1,722,257 research outputs found

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed

    EMPOWERING DESIGNERS IN THE DIGITAL AGE: A NEW APPROACH TO KNITWEAR EDUCATION

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    The transition from analog to digital methods is profoundly impacting design practices, tools, and workflows, particularly in fields with a strong emphasis on materiality. In knitwear design, this digital shift—embraced by the fashion industry—raises questions about the role of experiential knowledge and tactile skills in learning how to create knitted artifacts. The concept of "digital" in knitting primarily refers to the advanced knitting machines and the specialized software used to program them. Less frequently, it pertains to open-access 3D simulation systems, which are often more relevant to woven textiles and broader fashion applications than to knitting itself. While these power knitting machines are designed for fast and efficient production, they are complex and not easily accessible. Similarly, the software that operates them can be challenging to navigate. Typically, these machines are operated by experienced technicians whose deep understanding of knitted structures, materials, and stitches is often more critical than their computer skills. As a result, designers frequently collaborate with these technicians, leading to a significant challenge within the supply chain: a communication bottleneck between two professionals with different mindsets, expertise, and terminologies. Despite these challenges, power knitting machines and their associated software are essential tools for contemporary knitting and innovation—both within the fashion industry and in less explored interdisciplinary research applications. This raises an important question: to what extent should designers learn to control these tools, and for what purpose? This article describes and discusses the structure of the ***blind*** course at ***blind***, inside the Knit Design concentration. Here, designers are taught to understand and utilize digital tools for knitting—not to become technicians but to gain insight into how their designs will be industrialized and produced. This knowledge enables them to communicate effectively with technicians and collaboratively guide the design process toward innovation. Through a reiterative process, the course has evolved into one of the foundational elements of the Knit Design concentration. It remains closely linked with both manual skills training and theoretical learning modules, fostering a comprehensive understanding of both digital tools and traditional techniques. This educational approach prepares designers to navigate the complexities of modern knitwear production while promoting innovative practices in the field

    VIRTUAL MEMORIES: ARCHIVAL KNITWEAR THROUGH 3D MODELLING SOFTWARE AND NEW MEDIA

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    Background: The need to adapt archival knowledge to new technologies has always been a crucial part of the transmission of said archives (1) furthered in recent years by the digital transition of knowledge and cultural change driven by the industry 4.0 and 5.0 (2). In this framework, knitwear archives have started to digitalize their pieces, but as today there appears to be a lack of development in the virtualization of assets through 3D modelling softwares, under the impression that it is impossible to achieve realistic digital twins of knitwear clothes (3). Trying to develop knitwear archival fashion through the use of 3D modelling techniques paves the way for overcoming physical limitations in educational and informative fields, other than being in line with the history of knitwear, which has always been pioneering innovation in the design process. Aim: This research has the aim to investigate on the best method of virtualization of knitwear archival pieces though 3D modelling software, with the aim of using said digital twins for educational and promotional purposes. In order to do so, the research was conducted starting from the knitwear production of Gianfranco Ferre, preserved into Gianfranco Ferre’s Research Centre, exploring the crucial points this production and the main focus to be transmitted through digital technologies. Method: Data about pre-existent 3D fashion modelling software was acquired through first-hand research and the selection of pieces was virtualized combining previously set knowledge and discoveries of new methos of utilization of software, interpreting with analytical critique the results, their possible improvements, and implications for the field. Conclusion: The results of this research show interesting developments for the virtualization of knitwear pieces with educational and promotional purposes, suggesting a method of use of non-specific software and a way to overcome physical limitations in the transmission of archival knowledge. Moreover, it is intended as an inspiration for further software development, in order to facilitate the future seamless virtualization of knitwear

    Leniency Programs and Cartel Prosecution

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    The paper analyses the optimal design and enforcement of Leniency Programs, that grant immunity to firms involved in a cartel that cooperate in the investigations. We show that LP can have both pro-collusive and deterrence effects but that these latter prevail in the optimal scheme, requiring full immunity to all cooperating firms
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