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    Prefazione

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    From product to brand: towards understanding counterfeiting in the luxury fashion accessory sector

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    This paper presents a preliminary investigation into the counterfeiting phenomenon within the handbag and leather goods sector, by examining the case-studies of the two most well-known, and counterfeited, international luxury fashion brands: Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Through an historical analysis and a mix of marketing and economic history perspectives this paper tries to identify the market evolutions and the competitive dynamics within the luxury fashion industry, that have favoured the development of the counterfeit phenomenon in the last decades. The investigation points out how the increasing focus on the brand image and the intangible values of fashion products have stimulated the growth of counterfeiting. The paper is divided into three sections. The first section describes the main features of the market evolutions of the luxury brands during the last decades, paying a special attention to the demand side aspects. The second section deals with the luxury business and the analysis of the Gucci and Louis Vuitton firms’ evolution, focusing on the transformation of the product/brand relationship and product lines and the changes in distribution systems and advertising campaigns over the time. The last section presents concluding remarks in respect of the findings

    The emergence of Italy as a fashion country: Nation branding and collective meaning creation at Florence's fashion shows (1951-1965)

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    We analyse the emergence of Italy as a fashion country with a reconstruction of the history and impact of the collective fashion shows that Giovanni Battista Giorgini organised in Florence in 1951-65. Our cultural analysis highlights the role events play in the mobilisation of local actors and the creation of nation brands, which we conceive as ongoing narrations built on a country’s material and symbolic resources that differentiate its image in valuable ways for export markets. Despite their decline, the Florentine shows created an intangible asset that facilitated the ascent of Milan as Italy’s fashion capital in the 1970s

    Società e gruppi nei settori tessile e abbigliamento dal 1979 al 2009

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    Il presente lavoro analizza la performance dei settori “leggeri” italiani negli ultimi trentanni dal 1979 al 2009, al fine di verificare alcune ipotesi storiografiche alternative sul declino dell’industria italiana o sulla sua vitalità, almeno per alcuni settori. La prima tesi imputa il declino a settori labour intensive e a tecnologie “mature” come quelli del tessile e abbigliamento. La tesi contrapposta ritiene invece che una parte delle manifatturiere “leggere” abbia contribuito alla crescita e all’incremento delle quote di export. Il lavoro si basa su dati e su metodi diversi da quelli solitamente utilizzati per sostenere l’una o l’altra tesi. L’indagine è condotta sui bilanci di 11 società grandi e medio-grandi in confronto agli andamenti di settore. Emerge una realtà molto variegata, con ampie divergenze tendenziali e dinamiche concorrenziali fortemente influenzate da riorganizzazioni di gruppo. Gruppi e conglomerati hanno permesso una riallocazione e diversificazione delle risorse produttive, e di quelle finanziarie infra e extra-gruppo, realizzando una maggiore flessibilità organizzativa con risultati eterogeni

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed
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