1,720,988 research outputs found

    Differences in climbing-specific strength between boulder and lead rock climbers.

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    Differences in climbing-specific strength between boulder and lead rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 27(2): 310-314, 2013-The purpose of this study was to compare maximal muscle strength and rapid force capacity of finger flexors between boulder and lead climbers of national-international level. Ten boulder (mean ± SD, age 27 ± 8 years) and 10 lead climbers (age 27 ± 6 years) volunteered for the study. Ten nonclimbers (age 25 ± 4 years) were also tested. Isometric maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) force and rate of force development (RFD) produced in "crimp" and "open-crimp" hand positions were evaluated on an instrumented hold. Climbers were stronger than nonclimbers. More interestingly, MVC force and RFD were significantly greater in boulder compared with lead climbers (p < 0.05), in both crimp and open-crimp positions. The RFD was the most discriminatory outcome, as the largest difference between boulder and lead climbers (34-38%) was observed for this variable. The RFD may reflect the specific requirements of bouldering and seems to be more appropriate than pure maximal strength for investigating muscle function in rock climbers

    Architectural changes in superficial and deep compartments of the tibialis anterior during electrical stimulation over different sites

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    Electrical stimulation is widely used in rehabilitation to prevent muscle weakness and to assist the functional recovery of neural deficits. Its application is however limited by the rapid development of muscle fatigue due to the non-physiological motor unit (MU) recruitment. This issue can be mitigated by interleaving muscle belly (mStim) and nerve stimulation (nStim) to distribute the temporal recruitment among different MU groups. To be effective, this approach requires the two stimulation modalities to activate minimally-overlapped groups of MUs. In this manuscript, we investigated spatial differences between mStim and nStim MU recruitment through the study of architectural changes of superficial and deep compartments of tibialis anterior (TA). We used ultrasound imaging to measure variations in muscle thickness, pennation angle, and fiber length during mStim, nStim, and voluntary (Vol) contractions at 15% and 25% of the maximal force. For both contraction levels, architectural changes induced by nStim in the deep and superficial compartments were similar to those observed during Vol. Instead, during mStim superficial fascicles underwent a greater change compared to those observed during nStim and Vol, both in absolute magnitude and in their relative differences between compartments. These observations suggest that nStim results in a distributed MU recruitment over the entire muscle volume, similarly to Vol, whereas mStim preferentially activates the superficial muscle layer. The diversity between spatial recruitment of nStim and mStim suggests the involvement of different MU populations, which justifies strategies based on interleaved nerve/muscle stimulation to reduce muscle fatigue during electrically-induced contractions of TA

    Hip muscle weakness in patients with symptomatic femoroacetabular impingement.

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    Femoroacetabular impingement (FAI) is a pathomechanical process, which may cause hip pain, disability and early development of hip osteoarthritis (OA) in young and active adults. Patients with FAI experience functional disability during dynamic weight-bearing activities, which could originate from weakness of the hip muscles. The objective of this study was to compare hip muscle strength between patients with symptomatic FAI and healthy controls. It was hypothesized that patients would present overall hip muscle weakness compared to controls.A total of 22 FAI patients and 22 controls matched for gender, age, and body mass participated in the study. We evaluated isometric maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) strength of all hip muscle groups using hand-held and isokinetic dynamometry, and electromyographic (EMG) activity of the rectus femoris (RF) and tensor fasciae latae (TFL) muscles during active flexion of the hip.FAI patients had significantly lower MVC strength than controls for hip adduction (28\%), flexion (26\%), external rotation (18\%) and abduction (11\%). TFL EMG activity was significantly lower in FAI patients compared with controls (P=0.048), while RF EMG activity did not differ significantly between the two groups (P=0.056).Patients with symptomatic FAI presented muscle weakness for all hip muscle groups, except for internal rotators and extensors. Based on EMG recordings, it was demonstrated that patients with symptomatic FAI have a reduced ability to activate TFL muscle during hip flexion. These findings provide orthopedic surgeons with objective information about the amount and specificity of hip muscle weakness in patients with FAI. Future research should investigate the relationship between hip muscle weakness, functional disability and overuse injury risks, as well as the effects of hip muscle strengthening on clinical outcomes in individuals with symptomatic FAI

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed

    Effect of ageing on the electrical and mechanical properties of human soleus motor units activated by the H reflex and M wave

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    This study was designed to investigate the effect of ageing on the mechanical and electromyographic (EMG) characteristics of the soleus motor units (MUs) activated by the maximal Hoffmann reflex (Hmax) and by the direct muscle compound action potential (Mmax). Eleven young (mean age 25 ± 4 years) and ten elderly (mean age 73 ± 5 years) males took part in this investigation. The senior group presented lower amplitudes of Mmax (-57 %, P < 0.001) and Hmax (-68 %, P < 0.001) waves compared to the younger population. These were associated with a depression of relative twitch torque of the plantar flexors. The average values of the Hmax/Mmax ratio did not statistically differ between the two populations, despite a tendency for lower values (∼23 %) in the senior group. However, the older adults showed a greater relative amplitude of the sub-maximal M wave evoked at Hmax (MatHmax) than did the younger males (young 5 % vs. elderly 29 % of the Mmax, P < 0.01). This finding suggests an increased homogeneity between the excitability threshold of sensory and motor axons. The twitch torque at Hmax (PtH-M) was subsequently calculated by subtraction from the total twitch torque of the mechanical contamination associated with MatHmax. The resulting PtH-M was significantly lower in the elderly (-59 %, P < 0.001). Despite a discrepancy of 20 % between the two groups, the mechanical ratio (PtH-M/PtM; PtM, twitch tension related to the Mmax compound action potential), like the EMG ratio, did not statistically differ between the young and older individuals. Nevertheless, the senior subjects exhibited a higher twitch/EMG ratio for the reflexively activated MUs (PtH-M/Hmax) than the younger individuals (+40 %, P < 0.05). This finding suggests an on-going neuromuscular remodelling, resulting in an increased innervation ratio. The neural rearrangement may be viewed as a compensatory adaptation of the motor system to preserve the mechanical efficiency of the surviving MUs, despite the age-related impairment of the segmental reflex system. This phenomenon is confirmed by the maintenance, with senescence, of the approximately constant values of the twitch/EMG ratio for the entire motor pool (PtM/Mmax)

    Variations on the Author

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    “Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship
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