356 research outputs found
La fortuna dell’antico nella comunicazione museale della moda e del lusso in Italia
No full textDemonstrating the contribution and the communicative potential of classics to the history of Italian art and, as a consequence, to the history of Italian fashion is the aim of this paper. In support of this thesis, some museological and museographical cases studies will be highlighted. The Museo Salvatore Ferragamo and the Gucci Garden, for example, are both strategically located in historical and well-known Florentine palaces such as Palazzo Spini Feroni and the Tribunale della Mercanzia. The Valentino Garavani Museum, the pioneering virtual fashion museum launched in 2011, recalls the imagery of a modern temple such as the Ara Pacis Museum in Rome with its exquisite “marbles” decorating the walls, the large interior spaces marked by staircases and skylights. Some iconic exhibitions and fashion shows organized by luxury brands in cultural venues will be also presented as a general expression of this trend about the use of the Ancient world’s heritage as a tool in the narration of Italian fashion.Dimostrare la fortuna e il potenziale dei classici per la storia dell’arte italiana e di conseguenza per la storia della moda italiana è l’obiettivo del presente paper. A supporto di tale tesi sono portati dei casi museologici e museografici esemplificativi:per esempio il Museo Salvatore Ferragamo e il Gucci Garden, entrambi strategicamente collocati in palazzi storici fiorentini come Palazzo Spini Feroni e il Tribunale della Mercanzia;il Valentino Garavani Museum, pionieristico museo virtuale lanciato nel 2011, che riporta all’immaginario di un tempio moderno come il Museo dell’Ara Pacis di Roma per via dello squisito pallore “marmoreo” delle pareti, dei grandi spazi interni scanditi da scalinate e dei lucernai. Sono inoltre presentate alcune mostre iconiche e sfilate organizzate dai brand del lusso presso i luoghi della cultura come espressione generale di una tendenza all’utilizzo dell’eredità culturale dell’antico come strumento di narrazione della moda italiana
Reviewing the Gaze on the Most Shocking of Colours: Pink as a Marker of the Darkest Times
No full textPaying homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic colour shade from the thirties, this contribution is dedicated to the most “shocking” of colours, pink, and its counter normative power. Instead of retracing its symbolic history, this paper aims to provide a critical reading on its systematic appearance in the daily news, to utilize it as a lens for understanding our perspective on our time, fashion and gender included. Valentino’s Pink PP Collection RTW/FW 2022, the public objection to pink face masks for the Italian Police in 2022, the Pantone’s election of Viva Magenta as the colour of the year 2023, are presented as recent case studies to illustrate this apparent supremacy of pink
Women of fashion museums. Stories of enlightened women, art historians, collectors and editors who have brought fashion into museums
No full textThis paper provides an overview of a study about the birth of fashion museums in Italy with reference to the role that women have played within these cultural institutions. The research focuses on three main case studies: Palma Bucarelli, Anna Piaggi, and Cecilia Matteucci Lavarini. The former was the first woman director of Rome’s National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art, the second was the legendary fashion editor to whom the Victoria and Albert Museum has dedicated the exhibition entitled "Anna Piaggi: Fashion-ology", and the last is a collector of Haute Couture dresses and Oriental costumes. Significant exhibitions have been dedicated to these style icons in international venues while their clothes are enriching the permanent collections of museums such as the Boncompagni Ludovisi Museum in Rome or the Museum of Costume and Fashion in Florence. The paper aims to bring to the surface the importance that these figures have had in the history of fashion museology
Streetwear suicide. The paradox of the subculture that has to kill itself to claim the place of culture
No full textConspiracy, death, and the suicide of art have fed a dense bibliography that has been provocatively recalled in the title to illustrate the synergies between the path followed by contemporary art and the history of fashion, particularly streetwear.
Born from the street, symbol of group identity of youth subcultures divergent from the hegemonic culture, over time streetwear has been transformed from a phenomenon of counter-normative clothing to a fetish of the system. Similarly, history has witnessed the paradox of contemporary art, which has renounced being itself in the traditional sense, for instance by giving up on its esthetic dimension, in order to become something else, conceptual, thereby fulfilling its metaphorical suicide. Like anti-art, so anti-fashion and the passage of streetwear from subculture to culture, but at the cost of a harakiri. The histories of art and streetwear have thus followed the same lines within a chapter full of prolific encounters. They are in fact children of Duchampian- and Warholian-derived irony: the desecrating Balenciaga-Gucci The Hacker Project; the “Magritte-esque” advertising campaigns of the brand with the most surrealistic name of all, Vetements; the Louis Vuitton women’s ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2019 fashion show in which the hybridizations even invaded the space of the Louvre set up as the Beaubourg. Of all the relationships, one is still controversial: the legitimization of street culture in the last space of art, its temple and mausoleum: the museum
Das in Fossacesia neu aufgefundene Fragment der Konstitutionen Friedrichs II.: Edition
No full textEines der ältesten Manuskripte der Costitutiones Melphitanae wurde kürzlich in der Gemeinde Fossacesia (Italien) gefunden. Das Manuskriptfragment stammt aus dem 13. Jahrhundert und ist eines der wertvollsten und faszinierendsten Zeugnisse der staufischen Zeit, das in den letzten Jahrzehnten entdeckt wurde: Wie der Codex Vatikan (Codex Vat. Lat 6770) enthält es den sogenannten Apparat antiquus und überträgt als solcher neben dem Glossar von Andreas Bonello auch die des sogenannten Glossators G', allerdings im Unterschied zu den anderen heute bekannten glossierten Kodizes auch mit dem erweiterten Namen: Guisandus. Dieser Artikel zeichnet die Geschichte des Fossacesia-Fragments nach und legt den Baustein für die Geschichte der Glossatoren in Regnum Siciliae
Der erste Glossator des Liber augustalis Friedrichs II.
No full textEines der ältesten Manuskripte der Costitutiones Melphitanae wurde kürzlich in der Gemeinde Fossacesia (Italien) gefunden. Das Manuskriptfragment stammt aus dem 13. Jahrhundert und ist eines der wertvollsten und faszinierendsten Zeugnisse der staufischen Zeit, das in den letzten Jahrzehnten entdeckt wurde: Wie der Codex Vatikan (Codex Vat. Lat 6770) enthält es den sogenannten Apparat antiquus und überträgt als solcher neben dem Glossar von Andreas Bonello auch die des sogenannten Glossators G', allerdings im Unterschied zu den anderen heute bekannten glossierten Kodizes auch mit dem erweiterten Namen: Guisandus. Dieser Artikel zeichnet die Geschichte des Fossacesia-Fragments nach und legt den Baustein für die Geschichte der Glossatoren in Regnum Siciliae
Brand heritage management. Tesaurizzare il patrimonio aziendale per comunicare l'immaginario
No full textPresentare la figura del brand heritage manager e il suo campo d’azione è l’obiettivo del presente contributo. In particolare verranno presi in esame gli strumenti della cd. comunicazione “istituzionale” come i musei d’impresa e le sponsorizzazioni artistiche sui luoghi della cultura accomunati dalla scelta di uno storytelling facente leva sulla dimensione del desiderio e del sogno.
Tesaurizzare il bello, l’esotico, lo straordinario è stato il fine di una ricerca estetica che ha caratterizzato il collezionismo fin dai secoli delle leggendarie Wunderkammer. Con la nascita delle prime raccolte pubbliche, i gabinetti delle curiosità hanno ceduto il passo ai musei e con essi a un nuovo modo di comunicare l’arte, non più improntato al sensazionale ma al razionale. Studi recenti hanno tuttavia dimostrato come un tale approccio museologico e museografico sia stato raccolto dai mecenati del lusso, fondatori di nuovi giardini delle delizie come il Gucci Garden o promotori di eventi come le mostre Bulgari. La storia, il sogno, Christian Dior, couturier du rêve o L’Asie rêvée d’Yves Saint Laurent tenute presso i maggiori musei internazionali. Facendo leva sulla dimensione del sogno e del desiderio, la comunicazione della moda è passata dunque dalla rappresentazione dell’immagine del marchio al suo immaginario. Ma come si è compiuta una tale trasformazione? E, soprattutto, chi ne è stato l’artefice? Il brand heritage manager con i relativi dipartimenti e archivi a cui fa capo costituisce la figura professionale con competenze storico-artistiche ma anche tecnico-manageriali a cui è demandato il compito di valorizzare il patrimonio aziendale mediante gli strumenti della cd. comunicazione “istituzionale” quali i musei d’impresa o le sfilate sui luoghi della cultura. Se l’importanza dello storytelling è pertanto cruciale nella mitopoiesi del marchio, il brand heritage manager lo è altrettanto quale anello di congiunzione tra presente, passato e vita futura del brand. Spazi museali come il Gucci Garden, il Gran Tour di Hermès in Italia e altri esempi di sponsorizzazioni artistiche promosse da note imprese come Bottega Veneta verranno mostrati quali casi di studio a riprova del valore della comunicazione nella creazione del valore aziendale
Is a combination of melatonin and amino acids useful to sarcopenic elderly patients? A randomized trial
No full textThis study evaluated the effectiveness of a 4-week intervention of melatonin and essential aminoacid supplementation on body composition, protein metabolism, strength and inflammation in 159 elderly sarcopenic patients (42/117, men/women), assigned to four groups: isocaloric placebo (P, n = 44), melatonin (M, 1 mg/daily, n = 42), essential amino acids (eAA 4 g/daily, n = 40) or eAA plus melatonin (eAAM, 4 g eAA and 1 mg melatonin/daily, n = 30). Data from body composition (dual X-ray absortiometry (DXA)), strength (handgrip test) and biochemical parameters for the assessment of protein metabolism (albumin) and inflammation (CRP) were collected at baseline and after the 4-week intervention. Compared with P and M, supplementation with eAA plus M increased total fat-free mass (vs. P: +2190 g; p < 0.01; vs. M: +2107 g; p < 0.05). M alone lowered albumin levels (vs. P: -0.39 g; p < 0.01; vs. eAA: -0.47 g; p < 0.01). This data on albumin was confirmed by within-group analysis (M -0.44g; p < 0.001; eAAM: -0.34 p < 0.05). M and eAA seemed to lower the percentage of gynoid fat (p < 0.05) and android fat (p < 0.01). No significant changes in inflammation or strength were reported. A 4-week intervention with eAA plus M together may be effective in enhancing fat-free-mass compared to M and P but not versus eAA. M alone demonstrates a negative effect on albumin level
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