1,720,968 research outputs found
Fashion and orientalism
No full textGECZY Adam Fashion and orientalism : dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century London : Bloomsbury Academic, 2013, XIII-255 p. ISBN 978-1-84788-599-9 MOND 689 Résumé éditeur : Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion. Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth..
Invocation and exorcism : from the series, The terror of art
No full textCatalogue of an exhibition held at 200 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, Victoria, of black and white prints on colour paper, framed works gelatin silver prints 1997 - 8
Sustainability and Digitalization
Full text linkThe 20th Century fashion system, predicated on bi-annual presentations to wholesale buyers travelling the globe appears increasingly inappropriate in the 21st Century digital economy.
The designer fashion sector in the UK is economically significant, comprising a high proportion of micro and small businesses that often serve as creative inspiration for the wider fashion system, but struggle to survive themselves. These design-led businesses have the capability to be highly agile, utilizing local and novel smaller-scale production methods and practices to meet changing demand efficiently. A number of innovators are developing alternative business models that harness digital technology for creative purposes, rather than purely for marketing and e-commerce, demonstrating the potential to be more environmentally (and economically) sustainable.
This chapter discusses findings from research with micro and small fashion enterprises, investigating their use of digital technology in creative processes, and presents examples of innovations that challenge current paradigms and could have significant influence on future fashion
Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis
Full text linkThe present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation
counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings
are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that
only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into
account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed
A display of ‘articles of clothing, for immediate, personal, or domestic use': fashion at the great exhibition
No full textFor at least two centuries, fashion and art have maintained a competitive love-hate relationship. Both fashion and art construct imaginary worlds, and use a language of style to invigorate beliefs, perceptions and ideas. Intimate or antagonistic, the ties are ever-present, if not strengthening. Until now the crossovers of fashion and art have received only scattered treatment and suffered from a dearth of theorization. As an attempt to theorize the area, this collection of new and updated essays is the most well-rounded and authoritative to date. Some of the world's foremost scholars in the field are assembled here to explore the art-fashion nexus in numerous ways: from aesthetics and performance to masquerade and media. Original and inspiring, this book will not only secure 'art-fashion' as a discrete area of study, but also suggest new critical pathways for exploring their continuing cross-pollination. Fashion and Art is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, art history and theory, cultural studies, sociology and related fields
Variations on the Author
Full text link“Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship
Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis
Full text linkWe provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis
Prada and the art of patronage
No full textThis chapter is an updated and revised version of an article initially published in the journal Fashion Theory.
The chapter examines the relationship between luxury brands and the arts through an analysis of Prada’s patronage of avant-garde artists such as Tom Sachs, Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, Carsten Höller and architects such as Rem Koolhaas. The proposition that global corporate identity has increasingly become linked with artistic creativity is tested in relation to Pierre Bourdieu’s writings about social distinction (1984) and his analysis of the ‘field’ of cultural production (1993).
The above is part of a body of work including conference papers and articles analysing the shifting boundaries of the art world where the interrelationship between private collections, public museums, commercial galleries and auction houses has become increasingly complex. The focus is on patronage as constituting an elaborate network of alliances linking cultural, commercial and political interests across a range of industry sectors.
Related articles published from April 2008 onwards include:
Ryan, N. (2012) ‘The New Medici: Mediating Luxury through Art’, Writing Visual Culture, University of Hertfordshire (forthcoming).
Ryan, N. (2010) ‘From New York to the Congo via Marfa: Branded Occupation’, OCCUPATION: Negotiations with Constructed Space, publication of conference proceedings. Brighton University, 2nd-4th July. http://artsresearch.brighton.ac.uk/research/centre/office-for-spatial-research/projects/project-and-conference-archive/occupation/conference-papers/39_Nicky%20Ryan_From%20New%20York%20to%20the%20Congo%20via%
Ryan, N. (2009) ‘Patronising Prada’, in Monika Parrinder and Colin Davies (eds.) Limited language: Rewriting Design, Basel: Birkhäuser, pp. 33-40
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