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    Gianfranco Marrone, Gustoso e saporito. Introduzione al discorso gastronomico, Milano, Bompiani, 2022, 350 p.

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    Italian semiologist Gianfranco Marrone has just published a new book on the semiotics of gastronomy. The book, in Italian, is part of the ‘Campo Aperto’ series edited by Stefano Bartezzaghi for the publisher Bompiani. Rather than choosing a predictable title such as ‘Semiotics of Gastronomy’, the author has opted for a title defined in the pages of the book as ‘referential’.Le nouvel ouvrage du sémiologue italien Gianfranco Marrone sur la sémiotique de la gastronomie vient d’être publié. Le livre, en italien, fait partie de la série « Campo Aperto » dirigée par Stefano Bartezzaghi pour l’éditeur Bompiani. Plutôt que de choisir un titre prévisible tel que « Sémiotique de la gastronomie », l’auteur a opté pour un titre défini dans les pages du livre comme « référentiel »

    Che cos’è una minestra? Il sistema delle minestre siciliane

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    Questo lavoro propone l’analisi e un tentativo di definizione, non esaustiva, di uno dei piatti più diffusi, e al tempo stesso più difficili da collocare nella gastronomia siciliana, la “minestra”. La pietanza rappresenta, sia da un punto di vista semiotico e lessicale, sia da un punto di vista storico, una specificità delle cucine italiane che non sembra avere analoghi, se non in sistemi alimentari culturalmente limitrofi come quello provenzale. La parola minestra indica, al tempo stesso, una singola pietanza e una famiglia di preparazioni diverse, i cui elementi di affinità non sono sempre chiari. È difficile individuare una forma stabile della minestra, quanto sul piano dell’espressione alimentare, quanto su quello dei contenuti discorsivi e narrativi. Risulta ancora non del tutto generalizzabile la comune divaricazione tra le minestre di pasta e le paste asciutte. Come vedremo, basandoci su un corpus di libri di cucina principalmente siciliana, è tuttavia possibile rintracciare alcune ricette “modello” – come la tipica “minestra coi tenerumi” – che possiamo porre al centro di un ipotetico “sistema delle minestre” per via di alcuni tratti espressivi, quali le consistenze, e narrativi, quali la gestione delle stesse tramite motivi di narrazione culinaria, più ricorrenti di altri tra le varie minestre esaminate.This work proposes the analysis and an attempt at a non-exhaustive definition of one of the most popular dishes, and at the same time the most difficult to place in Sicilian gastronomy, the "soup". The dish represents, both from a semiotic and lexical point of view, and from a historical point of view, a specificity of Italian cuisine that does not seem to have analogues, if not in culturally neighboring food systems such as the Provençal one. The word soup indicates, at the same time, a single dish and a family of different preparations, whose elements of affinity are not always clear. It is difficult to identify a stable form of soup, both in terms of food expression and in terms of discursive and narrative content. The common divergence between pasta soups and dry pasta is still not completely generalizable. As we will see, based on a corpus of mainly Sicilian cookbooks, it is however possible to trace some "model" recipes - such as the typical "soup with tenerumi" - which we can place at the center of a hypothetical "soup system" due to some expressive traits, such as textures, and narrative traits, such as their management through culinary narrative motifs, more recurrent than others among the various soups examined

    Il valore delle differenze. Tipicità e terroir nella cultura alimentare

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    DOP, IGP, tipico, tradizionale, a chilometro zero, terroir, identità: negli ultimi decenni il cibo è entrato prepotentemente nelle nostre vite come fenomeno geografico e sociale, ancor prima che alimentare. Questo lavoro propone un’analisi semiotica del fenomeno attraverso quattro casi emblematici di costruzione della tipicità alimentare: quello del sistema dei marchi di qualità europei DOP, IGP e STG e del problema dell’origine; quello di un relais in Sicilia dove l’esperienza di permanenza è incentrata sull’apprendimento della cucina tradizionale; quello del linguaggio dei ristoranti “stellati” e della loro evoluzione – ormai d’obbligo – in templi dell’alta cucina locale; quello relativo alla vicenda italiana americana e il contributo dei ristoranti italiani a New York City nella definizione di stereotipi culturali complessi e in conflitto reciproco. Da nuovo genius loci, il cibo tipico trasforma i luoghi in origine o destinazione, e i loro abitanti in eredi e popolazione. È la cifra contemporanea del nostro essere autoctoni.PDO, PGI, local, typical, traditional, farm to fork: in recent decades, food has invaded our lives as a geographical and social trend, more than nutritional. This work proposes a semiotic study of the phenomenon through four emblematic case analysis: that of the system of European PDO, PGI and TSG quality marks and the problem of origin; that of a relais in Sicily where the experience of staying is centered on traditional cuisine learning; that of the language of "Michelin" restaurants and their recent evolution into temples of local haute cuisine; that relating to the Italian American food and the role of Italian restaurants in New York City in the definition of geographical and cultural stereotypes. As a new genius loci, typical food transforms places into origin or destination, and their inhabitants into heirs and heritage communities

    European Politics of Food Origin. A Semiotic Analysis of Geographical Indications

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    This chapter investigates the relationship between food products and origin places within the European Union food policies. In the 1990s, the EU established a Geographical Indication (GI) system, constituted of a set of food quality brands and a legal framework for food, wine and spirits. This system, defined as a sui generis model by insiders, entails a strong EU government participation in the typical food symbolic and material modelling. The sui generis model establishes a government monopoly on the place-based labels registration and institutes an atypical kind of intellectual property based on geographic marks. By proposing a semiotic approach toward the analysis of European Geographical Indications, this contribution aims at understanding their structural functioning and their disciplinary implications. The chapter carries out a semiotic analysis of two food regulations: the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO, and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI. These two case studies highlight how EU GIs conduct a complex food product and territorial standardization, building two separate legal prototypes which are linked by a narrative of origin. Moreover, the semiotic analysis proposed in this chapter pushes to consider the relationship between typical foods and their origin place in opposite terms: the territory—also called terroir, can be considered as a meaning effect of the product itself. The article concludes by underscoring the cultural and political importance of local food production discipline and legal regulation in community identity building process

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed

    Variations on the Author

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    “Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship

    Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis

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    We provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis

    Dispelling the Myths Behind First-author Citation Counts

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    We conducted a full-scale evaluative citation analysis study of scholars in the XML research field to explore just how different from each other author rankings resulting from different citation counting methods actually are, and to demonstrate the capability of emerging data and tools on the Web in supporting more realistic citation counting methods. Our results contest some common arguments for the continued use of first-author citation counts in the evaluation of scholars, such as high correlations between author rankings by first-author citation counts and other citation counting methods, and high costs of using more realistic citation counting methods that are not well-supported by the ISI databases. It is argued that increasingly available digital full text research papers make it possible for citation analysis studies to go beyond what the ISI databases have directly supported and to employ more sophisticated methods

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