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Suspending time in fashion : on grès, contemplating dress and glimpses of the sublime
No full textTese de doutoramento. Design. Universidade de Lisboa. Faculdade de Arquitetura. 2024Esta tese tem como objetivo apresentar um corpo de trabalho em torno da relação entre a moda e o conceito de tempo e, mais especificamente, a ideia de suspensão de tempo na moda. A investigação centrou-se no corpo de trabalho de Madame Grès que materializa a hipótese de um tempo suspenso. Madame Grès (1903-1993) trabalhou durante seis décadas no exclusivo mundo da alta costura Parisiense (inicialmente sob o nome de Alix), criando vestidos como se fossem esculturas vivas, sempre em busca do vestido ideal. Embora a sua obra seja muito mais vasta do que os ‘vestidos de deusa’ magistralmente drapeados, eles foram percepcionados como o seu arquétipo. O legado de Grès caracteriza-se pela busca incessante de uma estética absoluta, marcado pelo aperfeiçoamento do seu arquétipo ao invés de perseguir a novidade ou a mera repetição de modelos de sucesso em cada estação. A tese discute os longos vestidos drapeados realizados com um domínio técnico absoluto como uma profunda reflexão sobre a moda, o tempo e a memória, expressa no processo de fazer (o gesto infinito). No contexto do tempo, especificamente da duração, e através do arquétipo de Grès, a investigação reflecte sobre a presença da moda no museu. De que forma a exposição de artefactos de moda (o próprio objecto, a sua representação, a sua descrição ou a sua evocação) pode contribuir para representar materialmente a suspensão do tempo? Consequentemente, uma nova apreensão fenomenológica e estética do artefacto de moda emerge: afirmando-se como verdadeira corporização do efémero, a moda nega a sua transitoriedade inerente no momento da sua criação, memória ou de aparição enquanto objecto de contemplação. Numa brilhante ilusão, num momento fugaz, a moda parece suspender o tempo, oferecendo ao espectador uma sugestão de eternidade e do que a estética do Iluminismo definiu como sublime, termo designado para evocar sensações avassaladoras no contexto da arte. O momento de suspensão temporal – possível através da palavra escrita, de uma peça de vestuário, da fotografia ou de uma exposição – é o cerne do projecto aqui apresentado. Este foco permite articular o desenvolvimento teórico do projecto e a escrita da tese com a prática curatorial através da exposição Vivre sa Vie, Georges Dambier et la Mode / Viver a sua Vida, Georges Dambier e a Moda e da instalação sonora Robe-fantôme que oferecem uma realização espacial e material para os conceitos de moda, tempo, história e memória no contexto museológico.This thesis aims to deliver a body of work around the relationship between fashion and the notion of time, and more specifically the idea of suspending time in fashion. The investigation focused on Madame Grès’ body of work that materialized the hypothesis of temporal adjournment. Madame Grès (1903-1993) pursued a ceaseless quest for an absolute aesthetic in her designs, honing her archetypes rather than simply repeating successful designs for each season. The thesis discusses the long, draped dresses crafted with technical mastery as a profound reflection on fashion, time and memory within the process of making (the infinite gesture). In the context of time, specifically duration, and through Grès’ archetype, the investigation reflects on the presence of fashion in the museum. What can the public display of fashion artefacts (the object itself, its representation, its description or its evocation) contribute to materially representing the suspension of time? As a consequence, a new phenomenological and aesthetical apprehension of the fashion artefact emerges: ostensibly the cardinal embodiment of the ephemeral, fashion disavows its professed impermanence the moment it enters the museum as an object of contemplation. In a dazzling sleight of hand, within a fleeting moment, fashion seems to arrest time, offering the beholder a suggestion of eternity and what Enlightenment aesthetics termed the sublime, artfully designed to evoke strong sensations. The moment of temporal suspension—possible amidst words, in an item of clothing, in photography or in an exhibition – is the locus of the project here tendered. This focus connects the theoretical development of the project and the writing of the thesis with the curatorial practice through the exhibition Vivre sa Vie, Georges Dambier et la Mode / Viver a sua Vida, Georges Dambier e a Moda and the sound installation Robe fantôme that offers a spatial and material design for the concepts of fashion, time, history and memory in the museum space.N/
Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis
Get PDFThe present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation
counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings
are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that
only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into
account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed
Variations on the Author
Get PDF“Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship
Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis
Get PDFWe provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis
Dispelling the Myths Behind First-author Citation Counts
Get PDFWe conducted a full-scale evaluative citation analysis study of scholars in the XML research field to explore just how different from each other author rankings resulting from different citation counting methods actually are, and to demonstrate the capability of emerging data and tools on the Web in supporting more realistic citation counting methods. Our results contest some common arguments for the continued
use of first-author citation counts in the evaluation of scholars, such as high correlations between author rankings by first-author citation counts and other citation
counting methods, and high costs of using more realistic citation counting methods that are not well-supported by the ISI databases. It is argued that increasingly available digital full text research papers make it possible for citation analysis studies to go beyond what the ISI databases have directly supported and to employ more
sophisticated methods
O Colete Masculino do séc. XIX
No full textNo traje masculino do séc. XIX o colete apresentou-se como uma peça com grande expressão e transversal a todas as classes sociais. Esta peça era a única através da qual cada individuo poderia expressar o seu gosto pessoal, sendo o seu estudo uma espreitadela para a personalidade dos seus utilizadores.
Foram reunidas informações referentes à Moda do séc. XIX a partir de várias fontes para melhor compreender esta peça. Foram estudados textos, pinturas, gravuras e outros meios de comunicação, tanto contemporâneos à época a estudar como posteriores.
Tendo a oportunidade de o fazer, trabalhou-se com as peças da coleção do Museu Nacional do Traje, sendo a observação indireta o método utilizado para os estudar e, deste modo, conhecer melhor e de maneira mais autêntica esta tipologia de peça de roupaIn the men's attire of the 19th century the vest presented itself as a piece with great expression and transversal to all social classes. This piece was the only one through which each individual could express their personal taste, its study being a peek at the personality of his users.
Information was gathered regarding the fashion of the 19th century from various sources to better understand this piece of clothing. Texts, paintings, and other media were studied, both contemporary to the period studied and posterior.
Having the opportunity to do so, the pieces of the collection of the Museu Nacional do Traje were selected, and indirect observation was the method used to study them and, thus, apprehend better and in a more authentic way this typology of clothing.N/
koamabayili/VECTRON-author-checklist: VECTRON author checklist
No full textWe have done our best to complete the author checklist relating to the use of animals in the hut study. Note that the objective for the hut study was to evaluate the IRS treatment applications for residual efficacy against Anopheles mosquitoes, including the local An. coluzzii mosquito population. Cows were only used to attract mosquitoes into the huts and no tests were carried out directly on the cows. The author checklist is intended for use with studies where experiments are carried out on animals, which is why we have had such difficulty in completing this for the hut study, as many of the questions do not relate to how the cows were used
Author-wise bibliometric analysis based on entropy.
No full textAuthor-wise bibliometric analysis based on entropy.</p
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