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Aboveground Biomass Plant Tissue Chemistry in Old Woman Creek Estuary (Huron, OH)
No full textRunoff containing excess nutrients from agricultural land use causes eutrophic conditions in freshwater systems, including harmful algal blooms. The nutrient storage capacity of wetlands may help mitigate recurring annual harmful algal blooms that the Western Basin of Lake Erie experiences due to excess phosphorus (P) loads. Wetlands are hot spots of carbon (C), nitrogen (N), and P cycling, and wetland plants temporarily store C, N, and P. We investigate how plant tissue chemistry (total P, total organic C, and total organic N) varies by plant taxa and tissue type (leaf vs. stem) within a well preserved Lake Erie coastal wetland. In the summer of 2019, we sampled aboveground plant tissues of two plant types in the Old Woman Creek estuary wetland: emergent plants (Phragmites and Typha), and floating leaf plants (Nelumbo and Nymphaea) to measure total C, N, and P concentrations of plant biomass as an index of plant nutrient storage. We predict that the emergent plant types (Phragmites, Typha) will have higher C and N concentrations than the floating leaf plant types (Nelumbo, Nymphaea) due to their higher allocation to structural tissues like rigid stems. We also predict that there will be higher P concentrations in the leaf tissues than in the stem tissues of all plant types. Plant tissue chemistry improves understanding of nutrient storage capacity of different plant types, thus informing wetlands preservation and management decisions.</p
Phosphorus Sorption Capacity of Sediments in Constructed Urban Wetlands of Northeast Ohio
No full textExcess phosphorus (P) can lead to eutrophication of aquatic ecosystems and dead zones as recently seen in Lake Erie and the Gulf of Mexico. The potential for wetlands to remove phosphorus from the water column varies based on the mineral composition of the sediments, herbaceous cover, age of the wetland, surrounding land usage, as well as many other variables. Total iron concentration has been found to be a good predictor of P sorption capacity in best management practice urbanized wetlands. In the summer of 2019, I collected sediment samples from open water areas, Typha stands, and mud-flats in three constructed, urbanized wetlands on Kent State University’s campus. To better understand P sorption capacity in the three wetlands, I assessed the phosphate sorption, or “stickiness” of the sediment, with a phosphate sorption index assay. To determine the primary mechanisms of phosphorus retention in each wetland, I measured percent organic matter, total iron oxides, and the proportion of poorly-crystalline iron oxides. Preliminary analysis of PSI results shows the mud-flats and the Typha stands of the youngest wetland sorb the least amount of phosphate. Upon further analysis, I expect to find lower concentrations of total iron oxides and/or a lower proportion of poorly-crystalline iron oxides in these sediments. This information could help guide future construction of wetlands in urbanized areas to maximize phosphorus retention to prevent downstream pollution events
Brainchild 2020
No full texthttps://kent-islandora.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/node/10429/Pages%20from%20Brainchild2020.jp
Developing a Responsible Culture: Aligning Fashion and Textiles Education with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals
No full texthttps://kent-islandora.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/node/10438/10607-thumbnail.jpgIt is a pivotal time for fashion and textiles education. Concerns about ethical production and climate change, with the effect the industry has on the planet, is receiving intense media coverage. There are environmental consequences at each stage of a garment’s life cycle. These, combined with the rise of fast fashion over recent years, should make every citizen examine what positive changes they can make to reduce their environmental impact.
De Montfort University (DMU) is in the top 50 world universities for impact as assessed by the UN sustainable development goals (SDG). This paper presents initiatives taken by the School of Fashion and Textiles to consider how responsible design has been integrated into teaching. A baseline review of the current curricula compared to the 17 UN SDGs was undertaken. A funded innovation and sustainability project highlighted the different approaches students had taken to sustainable design. Joint initiatives with international partners consider the global perspective. This work continues with a review of key environmental activists and considers how the curriculum can be further co-created with students to address industry needs. Student engagement will be evaluated by reviewing the influence of sustainable development within final year major project proposals.</p
The T-Shirt: From Protest to Environmental Activism
No full texthttps://kent-islandora.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/node/10447/10618-thumbnail.jpgSince the mid-twentieth century, the T-shirt has been regarded as one of the most iconic symbols in fashion and culture. Indeed, it is cheap, classless and globally recognized, and is a key item in many people’s wardrobes. Low price points attributed to the fast fashion T-shirt make it an item available to all. However, this in itself raises questions regarding sustainability. This paper considers how, through its iconic status, the T-shirt can create opportunities for a more sustainable future by exploring the role that the T-shirt plays in encouraging individuals to become activists on a personal level. One of the ways they can do this is by wearing shirts displaying meaningful messages. This prompts the research question, ‘how effective is the T-shirt as a sign vehicle to promote environmental activism?”
Using research drawn from FashionMap, a garment archive housed in NTU’s School of Art and Design, the paper details how the T-shirt has evolved from a protest garment to a tool used by environmental activists. T-shirts which convey messages and signs through their design and typography were examined as communication tools, with a particular focus on protests and brand activism. Primary research using a focus group and wardrobe studies explore how participants respond to the T-shirt as personal expressions of courage, protest, and change. Findings demonstrate how social justice can impact on a personal level through the wearing of T-shirts.</p
Dowries of Kutch: Rabari Tradition
No full texthttps://kent-islandora.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/node/10453/10624-thumbnail.jpgMoti Bharat is a craft being practised by the various communities, residing in the western part of India, i.e. Kutch, Gujarat. Crafting among them is seen as more than producing personal and household articles; it is a celebration of skill and tradition passed down through generations.
The paper aims to analyse the dowry tradition practiced for generations which has now been discontinued within the Rabari community. Products created using craft skills form a major part of the dowry tradition which was a reflection of the skills and social status of the woman and the community. The craft which was once the pride of the community, drastically affected the life of the community, which led to the abolishment of the tradition and the decline in moti bharat craft in the Rabari community.
Both Primary and secondary data are used for this research. The tools used for the data collection included field observation, immersion, interviews, etc. Secondary research also included data available with government, non-government bodies, literature survey of libraries and studies that have been undertaken in the area and related subjects.
The paper presents the moti bharat embroidery tradition and adversities faced by the Rabari women and the community which led to the abolishment of the dowry tradition by the community. The present status of the Moti bharat craft, factors which led to the abolishment of dowry in reference to the Rabari community is also reflected in the study.</p
Kindred Bloom Collaboration
No full texthttps://kent-islandora.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/node/10462/10633-thumbnail.jpgThe Kindred Bloom project was created for the ‘Wearing Justice’ exhibit on view at the Kent State University Museum 2019-20. As we acknowledge the 50th Anniversary of the May 4th Kent State shootings, we find the parallels between the student activists in 1970 and contemporary youth activists pronounced. In the 1970’s young passionate students demonstrated against the American war in Vietnam and Korea by holding rallies and demonstrations. At the time of Kindred Bloom’s conception, we were again witnessing the mobilization of youth activists, this time urging leaders to address gun safety legislation. Immediately following the Marjory Stoneman Douglas school shooting on February 14th, 2018, the media outlets were publishing images of children responding angrily to the lack of gun laws. Some images featured children with friendship bracelets which were inherently made in the innocence of youth, displayed on the wrists of these children. Currently, youth are holding rallies to gain the attention of those in power and working on digital platforms such as Facebook and Twitter to grow a community of support. Our collaborative response to Kent State University’s commemoration of the May 4th event is a conceptual installation in which we imagine the youth activists of today utilizing folk-art-inspired art previously employed by their youth activist counterparts in the 1970’s to embellished their clothing to both communicate support and create/reinforce community.</p
Cotton Farming in India: Beacon of change in Exploitative Fashion and Textile Industry
No full texthttps://kent-islandora.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/node/10615/11257-thumbnail.jpg\u27Sutti Kapda\u27 (cotton fabric) symbolized a simple and modest way of life, epitome of civil non-corporation during the freedom struggle in colonial India is now struggling with its new identity in 21st century. The question arises what it truly represents in modern times. Although cotton is the world’s oldest commercial crop and one of the most important fiber crops in the global textile industry, it fails to focus on the entire supply chain to ensure safe working environment and a living income for the farmers. Less than 10% of the money paid for clothes ends up in the hands of the makers. Farmers are often left invisible, neglected and poor at the end of a long and complex supply chain.
The fiber-to-fabric production chain, from cotton processing through apparel, employs more than 12 million workers in India and provides 16% of export earnings. Many problems that are identified in cotton cultivation have led to diminishing yields and distress in cotton producing states in India; along with drought, increasing input costs and debt caused by high interest rates for loans from non-formal credit sources drove several framers to commit suicide in many regions. Another major issue is the toxicity induced in the local environment due to extensive dependency on pesticides to sustain the crop production.
Cotton cultivation needs to be sustainable, providing livelihood security to millions of marginal and small farmers in India. Numerous small initiatives to sustain; have begun at Niche level, this research attempts to document organizations (Khamir- supporting indigenous cotton cultivation) and brands (like Cotton Rack, Upasana) that are coming together to reposition cotton to uplift and secure the future. It reviews and analyses the practices of cultivation from past and present to build a better future resulting in saving the marginalized farmer working in the complex fashion system to support the demand of urban consumer.</p
Creating Asynchronous Virtual Field Experiences with 360 Video
No full texthttps://kent-islandora.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/node/10686/11449-thumbnail.jpgThe global COVID-19 pandemic has disrupted normal face-to-face classes across institutions. This has significantly impacted methods courses where preservice teachers (PSTs) practice pedagogy in the field (e.g., in the PreK-12 classroom). In this paper, we describe efforts to adapt an assignment originally situated in a face-to-face school placement into a virtual version. By utilizing multi-perspective 360 video, preliminary results suggest virtual field experiences can provide PSTs with similar experiences for observation-based assignments. Acknowledging that immersive virtual experiences are not a complete replacement for face-to-face fieldbased experiences, we suggest virtual field assignments can be a useful supplement or a viable alternative during a time of the pandemic.
Accepted version provided in institutional repository, for final publisher version, visit: https://www.learntechlib.org/primary/p/216115/</p
Indigenous practices and activism: Challenging the social algorithm in India
No full texthttps://kent-islandora.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/node/12112/77928-thumbnail.jpgHandcrafting in India was indigenous and intuitive. In due course, it became an effective tool for political and much later social justice. Mahatma Gandhi instilled the doctrines of Swadeshi, as part of his visionary path towards non-violence. This inspired the use of native products and empowered the rural masses. An immediate response to this was an enormous resistance towards foreign produces, fuelling the historic ‘Quit India Movement’, an incredible milestone in India’s struggle for freedom. A propel was witnessed post-independence in the Indian handloom and handicraft sectors, in the early 1950s. This, supported by the strategies of the new government, turned everyday objects (like the humble clothing) into agents of social change. Similarly, Khadi was not just an initiative to generate employment for the huge rural populace; it was a prelude to the gradual shift towards sustainable fashion, championed by fair trade and eco-friendly processes.
The research at hand uses ‘narrative enquiry’ both as a method and methodology. As the central idea of the paper follows “co-creation”, a participatory research approach becomes the natural course. Within the participatory model, the researcher conducted workshops with artisans and designers and exchanged dialogues with NGOs. It includes secondary data on ‘craftivism’ that stirs up debate around ‘social justice’ by deconstructing prevalent global discourses. These in India are inherently colonial, gendered and point towards the absence of social mobility for craft communities. The secondary data in the form of ‘case studies’ provides the much needed theoretical framework to study the contemporary practices in craft and how they could be applied in an India context. The study uses a multi-method approach comprising of in-depth interviews and ‘co-creation’ practices (with artisans and designers). The human stories of ground-breaking achievements by rural artisans provide an alternative insight in challenging the societal clichés while shaping the shifting ideas.</p