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    FIT Talks: Gavrik Losey, son of Elizabeth Hawes, Interview

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    In this interview, Rebecca Arnold, Lecturer in the History of Dress and Textiles at The Courtauld Institute of Art, interviews Gavrik Losey about his mother, American fashion designer Elizabeth Hawes

    Beauty and Double Duty: Elizabeth Hawes and the Politics of Fashion and Women\u27s Work

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    As early as 1971, the term Socialist Feminism was used to describe the belief that the institutions of capitalism and patriarchy both operate to oppress women. Women in the workplace have traditionally been relegated to gendered positions (secretaries, cleaners, et al.) while full-time housewives labor to keep their homes and families in order yet are not considered members of the workforce. Though the term was not coined until the early 1970s, the life of Elizabeth Hawes provides an example of socialist feminism in practice long before the traditionally accepted start of the second wave in 1960. Elizabeth Hawes (a fashion designer, writer, and labor organizer) studied fashion in Paris and was quickly disillusioned by the industry\u27s preference for only the wealthiest client. Determined to democratize fashion, Hawes opened her own design house in New York in 1928, but was unable to reconcile the extremely high production costs with consumer affordability. A brief foray into mass production designs also proved unsuccessful as department stores emphasized quantity over quality. Though she was never successful in her attempts to make quality fashion available to the majority of women, Hawes\u27 experiences led her to consider how women managed work, family, marriage, and appearance. This dissertation argues that women worker\u27s participation in unionism and labor organizing was complicated by the reality of commitments to family, marriage, and the home as well as the gendered division of labor in the workplace. The term double shift does not adequately encompass the myriad of responsibilities placed on women in the Depression and war periods. Socialist feminist theory provides a solid foundation for not only historical analysis of working women but was also a significant aspect of Hawes\u27 understanding of gender at home, in the workplace, and through clothing. Hawes was among the first to write about clothing as psychological/social signifiers, relating appearance to issues of race, class, ethnicity, and especially gender. Her considerations of fashion and labor politics serve to illustrate social constructions of class and gender in the U.S. as well as examine conceptions of feminist activity between 1920 and 1960

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed

    Variations on the Author

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    “Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship

    Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis

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    We provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis

    Dispelling the Myths Behind First-author Citation Counts

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    We conducted a full-scale evaluative citation analysis study of scholars in the XML research field to explore just how different from each other author rankings resulting from different citation counting methods actually are, and to demonstrate the capability of emerging data and tools on the Web in supporting more realistic citation counting methods. Our results contest some common arguments for the continued use of first-author citation counts in the evaluation of scholars, such as high correlations between author rankings by first-author citation counts and other citation counting methods, and high costs of using more realistic citation counting methods that are not well-supported by the ISI databases. It is argued that increasingly available digital full text research papers make it possible for citation analysis studies to go beyond what the ISI databases have directly supported and to employ more sophisticated methods

    Author Index

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    koamabayili/VECTRON-author-checklist: VECTRON author checklist

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    We have done our best to complete the author checklist relating to the use of animals in the hut study. Note that the objective for the hut study was to evaluate the IRS treatment applications for residual efficacy against Anopheles mosquitoes, including the local An. coluzzii mosquito population. Cows were only used to attract mosquitoes into the huts and no tests were carried out directly on the cows. The author checklist is intended for use with studies where experiments are carried out on animals, which is why we have had such difficulty in completing this for the hut study, as many of the questions do not relate to how the cows were used
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