1,721,066 research outputs found

    The shanghai dandy: Men in the city

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    Styling Shanghai is the first book dedicated to exploring the city's fashion cultures, examining its growing status as one of the world's foremost fashion cities. From its origins as an international treaty port in the 19th century, Shanghai has emerged as a global leader in the production, mediation and consumption of fashion. This book reveals how the material and imaginative context of this thriving urban centre has produced vivid interpretations of fashion as object, image and idea. Bringing together contributions by a range of leading international fashion historians and theorists, and drawing on extensive original research, Styling Shanghai offers an interdisciplinary analysis of the mega-city's shifting position as a fashion capital. Rooted in collaboration between leading UK, Australian and Shanghai-based institutions, it considers the impact of local and global textile manufacturing, the representation and marketing of 'Shanghai Style', bodies and gender in the 'Paris of the East', and the challenges of globalization, commercialization and digital communication in contemporary Shanghai

    Introduction

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    Styling Shanghai is the first book dedicated to exploring the city's fashion cultures, examining its growing status as one of the world's foremost fashion cities. From its origins as an international treaty port in the 19th century, Shanghai has emerged as a global leader in the production, mediation and consumption of fashion. This book reveals how the material and imaginative context of this thriving urban centre has produced vivid interpretations of fashion as object, image and idea. Bringing together contributions by a range of leading international fashion historians and theorists, and drawing on extensive original research, Styling Shanghai offers an interdisciplinary analysis of the mega-city's shifting position as a fashion capital. Rooted in collaboration between leading UK, Australian and Shanghai-based institutions, it considers the impact of local and global textile manufacturing, the representation and marketing of 'Shanghai Style', bodies and gender in the 'Paris of the East', and the challenges of globalization, commercialization and digital communication in contemporary Shanghai

    Fashionable Masculinities in England and Beyond

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    The design, production, selling, and wearing of men’s clothing through the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries has had a significant impact on the visual culture and social experience of the modern world. It has also determined many of the underlying influences that have contributed to the development and expansion of fashion more generally, not just in terms of the shaping of men’s bodies, but also in relation to the dress of women and children. Yet its examination has been relatively neglected for most of the period we might associate with the rise of dress and fashion history as a serious focus of scholarship. It is only over the course of the past two decades that we have seen a flowering of journals, exhibitions, and monographs addressing the role played by the male wardrobe in the fashioning of social relations, taste, and the experience of modernity. My own doctoral work in the 1990s and related publications at the time drew on the ‘cultural turn’ and a re-focusing of the history of gender to consider the formation of masculinities in relation to patriarchy in a more nuanced way, revealing overlooked patterns of masculine consumption

    Reflections on three decades of studies in fashion theory

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    Come semiologa di formazione, mi sono avvicinata alla Fashion theory all’inizio della mia carriera accademica alla metà degli anni ‘80. Roland Barthes, l’autore che più amavo allora, aveva scritto nel 1967 il Sistema della Moda, un libro tanto bello quanto astruso che con la moda vera e propria non c’entrava molto, ma che dimostrava come essa fosse un sistema di produzione di senso, sia linguistico che sociale. La moda, insomma, esprime molto più del vestito, ed era, allora come adesso, questo “di più” ad affascinarmi. Incontrai così, con i sistemi esistenti all’epoca, cioè libri, riviste e posta cartacei, alcuni degli studiosi che già allora, prevalentemente in ambito anglosassone, stavano creando questo nuovo campo disciplinare: la Fashion theory. Molti di questi studiosi, tra i quali proprio tu, Chris, avrebbero contribuito nel 1997 alla costituzione dell’Advisory Board della rivista fondata e diretta da Valerie Steele che porta appunto questo nome: “Fashion Theory”. La data è emblematica: sono almeno 20 anni che la Fashion theory si è costituita come campo di ricerca internazionale, autonomo rispetto alla storia del costume e delle arti, autonomo anche rispetto alla vasta area degli studi culturali, di cui a mio parere costituisce comunque una componente essenziale

    Global History in the History of Fashion

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    Over the twentieth century, multi-disciplinary academic studies addressed dress practice and bodily adornment from a variety of perspectives, assessing the question of fashion, though few communities outside the West were awarded this term until the past generation. Anthropologists took an ethnographic stance, with works that from the late 1980s became more attentive to the lived significance of clothing that reflected ‘agency, practice and performance’ with local and global impact

    Data for paper "A homogenised model for a reactive filter"

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    Datasets for the graphs of numerical solutions. The data were created using MATLAB and COMSOL

    Eyes that see in the dark: nocturnal dinosaurs

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    With new fossils being discovered, new information about dinosaurs comes to light all the time. Just today, a study reveals evidence of dinosaurs adapted to hunt in the dark. Stig Walsh, an author on this study, illuminates further
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