1,720,956 research outputs found

    Designing sustainable collection with recycled army clothing

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    Naloga opisuje razvoj in realizacijo kolekcije moških in ženskih oblačil z vključevanjem reciklaže že obstoječih oblačil. V teoretičnem delu so raziskane ideje, ki skupaj tvorijo kreativno podlago omenjene kolekcije. Prvotna ideja, vzdušje, je nastala ob ogledu biografske kriminalne triler serije “Narcos” (2015) avtorja in producenta Chrisa Brancata. Raziskava se naslanja na novodobne vojaške uniforme, fenomen tetoviranja kot način izkazovanja pripadnosti in modni stil, popularen med ženskami v osemdesetih letih, t. i. “power dressing”. V eksperimentalnem delu je predstavljen razvoj kolekcije, od izhodišča in inspiracije do implementacije idej z izborom materialov in barvne lestvice, uporabo ročnih tehnik, grafičnostjo kolekcije in predelavo obstoječih oblačil v končno manifestacijo rezultatov. Končna kolekcija je predstavljena s skicami in tehničnimi skicami, inspiracija pa preko avtorskih kolažev. Končni rezultat je avtorska kolekcija oblačil z imenom “Pablo”, ki se inspirira predvsem v izkazovanju oziroma dokazovanju močiv vojaški uniformi in njenih detajlih, videzu latinskoameriških gangsterjev in oblačenju žensk v osemdesetih, z namenom vzpostaviti položaj v poslovni družbi, ki je bil predvsem moški svet. Oblačila so namenjena moškim in ženskam, nagovarjajo posameznika, ki ne sledi normativom, ampak ceni in išče posamezne unikatne oz. maloserijske kose, jih po svoje kombinira in z njimi gradi svojo osebno zgodbo.The thesis describes the development and realisation of menswear and womenswear collection, including the method of recycling pre-existent clothing. The theoretical part researches the ideas, which together form the creative basis of previously mentioned collection. The original idea and atmosphere was created after watching biographical criminal thriller series “Narcos” (2015) created and produced by Chris Brancato. The research leans on contemporary military uniforms, the phenomena of tattooing and expression of belonging and the so called “power dressing” fashion style from the eighties. The experimental part deals with the development of the collection, from starting point and inspiration to implementing ideas through fabric selection, the usage of handwork and prints, in the final manifestation of results. The results are presented through sketches and technical drawings, while the inspiration is presented through own author collages. The end result is an author collection of clothing named “Pablo”, which mostly gathers its inspiration in the manifestation of powerin military uniform and its details, the look of Latin American gangsters and women’s dressing in the eighties as a means of establishing position in a men’s business world. Clothes are designed for both men and women, they speak to the individual who does not follow normatives, but appreciates and looks for individual unique pieces, combines them together and in this way builds his or her own personal story

    Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis

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    The present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed

    Variations on the Author

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    “Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship

    Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis

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    We provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis

    Dispelling the Myths Behind First-author Citation Counts

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    We conducted a full-scale evaluative citation analysis study of scholars in the XML research field to explore just how different from each other author rankings resulting from different citation counting methods actually are, and to demonstrate the capability of emerging data and tools on the Web in supporting more realistic citation counting methods. Our results contest some common arguments for the continued use of first-author citation counts in the evaluation of scholars, such as high correlations between author rankings by first-author citation counts and other citation counting methods, and high costs of using more realistic citation counting methods that are not well-supported by the ISI databases. It is argued that increasingly available digital full text research papers make it possible for citation analysis studies to go beyond what the ISI databases have directly supported and to employ more sophisticated methods

    Author Index

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    koamabayili/VECTRON-author-checklist: VECTRON author checklist

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    We have done our best to complete the author checklist relating to the use of animals in the hut study. Note that the objective for the hut study was to evaluate the IRS treatment applications for residual efficacy against Anopheles mosquitoes, including the local An. coluzzii mosquito population. Cows were only used to attract mosquitoes into the huts and no tests were carried out directly on the cows. The author checklist is intended for use with studies where experiments are carried out on animals, which is why we have had such difficulty in completing this for the hut study, as many of the questions do not relate to how the cows were used

    PEELING GARMENTS : Flat garment construction between fabric layers using the printing process as a construction method and the reference of a peeling wallpaper to create expressive dress

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    This work is a proposal for an alternative approach to working with print, making the printing process a key element within designing. It is an investigation into flat garment construction between fabric layers, as this enables for the printing to be used in place of sewing. Additionally, working with multiple textile layers connects with the reference of the peeling wallpaper, which is used as a base for material and form developments. The aim of the work is to develop a more holistic approach and new expressions in garment-making in relation to the application of printing processes within textile layers. The main objective is to present a new perspective of the relationship between garment pattern and print, bringing the later forward. Not only does the surface print, through the interaction of colour and texture provide an important element in terms of creating expression, but it additionally acts as a construction element. Moreover, by using the process of printing to create form the element of print becomes integrated into the process of garment-making
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