, the research examines interaction design from a different point of view, studying the relation of emotions and surfaces in a product-based interaction experience. Specifically, the contribution presents the results of a workshop called shaping emotions: a formal exercise based on the understanding of how user sensations - without precise references on a particular product - can play a decisive role in defining strategies that embrace the aesthetic and typological sphere of use and meanings. This study has highlighted the transfer of intangible psycho-cognitive aspects into tangible elements whose syntax and semiotics is driven by a phenomenological approach to the formal interpretation of an emotional concept. Emotions that occur from experiential states place the feelings of the human being as a focus of the project; through the design culture, the study tries to interpret experiences and desires as components of mixed emotions

    Saper fare del Made in Italy, tra tradizione e innovazione. Un confronto tra il comparto della pelletteria e quello dell'arredo in Toscana

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    Il valore intellettuale del gesto manuale è un elemento fondamentale per il mantenimento della qualità manifatturiera in Toscana. Gli elementi “immutabili” della produzione sopravvivono nei processi manifatturieri avanzati e contribuiscono a fronteggiare i cambiamenti radicali che hanno investito le produzioni negli ultimi vent’anni. Tramite una comparazione tra il comparto della pelletteria toscana e il distretto del mobile imbottito di Quarrata si descrive l’importanza di mantenere i valori storici dell’artigianato in contiguità ai processi di innovazione contemporanei. Questi aspetti, insieme all’integrazione delle attività nella filiera di sistemi produttivi e gestionali innovativi, nonché il legame con il contesto territoriale, risultano essere una leva di sviluppo indispensabile nell’ottica delle strategie di design.The aim of this paper is to analyze some of the unchanging elements in Tuscany production processes, unaffected by the transformation and innovation of manufacturing. Through a comparison between the leather goods sector and the Quarrata upholstered furniture district, the aim is to describe how important is to preserve historical craftsmanship values in contemporary innovation processes. These aspects, as well as the connection with the territorial context, turn out to be an indispensable tool for Tuscany SMI development in the perspective of design strategies

    Smart Vehicles. A design contribution for the changing urban mobility

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    Digital technologies nowadays invade every dimension of human life, manifesting themselves both in space and in objects, transforming our habitat into an intelligent place (smart city) with intelligent products (internet of things). Albeit technological advances are progressing with remarkable speed, offering new scenarios for the future use of cities, globalization 3.0 and knowledge economy have led to a phenomenon of wealth concentration in large cities, on one side, and increasingly weak peripheries on the other, making urban mobility a theme of interest. Italy, despite having significant physical characteristics such as the territorial extension of the nation which logically reduce geographical distances between cities (compared to the great metropolises of the world), shows the symptoms of a few areas of prosperity surrounded by suburbs that struggle to keep the step. In this scenario, we are wondering how design research can contribute to the mobility of the future, in particular to the changing concepts of cars, and what new challenges are awaiting. Almost a hundred years ago, Le Corbusier wrote that “automobile has completely overturned all our ideas on urban planning”(1). Today, it seems that this condition has returned, the new mobility systems could redefine the urban space, as these objects might no longer be called automobiles. In this design research, in fact, the term automobile disappears in reason of its definition: "Four-wheeled motor vehicle with a generally petrol engine, used to transport a limited number of people on ordinary roads”(2). We can now intend as a matter of fact, that artificial intelligence in everyday things, vehicle automation, the evolution of machine learning and computer vision technologies will make vehicles lose their distinguishing elements: indicators for direction, light sources, the necessary four wheels and the position of the passengers sitting in two or more rows with their eyes facing forward. Hence, the aim of this paper is to present an applied research dedicated to experimentation on the morphological aspects of future vehicles for urban mobility intended as connecting elements between large infrastructure networks and, consequently, as a part of an integrated transport system that can help in bring the suburbs “closer” to the centers. Through the description of some micro-vehicle concepts, that try to completely overturn the common ideas of vehicles, the objective is to propose a design experiment that aims at identifying new forms of mobility that are inclusive and sustainable from an energetic, urban and social environmental point of view

    Advanced Craftsmanship in furniture. The Tuscan sector between tradition and innovation 4.0 = Advanced Craftsmanship nell’arredo. Il comparto toscano tra tradizione e innovazione 4.0

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    Il sistema manifatturiero italiano del comparto arredo è composto da piccole e medie imprese (PMI) che detengono una tradizione produttiva di eccellenza, basata su conoscenze e processi artigianali. Se da un lato le PMI sono legate al “saper fare” storicizzato, dall’altro necessitano di effi caci percorsi di innovazione nel design e nella produzione. Attraverso modelli di manifattura 4.0, alcune aziende leader di fi liera sviluppano trasformazioni a vari livelli, connettendo tecnologie innovative e processi artigianali tradizionali. Ne deriva l’incremento di sistemi di digitalizzazione e di sviluppo gestionale del processo manifatturiero per l’ottimizzazione del time to market o per un migliore utilizzo di materiali, conoscenze e risorse già presenti in azienda. È questo il caso dell’introduzione dei processi di reverse engineering design e di archivio digitale come strumenti di gestione della produzione e di percorsi di progetto. Un ulteriore ambito di interesse è rappresentato dall’introduzione di sistemi robotici nella fi liera di stampo artigianale. È questo un elemento di digitalizzazione che va oltre gli archivi e la gestione della manifattura e rappresenta un vero e proprio supporto alla realizzazione della qualità artigiana, inserendo “assistenti” robotici al servizio del maestro artigiano. La ricerca presenta tre casi pilota del territorio toscano che hanno implementato questo modello operativo. I casi di studio presentano processi di fi liera supportati da sistemi tecnologici o robotici avanzati, conferendo alla maestria artigianale nuovi “gradi di libertà” e integrando nuovi materiali alla tradizionale produzione. Nell’ambito di questa nuova capacità manifatturiera, la cultura del progetto assume un ruolo cruciale nella visione di prodotto e nell’equilibrio tra saper fare storico e processi di innovazione.Italian manufacturing system of interior design products is composed by Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) that hold a signifi cant know-how in high-end production, based on knowledge about different technical and theoretical fi elds and artisanal processes. On one hand, SMEs are linked to “Saper fare” (know-how) related to the history of the production district in which they are located, on the other hand these companies need innovation programs in design and manufacturing. Then, through Manufacturing 4.0 guidelines, some leading companies developed different improvements and signifi cant transformations in different steps of the supply- chain, connecting innovative technology applications and artisanship traditional processesWithin these case histories, we highlight the implementation of digitalization systems and the development in manufacturing management, aiming at optimizing the Time To Market, and the effective use of the materials and know-hows included in the companies. The introduction of reverse engineering design and digital archives within the production chain represents a new tool in production management and design frameworks. Moreover, robotics applications stand as a significant additional support for the craftsmanship-based supply-chain. Innovation through robotics, embedded in the qualitative and technical skills of the craftsmen, represents a step forward the digitalization strategies developed by digital archives and production management. This additional technological support stands as a real effective support to the craftsmanship “Saper Fare” in production of highend refined products, by introducing robotic “assistants” of the artisan. The research focuses on three case histories that implemented digitalization innovation processes, as significant references in Tuscany. The case-studies present different supply-chains supported by digital technology platforms as reverse engineering or robotics, allowing the craftsmen to acquire new “degrees of freedom” – new possibilities in designing and making – and introducing new materials in the traditional production chain. Within this new manufacturing expertise and possibilities, the design processes stand as a centric focus to set strategic visions able to balance in between traditional craftsmanship knowhows and innovation path

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed

    Artisan as a Maker or Artisan as a not Recognized Co-designer?

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    In Italy, craftsmanship has traditionally been associated with Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs); these can be demonstrated in distinctive examples of excellence, but on the other hand of great weaknesses; However, Large companies have begun to understand the craftsmanship values, encompassing the role of artisans in their marketing strategies. The artisan’s role of initiator and co-designer is seldom recognized by major brands, and many big companies actively conceal the contributions made by production excellence within SMEs. Maintaining this non-recognition—within the fashion community, between brand and producer—keeps consumers focused on the intangible value of the brand, rather than the tangible value contributed by traditions and innovations within production

    Variations on the Author

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    “Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship
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