1,720,956 research outputs found
From garment to knowledge: a triangulated methodological approach to practice-related research
Get PDFThis presentation explores a triangulation approach, employing three interconnected yet distinct methods: dress as object of evidence, remaking as research method, and embodied research as process of knowing. Triangulation in research refers to the use of multiple methods, data sources, or theoretical perspectives to explore a research question for improving the accuracy of a study. Aiming to break down the division between theory and practice, this approach addresses the potential of practice-based inquiry to inform and activate theoretical frameworks, while at the same time improving practical work with theoretical insights. ‘Dress as object of evidence’ involves the analysis of material culture, allowing for a rigorous examination of historical garments to revel techniques of constructions. This serves as a link between theory and practice by supporting hypothetical discussions of culture, labour, and identity in a tangible physical object. ‘Remaking as research method’, demonstrates how the process of reconstructing historical garments allows practitioners to engage with theoretical concepts such as materiality, gender, and social function, thus facilitating a better understanding of the relationship between historical theory and contemporary practice. ‘Embodied research as process of knowing’ engages with the remade garments in an experiential and sensory way, offering an embodied understanding of theory that cannot be captured through intellectual analysis alone. By triangulating these three methods, this framework demonstrates how the integration of practices can activate theory, expand knowledge, and contribute to a comprehensive understanding of both theoretical contexts and practical experiences
Remaking the Past
Get PDFIn this project with The Underpinnings Museum, I have replicated a 1941 Kestos bra. Alongside taking patterns from the original archival garment without causing any damage or requiring deconstruction, I also had to complete a number of other tasks: researching the chosen object, creating technical diagrams, sourcing materials and components, and finally stitching the garments as closely to the originals as was physically possible. This was challenging, considering that the machinery and materials used in the past are no longer produced today. This exhibition displays the original object alongside the reproduction, technical illustration, and digitised garment pattern
Cut, Construction and Silhouette: The practice of bespoke tailoring and shifting forms of identity in the early nineteenth century
No full textIn parallel with the development of early nineteenth century men’s social roles, the sartorial dandy style, with its elegance and neatness reflected in theories about ‘hygienic and dress’, opened new opportunities for men to dress and to ‘dictate taste’ for fashion. The wearing of plain, woollen, bespoke tailored clothing led to the need for improved construction and fit, which, in turn, stimulated the development of the already dominant London tailoring profession. The same period also witnessed the expansion of women’s social roles, not least when it came to horse riding and walking. In response, tailors took their techniques for constructing male fitted clothing to produce women’s walking habits alongside well-established garments for riding thus bringing together style and practicality. The style was deliberately masculine in its cut, construction, and silhouette. These developments contributed to the emergence of new social roles and meanings. Dandyism, alongside the craft of bespoke tailoring, therefore helped to break down established gender boundaries, offering new forms of identity for women and a route towards empowerment within a society where the male and female sex were understood to operate in separate spheres
Tailoring the Past: An Approach to Dress, Making, and Embodied Knowledge
No full textThis presentation examines how history can be constructed and made visible through design, using a methodology that brings together object analysis, making, remaking, and embodied research. Focusing on early- to mid nineteenth-century historical garments, this presentation explores how dress functions as material evidence and participant in the shaping of historical knowledge. This reflection positions design as a means of historical analysis by using three interconnected approaches: ‘dress as object of evidence’, ‘remaking as research method’, and ‘embodied research as process of knowing’. Together, these methods offer a way of accessing forms of historical understanding that are sensory, practice-based, and materially based. Through the examination of museum collection garments, historical tailoring techniques, and the experiential act of wearing remade clothing, this study highlights how the history of design is not only told through text, but also designed—using cut, construction, and movement. By engaging with the materiality of the past, this investigation challenges conventional historical narratives that neglect the labour, technique, and embodied knowledge embedded in clothing. It asks: what can made, or remade garments tell us that archival documents cannot? And how might historical research change when it is practiced through the hands and the body, rather than through the written word? This paper contributes to a growing discourse around practice informed design history, demonstrating how the relationship between design, making and theory can open new ways for understanding the past—not only as it was recorded, but as it was worn, made, and experienced
Going Beyond Counting First Authors in Author Co-citation Analysis
Get PDFThe present study examines one of the fundamental aspects of author co-citation analysis (ACA) - the way co-citation
counts are defined. Co-citation counting provides the data on which all subsequent statistical analyses and mappings
are based, and we compare ACA results based on two different types of co-citation counting - the traditional type that
only counts the first one among a cited work's authors on the one hand and a non-traditional type that takes into
account the first 5 authors of a cited work on the other hand. Results indicate that the picture produced through this non-traditional author co-citation counting contains more coherent author groups and is therefore considerably clearer. However, this picture represents fewer specialties in the research field being studied than that produced through the traditional first-author co-citation counting when the same number of top-ranked authors is selected and analyzed. Reasons for these effects are discussed
Variations on the Author
Get PDF“Variations on the Author” discusses two of Eduardo Coutinho’s recent films (Um Dia na Vida, from 2010, and Últimas Conversas, posthumously released in 2015) and their contribution to the general question of documentary authorship. The director’s filmography is characterized by a consistent yet self-effacing form of authorial self-inscription: Coutinho often features as an interviewer that rather than express opinions propels discourses; an interviewer that is good at listening. This mode of self-inscription characterizes him as an author who is not expressive but who is nonetheless markedly present on the screen. In Um Dia na Vida, however, Coutinho is completely absent form the image, while Últimas Conversas, on the contrary, includes a confessional prologue that moves the director from the margins to the center of his films. This article examines the ways in which these works stand out in the filmography of a director who offers new insights into the notion of cinematic authorship
Appropriate Similarity Measures for Author Cocitation Analysis
Get PDFWe provide a number of new insights into the methodological discussion about author cocitation analysis. We first argue that the use of the Pearson correlation for measuring the similarity between authors’ cocitation profiles is not very satisfactory. We then discuss what kind of similarity measures may be used as an alternative to the Pearson correlation. We consider three similarity measures in particular. One is the well-known cosine. The other two similarity measures have not been used before in the bibliometric literature. Finally, we show by means of an example that our findings have a high practical relevance.information science;Pearson correlation;cosine;similarity measure;author cocitation analysis
Dispelling the Myths Behind First-author Citation Counts
Get PDFWe conducted a full-scale evaluative citation analysis study of scholars in the XML research field to explore just how different from each other author rankings resulting from different citation counting methods actually are, and to demonstrate the capability of emerging data and tools on the Web in supporting more realistic citation counting methods. Our results contest some common arguments for the continued
use of first-author citation counts in the evaluation of scholars, such as high correlations between author rankings by first-author citation counts and other citation
counting methods, and high costs of using more realistic citation counting methods that are not well-supported by the ISI databases. It is argued that increasingly available digital full text research papers make it possible for citation analysis studies to go beyond what the ISI databases have directly supported and to employ more
sophisticated methods
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