1,720,959 research outputs found
Environmentally conscious fashion through responsible coloration techniques applied to sustainable fabrics : colouring outside the lines
Get PDFColour for fashion and textiles is an immediately obvious aesthetic concern, both for designer and consumer. The environmental consequences in the creation and application of colour and the implications of the processes used in aiming to produce future sustainable fashion and textiles are less obvious and often overlooked. The purpose of the research described in this thesis was to explore reducing the environmental impact of coloured fashion and textiles through how they are designed and produced, questioning if coloured fashion and textiles can be sustainable? The research was conducted at the design/technology interface, carried out in collaboration with Lenzing, an Austrian fibre manufacturer. The newly developed interdisciplinary methodology provides a design driven framework from which to explore the relationship between fibre, colour and garment to identify the challenges and opportunities in producing coloured fashion & textiles. The creativity of design thinking is underpinned with the technical inquiry of coloration technology. The outcomes of the research provide innovative sustainability solutions for designing and producing coloured fashion and textiles.
The thesis establishes the current state of knowledge for the designing and producing of coloured fashion and textiles with reduced environmental impact, exploring both natural and synthetic sources of colour. A gap in knowledge relating to the sustainable coloration of cellulose fibres is highlighted resulting in the research direction being specifically focused on the regenerated cellulose fibre lyocell. The research outcomes provide two key approaches to colour for fashion and textiles, each based within the biological lifecycle, these being; sustainable and responsible coloration. For sustainable coloration where the biological life cycle is uninterrupted, a ‘cyclical model’ is developed, specifically focused on the utilization of a natural dye extracted from a by-product of lyocell fibre manufacture, this model provides a method for sustainable coloration that is of a commercial scale and technical standard. For responsible coloration, where the biological life cycle is interrupted through the introduction of additional chemical’s for pre and post coloration stages as well as the use of petrochemical based synthetic dyes during coloration a carefully selected set of reactive dyes is used that provide minimal environmental impact, the preparation and finishing stages are explored and a method of best practice developed that minimises chemical, energy and water usage of pre-creative coloration stages. Within the responsible coloration research the technical inquiry identifies the use of bi-functional dyes, the chemistry of these dyes inspires the creative inquiry and research outcome of ‘bi-surface fabrics’, screen print and digital print methods are merged with technical processes and auxiliary chemical’s minimized or removed to create a new approach to coloration that reduces environmental impact and provides an innovative bi-surface fabric. Through creating two surfaces within a single piece of fabric, the designer essentially can design a second life at the initial design stage for the garment the fabric is used to construct, ultimately extending the lifetime of the garments use phase within its lifetime to optimize the embedded energy from production stages and reduce waste from premature disposal.
The thesis presented involves traditional argument encompassing elements of both technology and design. As part of the design research process, a physical collection of samples and prototype garments was also produced, and these are referenced and documented photographically within the thesis
Collaborative Circular Design: Incorporating Life Cycle Thinking into an Interdisciplinary Design Process
Get PDFTo evolve fashion and textiles within the circular economy an interdisciplinary approach encompassing a range of life cycle perspectives is required, facilitating this collaboration requires new thinking and tools. The research presented in this paper was explored through a European Union Horizon 2020 funded project, Trash 2 Cash (T2C), where collaborative ‘life cycle thinking’ (LCT) tools were developed to integrate multiple expert perspectives within the design process. The research positioned material scientists, industry stakeholders, consumer behaviour and Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) researchers into the heart of an iterative design process, tools were developed between and tested through consortium workshops over a 21-month period. Several key findings proved the value in the use of these interdisciplinary LCT methods, alongside new insights into barriers and opportunities for future circular material developments. Designing tools for collaborative research and the sharing of knowledge in this context was instrumental in helping to promote social exchange and the building of communities within the project and beyond. This work provides an important basis for understanding how to bring the theory of circularity into a networked industry practice
Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis
Get PDFThe present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation
counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings
are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that
only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into
account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed
Variations on the Author
Get PDF“Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship
Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis
Get PDFWe provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis
Dispelling the Myths Behind First-author Citation Counts
Get PDFWe conducted a full-scale evaluative citation analysis study of scholars in the XML research field to explore just how different from each other author rankings resulting from different citation counting methods actually are, and to demonstrate the capability of emerging data and tools on the Web in supporting more realistic citation counting methods. Our results contest some common arguments for the continued
use of first-author citation counts in the evaluation of scholars, such as high correlations between author rankings by first-author citation counts and other citation
counting methods, and high costs of using more realistic citation counting methods that are not well-supported by the ISI databases. It is argued that increasingly available digital full text research papers make it possible for citation analysis studies to go beyond what the ISI databases have directly supported and to employ more
sophisticated methods
koamabayili/VECTRON-author-checklist: VECTRON author checklist
No full textWe have done our best to complete the author checklist relating to the use of animals in the hut study. Note that the objective for the hut study was to evaluate the IRS treatment applications for residual efficacy against Anopheles mosquitoes, including the local An. coluzzii mosquito population. Cows were only used to attract mosquitoes into the huts and no tests were carried out directly on the cows. The author checklist is intended for use with studies where experiments are carried out on animals, which is why we have had such difficulty in completing this for the hut study, as many of the questions do not relate to how the cows were used
Author-wise bibliometric analysis based on entropy.
No full textAuthor-wise bibliometric analysis based on entropy.</p
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