1,720,985 research outputs found
Creating a Children's Ballet Costume Collection for Kamilla LTD
No full textDiplomitöö põhiliseks eesmärgiks oli luua uus julge ja eripärane kollektsioon väikestele balleriinidele esinemiste jaoks. Kõigepealt oli uuritud, millised olid eelistused ja tihti esinevad probleemid balletirõivaste juures. Selleks olid intervjueeritud erinevate Tallinna ballettikoolide treenerid. Kollektsioon oli läbi arutatud Kamilla OÜ juhiga ning oli määratud kollektsiooni põhikangas. Autori poolt olid pakutud mitu erinevat varianti, millest olid valitud 4 trikood ja 3 seelikud. Väikese kollektsiooni eripäraks on esiteks erk põhivärv ja teiseks, on kasutatud sublimaattrükki, mis annab kostüümidele individuaalse lähenemise rõivaste dekoreerimisel.This diploma summary shortly describes the main aspects of the thesis, assigned tasks and solutions towards achieving its goals. The chapter also gives an overview of the obtained work. The topic of the presented diploma is „Children ballet collection for Kamilla Ltd“. The main purpose of this diploma is try to be an independed fashion designer and constructor in the light industry. One of the objectives is to create a new collection for a specified scope thus demonstrating the diploma author’s both artistic and technical skills. As a result of the production process there were made garment samples. There were also discovered new opportunities in the light industry field. The purpose of the carried out activities is to improve the existing Kamilla Ltd pattern palette and to develop new technologies in producing ballet clothes, taking into account the peculiarities of its garments. There has been conducted a large amount of work: from collecting specific information on the ballet clothing aspects- its rules and needs, to developing new technologies for the production of new models. The characteristic feature of this collection the product models original design and the use of sublimation fabric print on some parts of the details. The collection consists of seven different garments: four leotards and three skirts- formed in four sets. For each one of the collection sets there has been created a unique design for the sublimation pattern. As a result there was created an interesting collection for children’s ballet performances. To obtain the full overview of the collection preparation the work is carried out by the author in areas, such as collection design and construction, technical sphere, economic sphere and the marketing sphere. The reader can see the produced collection in the photo collage, which is included in the attachement 3 at the end of the diploma thesis
Creating Knitwear for Horveit OÜ. Spring/Summer 2023
No full textAntud lõputöö tulemuseks on kolm kootud toodet – kampsun, püksid ja kleit. Kampsunit saab kombineerida pükstega või kanda koos kleidiga. Kõik kolm toodet on mustriga.
Analüüs oli esimene samm kollektsiooni loomisel. Oli tehtud brändi ja selle sortimendi analüüs, tuvastatud tugevused ja nõrkused. Peale seda tehti moejoonised ja moejooniste põhjal tehti tehnilisi jooniseid ja kirjeldusi.
Lõputöö autor tehniliste jooniste põhjal konstrueeris baaslõikeid kasutades inglise konstrueerimissüsteemi. Samuti töö käigus koostati figuuri mõõdutabeli suurustega S kuni XL, et edaspidi sellest juhinduda. Kõik baaslõiked on konstrueeritud S suuruses toodetele. Kampsuni baaslõike tehti mitu suurust suurem kui kleit, et kampsun oleks avar, kuid valmistoode ikka sobib S suurusele.
Üks olulisemaid protsesse töös oli kindlaks teha, millist kudumise tüüpi toodete jaoks kasutada ja kuidas töödelda mustri pahemat poolt. Kampsunil ja pükstel on üks ja sama kudumisviis, aga kleidi puhul otsustati, et kudumine peab erineda. Kleidi sobiv kudumine saavutati alles pärast paari proovi. Oluline oli see, et kleidi soonik kudumine hästi välja näeks ja et triibud ei oleks liiga laiad ega liiga kitsad. Kampsuni sinise ülaosa kudumisel pidi ka mitu katset tegema. Esialgu kooti kampsuni ülaosa kahest lõngast, ülejäänud kampsun ega kolmest. Seetõttu oli tiheduse erinevus märgatav ja see mõjus toode kvaliteedi. Kogu toode otsustati kududa kolmest lõngast. Lõngaks tuli puuvilla ja lina segu, mis valiti kevad-suvisest hooajast lähtuvalt.
Baaslõigete põhjal tehti moekohased lõiked ning seejärel kooti esimesed näidistooted. Esimeste provide põhjal tehti lõigetel kohandusi. Samuti tuvastati problem, et kangas venib oma raskuse all, mistõttu osutusid sügavaks käeaugukaared ja istmikukaar. Neid tuli vähendada.
Paljundamiseks valiti koordinaatmeetod. Lekaalide paljundamine tehti mõõdutabeli alusel, kus rinna-, vöö- ja puusaümbermõõtude vahe suurusest suuruseni on 8,0cm. Kuna silmkoeline kangas hästi venib, võib suuruste vahe olla suurem, kui tavalisest kangast valmistatud toodetel.
Raskusi olid tekkinud ka osas, kus esitatakse läbilõikejooniste skeemid. Pidi kasutada lisaabi ma materjale, et veenduda, et kaheniidiline keteldusmasin teeb kaheniidilist ahelpistet 401.
Töö lõpuosas esitas autor andmed toote müügihinda arvutamiseks koguselises väärtuses. Ettevõtte otsustas, et toodete omahind on konfidentsiaalne info ja võib esitada ainult müüguhinda. Kampsuni müügihind on 59€, pükste müüguhind on 52€ ja kleidi müüguhind on 95€. Vaatamata sellele, et kleidi lõnga kulu on umbes sama suur kui kampsunil, on kleidi müügihind palju kõrgem. See on tingitud sellest, et kleit on Half-Fashioned toode ja peaaegu kogu kleit on kokku õmmeldud keteldusmasinal ning see on üsna töömahukas ja kulukas protsess. Kampsun on õmmeldud lihtühendusõmblusmasinal ja äärestusmasinal. Samuti kleit on kootud kohe lõikesse. See ka vajab eraldi programmi tegemist.
Vaatamata mõningatele töö käigus tekkinud takistustele, said tooted valmis ja neid saab edaspidi tootmises kasutada. Samuti saab tooteid kududa villasest lõngast ja saada tooteid juba külmemaks hooajaks.The result of this thesis is three knitted products – a sweater, trousers and a dress. The sweater can be worn with trousers or with a dress. All three products have a pattern.
Analysis was the first step in creating a knitted collection. An analysis of the brand and its assortment was done, strengths and weaknesses were identified. After that, fashion drawings were made and then technical drawings and technical descriptions were made based on the fashion drawings.
The basic constructions based on the technical drawings have been done according to English system. In addition, a size chart with sizes S to XL was made in order to be guided by in the future work. All basic constructions are designed for S size products. The basic construstion of the sweater was made several sizes larger than the dress to make the sweater loose, but the finished product still fits size S.
One of the most important processes in the work was to determine what kind of knitting technique to use for the products and for the pattern. The sweater and trousers have the same knitting technique, but for the dress it was decided that the technique must be different. The proper dress knitting was achieved only after a few trials. It was important that the ribbing of the dress looked good and that the stripes were neither too wide nor too narrow. When knitting the blue part of the sweater, several attempts were also made. Initially, the top part of the sweater was knitted from two yarns, the rest of the sweater from three yarns. Therefore, the difference in density was noticeable and it affected the quality of the product. It was decided to knit the whole product from three yarns. The yarn was a mixture of cotton and linen, which was chosen based on the spring-summer season.
Fashionable cuts were modeled according to the base constructions, and then the first sample products were knitted. After the first fitting, adjustments were made to the cuts. The problem was also identified that the fabric stretches under its own weight, so that is why the armhole and seat seam turned out to be deep. They had to be reduced.
The coordinate method was chosen for sewing patterns grading. Sewing patterns grading was made by using a size chart, where the difference in chest, waist and hip circumferences from size to size is 8.0cm. The knitted fabric stretches well, so the difference in sizes may be larger than for products made of other fabric.
There were also difficulties in the part where the seam sectional drawings are presented. The author of this thesis encountered a linking machine for the first time. It was necessary to seek additional help to be sure what type of stitch the machine does. Learned that a double thread linking machine makes double thread chain stitch 401.
In the final part of the work, the author presented the data for calculating the product's selling price in quantitative value. The company decided that the cost price of the products is confidential information and can only provide the selling price. The selling price of the sweater is 59€, the selling price of the trousers is 52€ and the selling price of the dress is 95€. Despite the fact that the yarn consumption for the dress is about the same as for the sweater, the sale price of the dress is much higher. This is because the dress is a Half-Fashioned product and almost the entire dress is sewn together on a linking machine, which is quite a labour-intensive and expensive process. The sweater is sewn on a lockstitch sewing machine and an overlock. In addition, the dress is knitted straightaway according to sewing pattern. This also requires a special program.
Despite some obstacles during the work, the products were completed and can be used in production in the future. The products can also be knitted from woolen yarn and get them already for the colder season
Creating a Lingerie Collection for Marc & André Company
No full textLõputöö tulemuseks on ettevõttele Marc&André õmmeldud valmis kolm põhitoodet: rinnahoidja, pesupüksid ja hommikumantel, ning lisaks sai valmistatud kaks kollektsiooni täiendavad toodet: öösärk ja lühikesed püksid, millele pole tehtud tehniline dokumentatsioon. Kõik tooted saab ka koos kanda.
Pesu kollektsiooni loomisel autor lähtus ettevõtte konsteptsioonist ja selle eelistustest. Esietapiks on materjalide ja aksessuaaride valik. Pärast materjalide valimist skanneeritakse pitsi spetsiaalse skänneri kaudu ja luuakse fail pitsi mustriga Adobe Illustrator arvutiprogrammis. Peale mustri valmimist joonistatakse toodete tehnilised joonised.
Konstrueerimis süsteemid olid võetud erinevad. M. Müller & Sohn süsteemi järgi oli modelleeritud pesupüksid suuruses 40. Winifred Aldrich`i inglise süsteemiga oli tehtud hommikumantel suuruses 14, mis vastab Euroopa suurusele 40. Ja vene konstrueerimis süsteemi järgi valmistati rinnahoidja, kasutades ettevõtte suuruste tabelit. Rinnahahoidja on valmistatud suurusega 75C.
Rinnahoidja ja pesupükste moekohased lõiked olid modelleeritud proovide käigus tehnoloogi, konstruktori, õmbleja ja tootejuhi abiga. Ülejäänud toodete lekaalid vaadati üle ja proovideta õmmeldi valmis.
Töös oli kõige olulisem tuua esile naise keha ilu. Suurt tähelepanu pöörati rinnahoidja konstrueerimisele. Enne toote õmblemist oli tehtud mitu prototüüpi, et vaadata vormi ja istuvust, kus tehti kommentaare.
Lekaalid tehti manuaalselt ja kui kõik vead olid parandatud, digiteeriti neid Lectra Modaris konstrueerimis arvutiprogrammis. Arvutis juba pannakse suuruste järgud ja lekaalid kodeeritakse õigete materjalidega, kust edasi saab viia toote tootmisesse.
Tehnilise paigutuse valmistamiseks luuakse andmete fail programmis Marker Manager, kust leiab informatsioon paigutuse, ladestuse ja kangakulu kotha. Peale andmete faili loomist, sisestatakse seda paigutus programmi Marker Making. Selle programmi abil tehakse paigutusjoonised koos järgmise informatsiooniga: paigutatud suurused, materjali kasutatav laius, paigutuse pikkus ja effektiivsus.
Paigutuse abil arvutatakse toodete oma- ja müügihinnad. Informatsioon toote omahinna arvutamisest on konfidentsiaalne, mille tõõtu omahinna arvutamine on esitatud materjalide kogulises väärtuses.
Töö käigus esinenud vead said likvideeritud, ning lekaale saab edaspidi tootmises kasutada. Iga toote kohta on koostatud tootekaart selle tehnilise joonise- ja kirjelduse, kasutatavate materjalide ja hooldusjuhistega.The purpose of the graduation thesis Creating a lingerie collection for Marc & André company is to make an underwear collection based on the company's requirements, specifics and preferences. The collection consists of three main products: a bra, briefs and a dressing gown, and two additional products: a top and shorts for which technical documentation has not been made. All products can also be worn together.
The thesis is divided into four chapters, where all stages of production are described. The first chapter presents the introduction of the company, the stages of creating the collection from scanning the materials to the completion of the technical drawings of the products, tables with the materials used and a technical description of the products.
When creating the lingerie collection, the author was based on the company's concept and its preferences. The first step is the selection of materials and accessories. After selecting the materials, the lace is scanned through a special scanner and a file with the lace pattern is created in the Adobe Illustrator program. After the pattern is completed, the technical drawings of the products are drawn.
The second chapter is the structural part, which describes the process of making basic constructions and the necessary measurements and calculations. The first part of the chapter talks about the methods chosen for construction. The second part gives an overview of the process of making fashionable cuts. Fashionable cuts are shown as painted details on top of the basic constructions.
For all products different construction methodologies were used. Basic briefs construction was made by using the German M. Müller & Sohn system. The briefs size is 40. Winifred Aldrich's English system was used to make a dressing gown in size 14, which corresponds to European size 40. Basic bra construction has been done according to the Russian system using company`s size charts. The bra is made in size 75C.
The fashionable cuts of the bra and briefs were modeled during fittings with the help of a technologist, designer, seamstress and product manager. The patterns of the remaining products were reviewed and finished sewn without samples.
The most important thing in the thesis was to highlight the beauty of the woman's body. Great attention was paid to the construction of the bra. Before the product was sewn, several prototypes were made to look at the form and fit.
The third chapter describes the process of pattern making and digitization using different computer programs. The patterns were made manually and when all errors were corrected, they were digitized in the Lectra Modaris computer program. To prepare the technical layout, a data file is created in the Marker Manager program, where you can find information about layout, fabric consumption and efficiency of layout. After the data file is created, the layout is entered into the Marker Making program which is used to calculate the selling prices of the products.
The last chapter is dedicated to the price calculations of the collection products. Information about the calculation of the self-cost price of the product is confidential, which means that the calculation is presented in quantitative value. The selling price of a bra is 89,95 euro, the selling price of briefs is 39,95 euro and the selling price of the dressing gown is 219,95 euro.
The mistakes occurred during the working process were corrected, and the patterns can be used in production in the future. A product card with its technical drawing and description, used materials and maintenance instructions has been prepared for each product
Collection with Combinable Details for Clothing Rental
No full textLõputöö tulemus on valmisõmmeldud kleit koos lisanditega rentimiseks ateljeest. Kleit on äravõetavate varrukate ja kraega. Valmis on saanud seelik, mida saab kanda kleidi ja muude toodetega.
Kollektsiooni loomiseks on kasutatud autori välja töötatud süsteemi, mis hõlmab detailide äravõtmist. Ka vöö kinnitamise osa on autori looming, et vöö peale saaks siduda lipsu. Arvestatud oli ka ateljee soovi korrigeerida riideesemeid kiiresti ja mugavalt.
Põhilekaalid on konstrueeritud M. Müller & Sohni süsteemi põhjal. Kleit konstrueeriti baassuuruses 36 ja seelik valmis suurusele 40. Seelik on ühes suuruses.
Lekaalide modelleerimine toimus lekaalide väljatöötamisel äravõetavate detailide mahutamiseks. Seelikut modelleeriti väljalõikamise ajal moekohase seeliku saavutamiseks.
Kõige tähtsam oli konstrueerida äravõetavad detailid. Baaskleit pidi olema suuremate õmblusvarudega, et korrigeerida toode kiiresti kliendi keha järgi.
Lekaalid on tehtud käsitsi, sest ateljeel pole praegu võimalust programmiga töötada. Lekaali baassuurus viidi üle Lectra Modarise programmi kirjaliku töö koostamise jaoks.
Kõik arvutused materjalide puhul tehti ainult kirjaliku töö vormistamiseks, sest ateljee ei vaja nii täpseid andmeid. Toote omahinna arvutamine on konfidentsiaalne, mille tõttu esitati arvutused materjalide koguväärtuses. Toote omahinnal ei ole suurt tähtsust, sest toode on valmistatud rentimiseks.
Töös esinenud vead likvideeriti ja lekaale saab edaspidi kasutada. Toote kohta on valmistatud tootekaart täistoote komplektist ja materjalid toodete valmistamiseks.The result of the thesis is a completed dress with accessories, designed for atelier rental. The dress features detachable sleeves and a collar. Additionally, a skirt has been created that can be worn with the dress or with other garments.
For creating the collection, a system of detachable details designed by the author was developed. The fastening system for the belt was also an original creation by the author, allowing for a decorative bow to be tied on top. The preference of atelier for quick and easy adjustments was also taken into account.
The base patterns were constructed according to the M. Müller & Sohn system. The dress was constructed in a base size of 36, while the skirt was made in size 40. The skirt is one of a kind, thus was not graded further.
Pattern modeling involved adapting the patterns to accommodate detachable details. Modeling of the skirt was conducted during the cutting procedure.
The most important aspect of the work was constructing the detachable details. The base dress had to involve larger seam allowances for quick adjustments to fit the client’s body.
The patterns were originally created manually, as the atelier currently lacks the capability to use software for this purpose. The base size pattern was transferred and graded in the Lectra Modaris program for documentation purposes.
All material calculations were done solely for the thesis, as such precise data is not required by the atelier. The cost calculation remains confidential, thus presented based on the material costs and quantities. The cost of production is not highly significant since the product is intended for rental purposes.
Errors encountered during the process were resolved, and the patterns can be reused in the future. A specification sheet has been created, detailing the complete product set and materials used for production
Development of the Competition Uniform for the Women's Volleyball Team in the Company 4 Teams OÜ
No full textKäesoleva lõputöö tulemusena loodi kolm toodet koostöös ettevõttega 4Teams OÜ. Antud toodeteks on võrkpallisärk Silvia, võrkpallipüksid Petra ning spordirinnahoidja Rahe.
Mudelite loomisel mängisid suurt rolli Pärnu võrkpallinaiskonna liikmed, kelle soove ja vajadusi võeti antud tootearendusel arvesse. Lõplikute mudelite valikul sai määravaks võrkpallinaiskonna arvamus toodete testimisel. Tooteid on võimalik kasutada ka teistel spordialadel.
Mudel „Silvia“ on raglaanvarrukaga võrkpallisärk, millel on võrkkangast küljedetailid suuremaks hingamiseks. Mudel „Petra“ on voodriga võrkpallipüksid - tagamaks, et pinge all täidaks toode oma funktsiooni ja et kangas ei kumaks läbi. Mudel „Rahe“ on spordirinnahoidja millel on tagaosa võrkkangast, et tagada suuremahuline hingamine.
Lõputöös on välja toodud ettevõtte tutvustus ning toodete loomise protsess. Lõputöö sisaldab ka tehnilisi jooniseid ja kirjeldusi. Toodetele loodi läbilõikejoonised, töötlemisjärjekorrad ja on välja toodud, milliseid masinaid on antud toodete töötlemisel kasutatud.
Mudelid konstrueeriti suurusele 36. Lõiked on konstrueeritud nii M. Müller & Sohn kui ka Winifred Aldrichi põhilõigete konstrueerimissüsteemide järgi. Mudelite arendamisel lähtuti Pärnu võrkpallinaiskonnalt saadud informatsioonist. Põhilõigetele tehti moekohased muudatused ning õmmeldi näidised. Vastavalt toodete istuvusele ja funktsionaalsusele tehti muudatusi, mis kinnitati peale testimist. Mudelitele loodi tehniline paljundus suurustes 32 kuni 44. Toodete lekaalid loodi programmis Clo3D.
Kangastevalikul lähtuti olemasolevatest kangastest. Suur osa ettevõttest põhineb sublimatsioontoodetel, seega saab iga klient olla oma toote kujundajaks. Sublimatsioontrükk on viimastel aastatel palju populaarsust kogunud ning kangad mida antud toodetel kasutatakse on väga kvaliteetsed.
Hinnakujundamise peatükis selgitati hinnakujunemise põhimõtteid, kuid konkreetset informatsiooni ei avalikustata ettevõtte konfidentsiaalsuse huvides.The aim of this thesis is the Development of the Competition Uniform for the Women’s Volleyball Team in the Company 4 Teams OÜ. The subject of this thesis was chosen by the author and by the company’s management, to fill the need for women’s volleyball uniforms.
The collection of volleyball wear consists three models – volleyball shirt „Silvia“, volleyball shorts „Petra“ and a sports bra „Rahe“. Data for this thesis was gathered with the help of Pärnu Women’s Volleyball Team. The final products were selected by the company’s management after they were tested by Pärnu Women’s Volleyball Team.
For start, the thesis contains the introduction of the company. The main focus of the company is the production of ball games clothing. The technical drawings and technical specifications are also presented. Furthermore, the cross-sectional drawings and the order of processing the proudcts were indicated, also the machines used in the process.
For the volleyball shirt „Silvia“ and for the sports bra „Rahe“ the used construction system was M. Müller & Sohn. The base size of the products is 36. The products were graded into sizes 32-44, using the Clo3D program. The patterns were corrected after the fit testing by the women’s volleyball team.
The selection of fabrics was based on existing fabrics. Most of the company is based on sublimation printing, so the fabrics used in these products are of very high quality.
Pricing principles were explained, but the specific information is not disclosed for the sake of company confidentiality.
The results suggest that the products developed in the thesis are versatile, so they can also be used in other suitable sports
Creating a costume
No full textAntud diplomitöös on ühendatud kõik õpitu ning reaalset huvi pakkuv tegevusvaldkond. Valitud ettevõte hindab ainulaadsust ja julgustab olla loominguline. Ühtepidi võib täieliku loomevabaduse andmine olla riskirohke lähenemine, kuid seda kõike läbi tehes tunnetati, et see andis rohkem kui ükskõik mis teine kindlate piiridega, nõudmistega ülesanne seda teha võiks.
Loominguline vabadus annab võimaluse astuda suhtlusesse iseendaga. Luua looming, millel on sõnum, käib suuresti läbi looja tunnetuse, looja suhte maailmaga. Läbi antud diplomitöö jõuti järeldusele, kui suur kõlapind ja mõju võib olla rõiva, kostüümi maailmal. Kõik, mis parasjagu ühiskonnas toimub saab üle kanda kangale, lõigetele ja üleüldisele visuaalsele pildile.
Kuna ettevõttele loodavad kostüümid leiavad kasutust mitmeteks aastateks, lahendab see üle tootmise probleemi. Leiti, et lõpuks on kõik nii nagu asjadest mõeldakse ja kui kõik on läbimõeldud, on ka ilusate, efektsete kangaste, furnituuride kasutus lubatud. Teadlikult tegutsemine loob teadlikke väljundeid.
Kuidas aga päästa maailma? Meil kõigil on oma eesmärk siin elus täita ning oskus midagi luua on inimese võimalus end sõnadeta väljendada. Süvenes uskumus, et asjade ja tegevuste mõtestatus võib olla suures pildis üks peamisi maailma päästmise võimalusi.
Leiti, et on aeg murda välja kindlatest arusaamadest ning maailma tabanud seisak andis mõista kuidas millelegi ei saa kindel olla ning maailm on pidevas muutumises. On aeg vabaneda süsteemi ning mõttemustritest, mis enam seda maailma ei toeta ja on aeg hakata looma loomise, mitte tegemise pärast.In this final thesis author connected gained knowledge with the world that offers deep interest. The collaborative company values uniqueness and encourages to be creative. In a way giving a complete creative freedom may be risky but going through the process it gave the author more than any other task with firm demands could have given her.
Creative freedom gives a possibility to step into a conversation with yourself. To create something that has a message comes through the way the creator sees and feels the world. Through this final thesis a realization was made that how big of an impact can one clothing or costume have. Everything that is happening in the world can be translated onto fabric, patterns and onto overall visual picture.
Costumes that are produced for given company find use for several years solving the overproducing problem. In the end everything is how we think and if all is well thought through, using beautiful, effective fabrics, embellishments is allowed. Conscious action produces conscious outlets.
How to save a world? We all have our own purpose in this life and to have an ability to create something is a way to express yourself without words. To give a meaning to everything that you do is one of the biggest way to save the world.
It is time to brake free from firm beliefs and worldwide quarantine showed us how you can not be certain on anything and that the world is in a constant change. It is time to free ourselves from old system and thinking patterns that don’t serve this world anymmore and it is time to start creating for creation not for doing purposes
Development of Women's Outerwear for Amanjeda Group OÜ
No full textDiplomitöö eesmärgiks oli naiste ülerõivaste arendus ettevõttele Amanjeda Group OÜ. Mudelid said kavandatud koos ettevõtte disaneri Katrin Kuldmaga. Mudelid on loodud Amanjeda sügis/talv 2018 kollektsiooni jaoks. Esimene mudeli näol on tegu tepitud sulejopega ICY ning teise mudeli puhul on tegu keep-mantliga HELSINKI. Käesolev töö jagunes kuueks peatükiks, mis jagunesid omakorda alapeatükkideks. Peatükid on järjestatud vastavalt toodete valmistamise järjekorras. Esimeses peatükis tutvustati lühidalt ettevõtet, mille tarbeks mudelid valmistati. Esitati mudelite tööjoonised ning tehnilised kirjeldused. Seejärel kirjeldati mudelite valmistamiseks valitud õmblusmaterjale ja furnituure. Diplomitöö teine peatükk puudutab mudelite põhi- ja moekohaste lõigete valmistamist. Kirjeldati põhilõigete valmistamise metoodikat ning soovitud moekohaste lõigete saavutamist. Kolmandas peatükis kirjeldati lekaalide valmistamist. Koostati lekaalide loetelu ning valmistati mõlema mudeli baassuurustele lekaalid. Samuti sai tutvuda tehnilise paljundusega. Diplomitöö neljandas peatükis esitati mudelite sõlmede tehnoloogiline töötlemine läbilõike jooniste näol. Samuti toodi välja tehnoloogilised iseärasused. Viiendas peatükis loodi mudelite baassuurustele paigutusjoonised ning lühidalt kirjeldati omahinna kujunemist. Peatükis arvutati kui suur on esiknäidise ja ka kõikide suuruste koos valmistamiseks kangakulu. Käesoleva töö viimasest peatükist on võimalik leida mudelite tootekaardid. Tootekaartidele märgiti vajalik info toote valmistamiseks. Loetleti üles kõik toote valmistamiseks valitud materjalid ja furnituurid. Keerukamatest tehnoloogilistest sõlmedest on tootekaardil ka läbilõikejoonised. Lõputöö koostamisel kasutati Lectra programme Modaris V7R2, Kaledo Style V4R1, Marker Manager V6R1, Diamino V5R4.The purpose of this diploma thesis was the development of women’s outerwear for the company Amanjeda Group OÜ. The models were designed together with the company’s designer Katrin Kuldma. The models were made for Amanjeda’s autumn/winter 2018 collection. The first model can be described as a quilted jacket and the other model is a cape-coat. This thesis is divided into six chapters, which in turn are divided into sub-chapters. The chapters are sorted in accordance with the preparation order of the products. The first chapter gives a short overview of the company for whom the models were made. After that, the models are described in writing and, which is followed by their technical drawings. At the end of the chapter, chosen sewing materials and other supplies are introduced. The second chapter of the diploma thesis concerns the preparation of basic and fitted patterns. It describes the methodology of preparing the basic patterns and the desired fitted patterns. The third chapter describes the preparation of master patterns. A list of master patterns was prepared and the master patterns of basic sizes were made for both models. In addition, the chapter gives the opportunity to see the technical grading. The fourth chapter of the diploma thesis brings out the technical processing of garments in the form of cross-section drawings. The fifth chapter shows the marker making for the basic sizes of the models and describes briefly the development of the production cost. In this chapter, the author calculates the cost of fabric necessary for the preparation of the specimen as well as the cost of fabric for bigger production. The last chapter provides the technical cards of the models. The technical cards indicate the information necessary for the preparation of the product. It lists all the chosen materials and other supplies used for the preparation of the product. The technical card also presents the cross-section drawings of the more complicated seams. For this diploma thesis, the following Lectra programmes were used: Modaris V7R2, Kaledo Style V4R1, Marker Manager V6R1 and Diamino V5R4
Creating Stage Costumes for the Rock Band Terminaator
No full textLõputöö eesmärk oli valmistada koostöös ansambliga Terminaator kaheksa erinevat
lavakostüümi, mis moodustavad viis komplekti- laulja Jaagup Kreem (särk “Beth” & jakk
“Rip”), kitarrist Taavi Langi (meeste poolkombinesoon “Lloyd”), basskitarrist Henno Kelp
(särk “Lee” & ratsapüksid “Jimmy”), klaverimängija Rene Puura (särk “John” & vest “Tate”)
ja trummarist Roland Puusepp (särk “Kayce”). Töös kirjeldatakse suvel toimuva Urissaare
kantrifestivali jaoks valminud kollektsiooni loomise protsessi.
Kollektsiooni kavandamise märksõnadeks on kantri-stiil ja efektsus, nii disain kui ka
kangad peavad andma edasi visuaalse terviku. Värvideks valiti maalähedased toonid nagu
teksasinine, hele pruun, tumepruun, beez, roheline ja must. Moejoonises toodi välja
kantristiilile omapärased jooned näiteks: nahk, narmad, tikandid, ratsapüksid,
poolkombinesoon, erinevad passed ja traditsiooniline kantri ruudlise mustriga kangas.
Moe- ja tehnilised joonised on valmistatud programmis Adobe Illustrator.
Tooted on konstrueeritud M. Müller & Sohn konstrueerimismeetodi järgi- konstrueeriti
põhilõiked särgile, pükstele, jakile ja vestile ning modelleeritud vastavalt disainile, et saada
moekohased lõiked. Pärast näidiste valmistamist tehtid vajalikud muudatused arvestades
bändliliikmete kehade eripärasusi. Lõiked ja lekaalid valmistati programmis Lectra Modaris.
Tehnoloogilises osas on tehtud kõikidele mudelitele läbilõikejoonised ning lisana töö lõpus
on tootete tehnoloogilise töötlemise järjekord (lisa 9).
Kunstnahast kangad, mööblikangas, must kangas ja dubleerid korduvad eri mudelitel, selle
jaoks tehti kombineeritud paigutused programmis Lectra Marker Manager ja Marker
Making, et saada efektiivsem paigutus. Nii leiti ligikaudne kangakulu mudelile. Niidikulu
arvutus tehti samuti, mõõdeti mudeli mudeli õmblused ning korrutati läbi vastava
koefitsiendi ja lisati 15% täiendavat tarbimist. Nende arvutuskäikude põhjal on arvutatud
ligikaudne toodete omahind kui ka müügihind- Särk “Beth” 254,4 €, ratsapüksid “Jimmy”
125,7 €, Särk “John” 287,2 €, särk “Kayce” 99,6 € , särk “Lee” 242,3 € , poolkombinesoon
“Lloyd” 170,4 € , jakk “Rip” 153,9 € ja vest “Tate” 95,8 €The aim for the thesis “Creating Stage Costumes for the Rock Band Terminaator” was to
make, in collaboration with the band Terminaator, eight different stage costumes which
form five sets- singer Jaagup Kreem (shirt "Beth" & jacket "Rip"), guitarist Taavi Langi
(overalls "Lloyd"), bass guitarist Henno Kelp (shirt "Lee" & chaps "Jimmy"), pianist Rene
Puura (shirt "John" & vest "Tate"), and drummer Roland Puusepp (shirt "Kayce"). The
thesis describes the process of creating the collection for the Urissaare country music
festival held in the summer.
The keywords for designing the collection were country style and effectiveness with both
design and fabrics to compose a visual coherence. Earthy tones such as denim blue, light
brown, dark brown, beige, green, and black were chosen as colors. The design included
typical country style elements like leather, fringes, embroideries, chaps, overalls, various
yokes, and traditional country checkered fabrics. Fashion and technical drawings were
created by using Adobe Illustrator.
The pieces were constructed using the M. Müller & Sohn construction method—basic block
patterns for shirt, pants, jacket, and vest were constructed and then modeled according to
the design. After making samples, necessary adjustments were made considering the
specific body characteristics of the band members. Patterns were created using Lectra
Modaris software.
In the technological aspect, unit schemes were made for all models, and as an addition at
the end of the thesis, the description of sewing process flow of the products is provided
(annex 9).
Artificial leather fabrics, upholstery fabric, black fabric, and interlinings recurred in different
models, for which combined markers were made using Lectra Marker Manager and Marker
Making programs to achieve more efficient placement. An approximate fabric consumption
for each model was calculated. Thread consumption calculation was also done, seams of
each model were measured and multiplied by the corresponding coefficient and 15%
wastage of thread was added. Based on these calculations, an approximate cost price and
selling price of the products were calculated- shirt “Beth” 254,4 €, chaps “Jimmy” 125,7 €,
shirt “John” 287,2 €, shirt “Kayce” 99,6 €, shirt “Lee” 242,3 €, overalls “Lloyd” 170,4 €,
jacket “Rip” €153,9 €, and vest “Tate” 95,8 €
Development of an Anthropometric Method for Special Clothes for Rescuers
No full textKäesoleva lõputöö eesmärgiks oli töötada välja kehaasenditega juhend, mille järgi hindab päästja
eririietuse suurusnumbri sobivust. Eesmärgi saavutamiseks püstitati teoreetilised ja empiirilised
ülesanded. Kasutati struktureeritud- ja poolstruktureeritud intervjuud ning hindamised teostati
juhusliku valimi meetodil.
Teoreetiliste ülesannete käigus tutvustati antropomeetria mõistet laiemalt, rääkides täiendavalt selle
kasutamisest erinevates eluvaldkondades. Tutvustati antropomeetriliste mõõtmiste meetodeid ja
esitati joonised, mis aitasid visuaalselt paremini mõista standardsete kehamõõtmete olemust ja
mõõtmist spetsiifilises asendis. Lisaks käsitleti töö teoreetiliste ülesannete käigus funktsionaalsete
töörõivastega seotud teadusartikleid ja standardeid ning tehti ülevaade päästjate tööst ja eririietest.
Päästeametis on suurel hulgal erinevate tööülesannetega töötajaid, kes kannavad ühtset eririietust.
Lõputöö autor keskendus nendest päästjatele, kelle töö eeldab töötamist erinevates
keskkonnatingimustes. Leiti, et antropomeetrilise meetodi väljatöötamine aitab päästjal hinnata
paremini eririietuse suurusnumbri sobivust ja suurendab seeläbi kandja kasutusmugavust.
Empiirilises osas teostati hindamised, kus päästjate poolt hinnati eririietust nii dünaamilise
antropomeetria abil kui ka töökeskkonnast lähtuvalt. Peamiseks probleemiks, mis ilmnes, oli eririiete
materjal, mis ei toeta päästjat tema tööülesannete täitmisel.
Hindamiste käigus selgus, et raskemad kehaasendid panevad proovile rõivaste materjalidest
tulenevad omadused ja liialt täpse suuruse võtnud päästjad tundsid rohkem ebamugavustunnet.
Kompenseerides rõiva vähest elastsust, võeti aga mitmetel juhtudel ühe suurusnumbri võrra suuremad
eririided, tekitamaks teadlikult avaruslisa.
Eesmärk sai täidetud ja töötati välja kehaasenditega juhend, mis edastatakse Päästeametile. Juhend
soovitatakse üles panna igasse Päästekomandosse ja logistikakeskusesse, kus valitakse uut rõivast.
Lõputöö käigus kaardistati eririietuse kitsaskohad ja esitati Päästeametile ettepanekud muudatusteks.
Uurimistöö vajab edasiarendamist lõikeliste lahenduste väljatöötamisel, kuna lõputöö autori
teadmised ei ole sellealaselt piisavad. Uue eririietuse väljatöötamisel tuleb hinnata ka materjalide
keskkonnasõbralikkust ja jätkusuutlikkust.The subject of the present thesis is the Development of an Anthropometric Method for Special Clothes
for Rescuers. The aim of this graduation thesis was a body development guide, according to which
the rescuer evaluates the suitability of the size number of special clothing.
Based on the aim of the thesis, theoretical and empirical tasks were set. Structured and semi-structured
interviews were used and evaluations were performed on a random basis.
The theoretical part dealt with the consept of the anthropometry, which was introduced more broadly,
further talking about its use in various spheres of life. Methods of anthropometric measurements were
introduced and drawings were provided to help visually better understand the theory. In addition, the
theoretical tasks of the work dealt with research articles and standards related to functional workwear.
Author gave an overview of the tasks and special clothing of rescuers.
The empirical part of this thesis was conducted in February 2021. Data for this research were collected
through evaluations conducted at Firefighter Detachments. The rescuers assessed the special clothing
by dynamic anthropometry and accordingly to the working environment. The main problem was the
special clothing material, which did not support the rescuers in the performance of their duties.
It has been found that the development of an anthropometric method helps the rescuer to better assess
the suitability of special clothing size number and thereby increases the comfort of the wearer.
The aim of the research was fulfilled and instruction with body positions was developed, which is
forwarded to the Estonian Rescue Board.
At the end of the thesis, conclusions and suggestions were made to the Estonian Rescue Board about
special clothing disadvantages.
The research needs to be further developed to provide clothing pattern solutions. Environmental
friendliness and sustainability of the materials of new special clothing also needs to be reviewed
Development of Jumpsuit Models for a Starting Company
No full textLõputöö, mille teemaks on pükstükkide mudelite arendus alustavale ettevõttele, eesmärgiks on arendada kolm erineva tegumoega kevad-suvist pükstükkide mudelit alustava ettevõtte tooteportfelli. Ettevõte on suunatud nišiturule ning soovib luua enda nägemuse järgi, avaralõikelised mudelid linnapildis populaarsust kogunud pükstükkidele. Arendustegevus algab moejoonistest, mille tegemisel peetakse silmas ette antud nõudmisi tegumoele ning kangavalikule. Mudelite baaskonstruktsioonide tegemiseks kasutatud konstrueerimissüsteem on autori jaoks uus lähenemine ning proovikivi, kuid töö käigus selgub, et on tegelikkuses lihtne ja kiire lahendus. Tehtud põhilõigetest on modelleeritud lõppkavandite põhjal mudelite lõiked. Modelleeritud lõigete baasil koostatud tootmisprotsessiks vaja minevad lekaalid vajaliku informatsiooniga, samuti detailide paljundusskeemid suurustesse 32-40 ning prototüüpide paigutusjoonised kangale. Paigutusjoonistest tuleneva materjalikulu abil arvestatakse prototüüpide valmistamiseks kuluvate põhi- ja abimaterjalide maksumus. Ka toodete õmblemise operatsioonid ning õmblussõlmede läbilõiked on töös õmblusprotsessi seletuseks välja toodud. Lõputöö tulemusena saab alustav ettevõte pükstükkide mudelite välja töötatud lõiked ning prototüübid baassuurusele 36 koos dokumentatsiooniga, mille põhjal oma edasist tootmist organiseerida ning vajadusel ka tooteid edasi arendada.The purpose of the graduation thesis Development of Jumpsuit Models for a Starting Company is to develop three different looks of spring-summer seasonal jumpsuit models for a starting company’s product range. The company is aimed for niche market and wishes to come up with it’s own vision of wide cut jumpsuits, which have, in recent times, gained popularity. Development process begins with fashion drawings, whereas keeping in mind the requirements for looks and fabrics. The method used for making base constructions is new to the author, nonetheless it appears to be an easy and fast solution. Base constructions have been modeled on the basis of final designs. From modeled patterns have derived cut details with seam lines and necessary information, as well as reproduction schemes for sizes 32-40 and prototypes fabric layout plans. Based on the material usage from layout plans, can be derived main and other materials cost. In addition there have been noted the sewing operations and cross-sections to explain the production process. Consequently the starting company will have developed patterns and prototypes for the jumpsuit models in basic size 36 with necessary documentation to furthermore organize garment production for these models, or further develop them
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