8,552 research outputs found
Hair without a head: disembodiment and the uncanny
No full textThis essay concerns itself with disembodied hair and will show via the discussion of a range of cultural and historical examples that such hair is, in Freudian terms, uncanny. It makes connections between hair’s place in memorial, ritual and magic, to emphasise its ambiguous and in some cases troubled relationship to the rest of the human body.
The essay explores the relationship between disembodied hair, the ghostly, and specific historical and cultural contexts that make the use of uncanny hair of this kind an enduring motif in the representation of the spectral and the supernatural.
Publisher's Text About the Book:
Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion explores the social importance of hair, wherever it grows, explaining the cultural significance of hair and hairiness, and presenting a new critical engagement with hair and its stories, histories, performances and rituals.
From heads, legs and underarms, to wigs and beards, and everything in between, the presentation, manipulation and daily experience of human hair plays a central and dynamic role within fashion, self-expression and the creation of social identity. The book's diverse range of cross-cultural essays encompasses the study of hair in fashion, film, art, history, literature, performance and consumer culture.
Offering an accessible mix of visual analysis, cultural commentary and critical theory, Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion will appeal to all those interested in the presentation and analysis of cultural identity and the body.
Contents
Acknowledgments
Foreword, Caroline Cox
Author's Biographies
1. Introduction: Thinking About Hair, Geraldine Biddle-Perry And Sarah Cheang
Part One: Histories of Hair On the Head, Face and Body
2. Fashionable Hair In The Eighteenth Century: Theatricality and Display, Louisa Cross,
3. Roots: Hair and Race, Sarah Cheang
4. Revealing and Concealing: Notes and Observations on Eroticism and Female Pubic Hair, Jack Sargeant
5. From Style to Place: The Emergence Of The Hair Salon in the Twentieth Century, Kim Smith
6. The Big Shave: Fashions In Modern Male Facial Hair, Dene October
Part Two: Hair & Identity
7. Hair And Male (Homo) Sexuality: Up Top And Down Below, Shaun Cole
8. Hair, Gender And Looking, Geraldine Biddle-Perry
9. Men's Facial Hair in Islam: A Matter of Interpretation, Faegheh Shirazi
10. Resounding Power Of The Afro Comb, Carol Tulloch
11. Concerning Blondeness: Gender, Ethnicity, Spectacle And Footballers' Waves, Pamela Church-Gibson
12. Hair, devotion and trade in India, Eiluned Edwards
Part Three: Hair in Representation: Film, Art, Fashion, Literature & Performance
13. Hairpieces: Hair, Identity and Memory in the Work of Mona Hatoum, Leila McKellar
14. Hair Without a Head: Disembodiment and The Uncanny, Janice Miller
15. Hair and Fashioned Femininity in Two Nineteenth-Century Novels, Royce Mahawatte.
16. Hair control: The Feminine 'Disciplined Head', Thom Hecht
17. Hair-'Dressing' In Desperate Housewives: Narration, Characterisation, And The Pleasures Of Reading Hair, Rachel Velody
18. Hair Styling In The Fashion Magazine: Nova In The 1970s, Alice Beard
Conclusion
19. Conclusion: Hair and Human Identity, Sarah Cheang and Geraldine Biddle-Perry
End Notes
Inde
Global connections and fashion histories: East Asian embroidered garments
No full textEmbroidered garments have played a key role in the global spread of Japanese and Chinese fashions. This chapter readdresses the categories of national, transnational and global using Asian perspectives and object-led studies of fashion history and embroidery. By placing emphasis on ways to follow embroidery’s movements within East Asia, and between East Asia and other parts of the world, it explores the impossibility of grasping and defining globalization (a question often raised in transnational studies). Rooting the research in East Asia also provokes a series of rejoinders to on-going Eurocentric tendencies in global fashion studies and proposes new models for understanding fashion and postcolonialism. The chapter uses two new examples of transnational fashion research to catalyze an active discussion of East Asian fashion histories as globally connected. A study of early 20th century Chinese embroidered shawls reveals the transformations involved in transmission between China, the Philippines, Latin America, Spain and England. This enables a new history of Asian-American-European interactions to be written that does not privilege Europe and North America, nor create a simplistic narrative of ‘exotic’ components in European fashion. Likewise, tracing the movement of the sukajan, or souvenir jacket from Japan, where it was first embroidered by the Japanese for U.S. occupying forces, to Vietnam, where it was reinterpreted during the Vietnam War, to its international appearance in popular films, demonstrates a complex but fluid and sustained transmittal dialogue in which Asian and North American players actively feature and interact. By bridging the gap between cultural studies and the material evidence of museum collections, and centering the study of cultural flows of fashion on East Asia, more satisfying ways are found to challenge binary constructions of East/West, traditional/modern, which are an insufficient model for understanding the complexities of global flow but that continue to haunt fashion studies
Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion
No full textThis book, edited by Cheang with G. Biddle-Perry offers the first thorough examination of the social importance of the expressive, representational and material possibilities of human hair. The presentation, manipulation and daily experience of human hair are situated within the processes of inscribing cultural meaning, through a complex network of normalising standards and discursive practices. Approaching a diversity of contexts, from classical ballet to television sitcoms, and from India to the East End, this collection examines hair across age, race, ethnicity, gender and sexuality. In addition to co-editing the collection, Cheang co-authored wrote the substantial introductory and concluding essays, which offer an original synthesis of cultural studies and anthropological approaches to the study of hair. Cheang also wrote the chapter ‘Roots: Hair and Race’, a 6,000-word essay that analyses museum collections of hair in relation to constructions of ‘race’ (pp.27–42). In particular, Cheang worked with medical, anthropological and natural history collections that include both samples of human hair and photographs. These primary sources are analysed in the context of a critical reading of 19th-century literature that attempted to explain ‘racial difference’. Extending this research, Cheang and Biddle-Perry co-wrote a new 10,000-word entry on ‘Hair’ for the November 2011 online update to the Berg Encylopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Other closely related activities included the organisation and moderation by Cheang and Biddle-Perry of the international symposium ‘Hair Stories: Practice, Theory, Culture’ at the V&A Museum (2009). Following publication of Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion, Cheang was invited to comment on the meaning of hair collecting and beauty styling in the popular media, including Vogue (2011), The Stylist (2011), Observer Magazine (2013), Elle Canada website (2013), and in the television series programme Taboo (National Geographic Channel)
The 'true use of reading' : Sarah Fielding and mid eighteenth-century literary strategies.
No full textPhDThe aim of this thesis is to explore, by examining her life and
works, how Sarah Fielding (1710-68) established her identity as an author.
The definition of her role involves her notions of the functions of
writing and reading.
Sarah Fielding attempts to invite readers to form a sense of ties
by tacit understanding of her messages. As she believes that a work
of literature is produced through collaboration between the writer and
the reader, it is an important task in her view to show her attentiveness
toward reading practice. In her consideration of reading, she has two
distinct, even opposite views of her audience: on the one hand a familiar
and limited circle of readers with shared moral and cultural values and
on the other potential readers among the unknown mass of people. The
dual targets direct her to devise various strategies. She tries to
appeal to those who can endorse and appreciate her moral values as well
as her learning. Her writings and letters testify that she is sensitive
to the demands of the literary market, trying to lead the taste of readers
by inventing new forms.
The thesis opens with an overview of Sarah Fielding's career,
followed by a consideration of her critical attention to the roles of
reading. I go on to examine the narrative structures and strategies
she deploys, with a particular emphasis on her use of the epistolary
method. The following chapter deals with her attention to the reading
of the moral message tangibly embodied in her educational writing. It
is followed by an analysis of the activity which earned her a reputation
as a learned woman. Various as the forms of her works are, they invariably
reflect her attempt to balance herself between the two demands of
inventiveness and familiarity
First person - Sarah Alghamdi
No full textABSTRACT
First Person is a series of interviews with the first authors of a selection of papers published in Disease Models & Mechanisms, helping early-career researchers promote themselves alongside their papers. Sarah Alghamdi is first author on ‘ Contribution of model organism phenotypes to the computational identification of human disease genes’, published in DMM. Sarah is a PhD student in the lab of Robert Hoehndorf at King Abdullah University of Science and Technology, Thuwal, Saudi Arabia, investigating artificial intelligence, specifically knowledge representation and reasoning over biomedical data
Portrait of the English anthropologist Gregory Bateson, New Guinea, 1929 [picture] /
No full textPart of the collection: Sarah Chinnery photographic collection of New Guinea, England and Australia.; Gregory Bateson, famous English anthropologist, New Guinea research in Bainings and Sepik, eventually lived and worked in the United States. Author of "Naven" and other works. -- Accompanying notes from family.; Inscription: "1929" -- On label. "Gregory Bateson, 'Naven' and other works" -- In red ink.; Sarah Chinnery no.: Part 2.; Also available in an electronic version via the internet at: http://nla.gov.au/nla.pic-vn4506462
Portrait of the anthropologist Professor Hortense Powdermaker from Queens, New York, in New Guinea, 1929 [picture] /
No full textPart of the collection: Sarah Chinnery photographic collection of New Guinea, England and Australia.; Inscriptions: "Professor Hortense Powdermaker, (Queens N.Y., U.S.A.) 'Life in Lesso [i.e. Lesu]' and other works" --In red ink. "1929" -- In pencil.; Professor Hortense Powdermaker, American anthropologist 1929 research in Lesu, New Ireland, New Guinea. Author of "Life in Lesu" and other works. -- Accompanying notes from family.; Sarah Chinnery no.: Part 2.; Also available in an electronic version via the internet at: http://nla.gov.au/nla.pic-vn4506463
Portrait of Bill Harney the "Keeper of Uluru", Black Rock, Victoria, ca. 1955, 3 [picture] /
No full textPart of the collection: Sarah Chinnery photographic collection of New Guinea, England and Australia.; Bill Harney, Patrol Officer, Northern Territory. Later was keeper of Uluru, poet, author, at Chinnery's Black Rock home. -- Accompanying notes from family.; Condition: Scratched.; Also available in an electronic version via the internet at: http://nla.gov.au/nla.pic-vn4554174
Sarah Fielding: Satire and Subversion in the Eighteenth-Century Novel
No full textThis study of Sarah Fielding (1710―68) is an original contribution to Fielding scholarship that has a dual purpose: to support those who are striving to re-introduce her to the modern literary landscape in an effort to restore her eighteenth-century literary standing, and to firmly establish Fielding as an early feminist writer. It is argued here that throughout her oeuvre Fielding challenged prevailing traditions that denied women a choice, particularly in education, employment and marriage. These themes are also considered in the political treatises of Mary Astell (1666―1731) and Mary Wollstonecraft (1759―97), who are now widely recognised as feminist writers.
It is further argued that Fielding’s subversion in fiction of the English patriarchal system is underscored by her unorthodox performance in the literary arena. This is fully explored alongside her use of sentimentalism as a literary tool with which she challenges her seemingly inhumane society. Fielding’s interest in ‘the Labyrinths of the Mind’ (in modern terms, human psychology) will also be addressed as will her placement in the history of feminism and her placement in the sentimental novel tradition. Fielding’s performance as a literary critic will be compared with the few female authors who, like her, dared to publish literary criticism during her writing career. Accordingly, extracts from Fielding’s novels and her two critical pamphlets will be thoroughly examined.
An updated biography of Fielding that is also included here will provide evidence for a further claim, that her fiction is autobiographical in part. A comprehensive account of Fielding’s performance as a literary critic forms the final chapter of this work. It is the first full-length examination of her contribution to the genre and includes an appraisal of her recently unearthed critical pamphlet entitled A Comparison Between the Horace of Corneille and The Roman Father of Mr. Whitehead (1750) that is yet to be formerly attributed to her. Ultimately this study of Fielding will go far beyond what has previously been written about this remarkable eighteenth-century author, particularly regarding her feminist activity
MoDA Podcast Season 3, Episode 2, The empire at home
No full textAna Baeza Ruiz talks to Deborah Sugg Ryan and Sarah Cheang about how the British Empire shaped our everyday experiences of home
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