1,721,002 research outputs found
Veiling: Tradition, Identity and Fashion
No full textEmma Tarlo is interviewed about her recent research on Muslim dress practices and Islamic fashion in Britai
"Welcome To History: A Resettlement Colony in the Making"
No full textThis book is not a history of the capital but rather an attempt to trace the ever changing relationships between people, power and place in contemporary urban life
Islamic Cosmopolitanism: The sartorial biographies of three Muslim women in London
No full textThis article focuses on the dress of three prominent Muslim women who have made a significant mark in British public life: the textile artist Rezia Wahid, the stand-up comedienne Shazia Mirza, and the councilor and advisor on Muslim affairs Humera Khan. It focuses, in particular, on their sartorial biographies, tracing the processes, experiences, and reasoning behind their clothing choices. Whilst the wearing of dress that is visibly identifiable as Islamic is often interpreted as a sign of narrow conservatism or political activism, the biographies of these three women suggest something very different. Their sartorial choices and stylistic innovations are the creative products of cosmopolitan lifestyles and attitudes in which concerns about fashion, religion, politics, and aesthetics are interwoven in interesting ways. The article suggests that a focus on sartorial biography enables a shift away from a whole series of conventional dichotomies: religious/secular, traditional/modern, Eastern/Western, Islam/West, towards a broader understanding of the wide range of experiences and concerns that inform the clothing choices of contemporary British Muslim women. Finally, it is suggested that the proliferation of religiously oriented fashions amongst Muslims in Western metropolitan cities is not necessarily a sign of narrow conservatism. It may also signal the emergence of new forms of Islamic cosmopolitanism
Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India
No full textWinner of Coomaraswamy Prize 1998.
In this path-breaking and entertaining study, the author concentrates on the problem of what to wear rather than describing what is worn. She demonstrates how different individuals and groups have used clothes to assert power, challenge authority, define or conceal identity, and instigate or prevent social change at various levels of Indian society from the village to the nation. Three main issues are addressed: questions of national identity as seen through the clothing controversies of the Indian elite in the late colonial period; questions of local identity as experienced by women in rural Gujarat; and the recent development of urban fashion trends which reappropriate regional styles. Emma Tarlo demonstrates the complexity of interaction between these different levels of sartorial change. Thus she combines ethnographic analysis of Gandhi's loincloth and village embroidery with a rich depiction of the importance of clothing in India. The work is amply illustrated with over 100 photographs, advertisements and cartoons
Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion: New Perspectives from Europe and North America
No full textThis edited volume introduces innovative research from international scholars working on Islamic fashion and its critics in a variety of European and American contexts ranging from the Canadian Prairies, Paris, London, Stockholm and Amsterdam to the former socialist countries of Eastern Europe. Taking a global perspective, it asks: what new Muslim dress practices and anxieties are emerging in these different locations? How far are they shaped by local and international politics, migration histories, particular religious traditions, multi-cultural interfaces and transnational links? To what extent do developments in Islamic fashion transcend local differences and encourage new forms of cosmopolitan communication and exchange? How do such developments pose a challenge to conventional understandings of fashion both in the popular media and fashion scholarship?
Containing contributions from the fields of anthropology, fashion studies, media studies, religious studies, history, geography, cultural studies and fashion photography, 'Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion' is an inter-disciplinary volume
Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis
Get PDFThe present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation
counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings
are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that
only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into
account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed
Variations on the Author
Get PDF“Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship
Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis
Get PDFWe provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis
Special Issue: Muslim Fashions
No full textFashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses has been well established in a number of disciplines. Until Fashion Theorys launch in 1997 the dressed body had suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing.
Fashion Theory provides an international and interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena. Its peer-reviewed articles range from foot-binding to fashion advertising
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