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    Raja Redux

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    This article was originally published in International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings. The version of record is available at: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.18645. © 2024 The author(s). Published under a Creative Commons Attribution License (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.Raja Redux reflects an Indian-American heritage by blending tradition and modernity. Inspired by the saree’s pleating and draping with the structured masculinity of menswear oxfords, this design symbolizes balancing cultural identity and new influences. The design pays homage to Rajasthan’s saree draping style (Kaamya, 2019) while incorporating traditional block printing and sheesha embroidery (Ganguly, 2013). Drawing from designers like Siddhartha Tytler, Jugnu Lahore, and Suketdhir, the design fuses fashion, merging cultural craftsmanship with Western silhouettes. This garment celebrates Indian sartorial history while reinterpreting it through contemporary formalwear, honoring heritage while embracing innovation

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed

    Variations on the Author

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    “Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship

    Afterglow

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    Fitting in to the fast-paced evolution of marching band uniforms, Afterglow reimagines the traditional marching band uniform by experimenting with wearable technology, new silhouettes, and garment sustainability to create a theatrical band uniform inspired by the afterglow of the sunset. The sunset begins with pink hues infiltrating the light blue sky, and as the sun reaches the horizon, brilliant purples, pinks, yellows, and oranges glide across the sky. A frenzy of overlapping and intermingling hues soon takes over before giving way to a pink afterglow remaining in the dark sky. The sunset symbolizes the transition from day to night, revitalizing those who take the time to observe it. This look showcases the climax of the sunset, where the sun reaches the horizon and the bright colors take hold of the sky. Worn by female marchers, this uniform epitomizes the current innovation and theatrics in marching band shows.</p

    Using Technology to Improve Student Experience with Critique

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    Technology has radically changed the way educators can exchange information and interact with students. While higher education teaching systems have adapted to changes in technological innovation, the fashion design studio, organized in traditional Beaux- Arts format, remains constant in its face-to-face, active-learning experience approach. An emerging teaching format is blended learning, that involves both traditional face-to-face instruction, as well as communication via the Internet. If well-guided, an online environment used in conjunction with an existing studio class provides an alternative medium for improving communication, supporting creative collaboration and open interaction.</p

    Criteria Decision Matrix Applied to Pedagogy: A Pilot Study for Fashion Art Studio

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    Two different instructors with substantial fashion industry experiences worked together in Spring 2014 to re-design the syllabus of the Fashion Art Studio, a required foundation course for fashion merchandising major. The aim was to eliminate projects and class work that were purely art based and did not have a current fashion merchandising industry application while still fulfilling the same course learning goals. A sustainability approach was also thought out for re-purposing the physical outcome of the assignments and having most of them feed into another project or ending into a portfolio page. The purpose of this paper is to present our common strategies and outcomes from the pilot study and share our findings.</p

    Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis

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    We provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis

    Dispelling the Myths Behind First-author Citation Counts

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    We conducted a full-scale evaluative citation analysis study of scholars in the XML research field to explore just how different from each other author rankings resulting from different citation counting methods actually are, and to demonstrate the capability of emerging data and tools on the Web in supporting more realistic citation counting methods. Our results contest some common arguments for the continued use of first-author citation counts in the evaluation of scholars, such as high correlations between author rankings by first-author citation counts and other citation counting methods, and high costs of using more realistic citation counting methods that are not well-supported by the ISI databases. It is argued that increasingly available digital full text research papers make it possible for citation analysis studies to go beyond what the ISI databases have directly supported and to employ more sophisticated methods

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