University of Zagreb
Repozitorij Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta Sveučilišta u ZagrebuNot a member yet
1305 research outputs found
Sort by
AESTHETICS OF CONTEMPORARY SPORT CLOTHING IN THE CONTEXT OF HYBRIDIZATION OF FASHION SILOETS OF THE 1950'S
No full textOvaj diplomski rad obrađuje temu „Estetika suvremene sportske odjeće u kontekstu hibridizacije modnih silueta 1950-ih godina“. Rad se bavi istraživanjem mode razdoblja 1950-ih godina i sportske odjeće suvremenog doba. Ovaj rad pokušat će dočarati mogućnosti oblikovanja današnje mode hibridizacijom dvaju suprotnih modnih izričaja koji su po svim odlikama različiti. Istraživat će utjecaj visoke mode na sportsku odjeću koja time postaje modna, a ujedno i funkcionalna. Cilj rada je pokazati koliko je moda prilagodljiva, promjenjiva, i koliko ima utjecaj u današnjem vremenu u kojem sve više dolazi do osuvremenjavanja modnih trendova prošlog stoljeća.This master theses will work on subject „The aesthetics of contemporary sportswear in the context of the hybridization of fashion silhouettes in the 1950´s“. It will be exploring the fashion of the 1950´s and the sportswear of modern times. This paper will attempt to evoke the possibilities of shaping today's fashion by hybridizing two opposite fashion expressions that are different in all their qualities. It will explore the impact of high fashion on sportswear that becomes fashionable as well as functional. The aim of this paper is to show how adaptable, changeable, and how influential it is in the present day, when more and more modern trends are being updated from the last century
DESIGN OF WORK METHODS IN THE TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF SEWING
No full textU doktorskom radu istraživane su radne metode i opterećenje radnica u tehnološkom procesu šivanja. U okviru istraživanja razrađeni su i postavljeni standardni sklopovi pokreta pomoćno ručnih zahvata tehnoloških operacija šivanja primjenom MTM (Method Time Measurement) sustava unaprijed određenih vremena. S obzirom na veličinu izratka, položaj svežnjeva, zakrivljenost i duljinu šava te način polaganja krojnih slojeva, za zahvat uzimanja razrađeno je i postavljeno deset načina izvođenja. Za zahvat međusobnog postavljanja razrađeno je pet načina, a za zahvat pozicioniranja tri načina izvođenja. U tehnološkom zahvatu šivanja razrađene su četiri načina vođenja izratka, tri načina učvršćivanja šava, četiri načina odsijecanja konca, četiri načina vođenja primjenom pomoćnih naprava, pet načina izvođenja zahvata tijekom prekida šivanja. Za zahvat odlaganja izratka razrađena su tri načina izvođenja te devet načina izvođenja pratećih pokreta. Pojedini pomoćno ručni zahvati sadržani u tehnološkoj operaciji šivanja prikazani su kao mogući standardni sklopovi pokreta ovisno o veličini izratka, oblikovanju radnih mjesta, veličini i obliku radnih površina te stupnju tehničke opremljenosti šivaćih strojeva. Vrijeme strojno-ručnog zahvata šivanja ravnih i zakrivljenih šavova utvrđeno je primjenom RAV i ZAK metode. Primjenljivost definiranih standardnih sklopova pokreta istražena je snimanjem i analizom karakterističnih operacija šivanja muškog sakoa u realnim sustavima proizvodnje. Za snimljene tehnološke operacije napravljena je analiza metode rada, tlocrtni prikaz oblikovanog radnog mjesta, određen vremenski normativ, utvrđeni parametri radne okoline (temperatura, relativna vlažnost, osvjetljenje, buka i dr.), utvrđena su radna opterećenja primjenom OWAS metode i analiza stanja radnog mjesta pomoću OADM metode. Napravljena je MTM analiza korištenjem standardnih sklopova pokreta za pomoćno ručne zahvate koji su definirani u okviru doktorskog rada te uz primjenu RAV i ZAK metode za strojno-ručne zahvate šivanja izračunata su vremena izvođenja tehnoloških operacija. Kako bi se ubrzao i olakšao proces izračunavanja normalnih vremena i vremenskih normativa, temeljem prikupljenih rezultata istraživanja, napravljeno je programsko rješenje u programu Microsoft Access®, za koje je prethodno izvršeno hijerarhijsko cikličko strukturiranje modela sklopova pokreta i elementarnih pokreta za obradu i pohranu unutar relacijskih baza podataka. VI Temeljem provedenih istraživanja, sustavne analize prikupljenih podataka i dobivenih rezultata, dokazana je primjenljivost definiranih sklopova pokreta zahvata tehnoloških operacija šivanja korištenjem MTM metode u realnim sustavima proizvodnje odjeće.The doctoral thesis analyses the working methods and workload of workers in the technological sewing process. As part of the research, standard sets of motions of hand suboperations of technological sewing operations using the MTM (Method Time Measurement) system of predetermined times were developed and set up. Considering the size of the workpiece, the position of the bundles, the curvature and length of the seams, the arrangement of the workpiece layers and the method of laying the cutting layers, ten execution methods were developed for the taking suboperation. Five methods were developed for the suboperation of putting together, and three execution methods for the suboperation of positioning. In the technological suboperation of sewing four methods of workpiece guidance, three methods of seam bartacking, four methods of thread cutting, four methods of guiding using auxiliary devices and five methods of performing the suboperation in case of sewing interruption were developed. For the suboperation of laying off the workpiece three execution methods and nine methods of auxiliary motions were developed .Individual auxiliary hand suboperations contained in the technological sewing operation are presented as possible standard sets of motions depending on the size of the workpiece, the design of workplaces, the size and shape of work surfaces and the level of technical equipment of sewing machines. The time of the machine-hand suboperation of sewing straight and curved seams was determined by the application of the RAV and ZAK methods. The applicability of the defined standard sets of motions was investigated by recording and analysing the characteristic operations of sewing a men's jacket in real production systems. For the recorded technological operations, an analysis of the working method was performed, floor plan of the designed workplace was given, time norm, parameters of the working environment (temperature, relative humidity, lighting, noise, etc.) and workloads using the OWAS method and analysis of the workplace using the OADM method were determined. MTM analysis was performed using standard sets of motions for auxiliary hand suboperations defined in the doctoral thesis, and using RAV and ZAK methods for machine-hand sewing suboperations, the times of performing technological operations were calculated.. In order to speed up and facilitate the process of calculating normal times and time norms, based on the collected research results, a software solution was created in Microsoft Access®, for which a hierarchical cyclic structuring of models of set of motions and elementary motions for processing and storage within relational databases was previously performed. VIII Based on the conducted research, systematic analysis of the collected data and the obtained results, the applicability of the defined sets of motions of technological sewing operations using the MTM method in real clothing production systems has been proven
Improved Dye Removal Ability of Modified Rice Husk with Effluent from Alkaline Scouring Based on the Circular Economy Concept
No full textTo improve the ability of the rice husk to purify colored wastewater, effluent from the
alkaline scouring of cotton yarn was used immediately after the scouring (without cooling and
additionally added chemicals) in order to remove the non-cellulosic silicon-lignin shield from the
rice husk’s surface. This rice husk, with 93.8 mg/g adsorption capacity, behaves similarly as the rice
husk treated with an optimized alkaline scouring recipe consisting of 20 g/L NaOH, 2 mL/L
Cotoblanc HTD-N and 1 mL/L Kemonecer NI at 70 °C for 30 min with an adsorption capacity of
88.9 mg/g of direct Congo red dye. Treating one form of waste (rice husk) with another (effluent
from the alkaline scouring of cellulosic plant fibers), in an effort to produce a material able to purify
colored effluent, is an elegant environment-friendly concept based on the circular economy
strategy. This will result in a closed-loop energy-efficient process of the pre-treatment of cotton
(alkaline scouring), modification of rice husk using effluent from the alkaline scouring, dyeing
cotton fabrics and cleaning its colored effluents with modified rice husk without adding chemicals
and energy for heating
Aesthetic Role of Correct Folds in Shaping a Fashion Silhouette
No full textCilj rada je osmisliti kolekciju modne plisirane odjeće u siluetama, A, X, Y, I. Istražena je povijest plisirane tkanine, njene promjene kroz stoljeća i kroz modne izričaje. Prikazane su tehnike različitih vrsta nabora. Također je istražena suvremena moda plisirane odjeće, načini dizajniranja i u kojim se oblicima odjevni predmeti sve mogu pojaviti.The goal of this paper is to design a fashion collection using pleats in different siluethes (A, X, Y, I). The paper covers history of pleating and changes the technique has gone through thru centuries and periods. Also a small study of contemporary fashion has been conducted regarding most prominent designers of today and their technique
Egipat - inspiracija za tekstilnu etno kolekciju s primjenom u interijerima
No full textPopularni trend inspiracije poznat je od kada postoji i sama umjetnost. Inspiracija je nešto što proizlazi iz svakog čovjeka , te ima moć koja je vezana uz sva ljudska stvaranja ili promjena već nečeg postojećeg. Istraživanje Egipta od prošlosti do danas poslužilo je kao pokretač stvaranja etno kolekcije s primjenom u interijerima. Karakteristike dekorativnih tkanina od davnina su ravne i jasne linije, simetričnost te dodatni elementi novčići ili resice koji krase tkanine te se primjenjuju i danas. Svako djelo bilo to ples, film, muzika, i sl. dolazi od već postojećeg te je od toga stvoreno nešto slično ili nešto posve drugačije. Ideja ovog rada razvijat će se kroz modernu izvedbu, kroz računalni program Adobe te će nastati etno kolekcija spremna za digitalni tisak na tkaninu koja će krasiti interijer nekog prostora. Kolekcija u ovom radu stvorena je u svrhu izrade jastučnica i promotivnog materijala koji služe za plasiranje gotovog proizvoda na tržište. Teorijski dio bavit će se tradicijom koja je povezana sa Egiptom i modnim revijama koje su također bile pod utjecajem Egipta. Jedna od njih je poznata modna revija Chanel 2018/2019 održana u Met muzeju za umjetnost koju je kreirao dizajner Karl Lagerfeld. Objasnit će se postupak izrade u računalnim programima koji su ključni izvor za pripremu digitalnog tiska koji će se također razraditi u radu te na taj način proizvod će biti spreman za plasiranje na tržište
Expanding Thermal Insulation Chambers
No full textThe paper presents the investigation of thermal properties of thermal insulation chambers as an actuator in intelligent clothing, having the property of automatically adjusting thermal protection level. The chambers are designed to vary their thickness based on the pressure of the inflated air in them. The pressure value measured in the thermal insulation chamber gives the microcomputer information on the thickness of the chamber. The paper presents the investigation of the functional dependencies of changes in the thickness of the chambers on the air pressure in them and the thermal resistance depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation chamber. Experimental thermal insulation chambers were made and integrated into an intelligent article of clothing and filled with air of 0-70 mbar, whereby chamber thicknesses of 0-25 mm were measured. Next, thermal resistance of 0.1876-0.5022 m2 KW-1 was measured on the thermal manikin. It was found out that the ratio of thermal insulation of non-activated to maximally activated chambers was 1:2.7. Research has shown good results for the area where intelligent clothing can automatically adjust its thermal insulation properties. The technical systems described represent a suitable basis for experiments and scientific research during the introduction of intelligent clothing with active thermal protection into human life. The third generation prototype shows very good properties from the aspect of automatic control of thermal protection in intelligent clothing. This forms the basis for further research. Cold protections have always been carried out by wearing garments with higher or lower thermal protection as well as wearing multiple layers of clothing. The conceptual starting point of the development of intelligent clothing is the development of an adaptive insulation layer with changeable thickness in the form of thermal insulation chambers filled with air. This way layered clothing as well as the use of several clothing layers can be avoided. Thus, one intelligent article of clothing regulating its thermal insulation properties can be used in a wide range of cold weather in the environment of the wearer
STREET FASHION AS AN INSPIRATION FOR DESIGNING A CLOTHING COLLECTION
No full textOvaj završni rad se bavi istraživanjem pojma ulične mode i njezinim utjecajem na modne trendove i visoku modu, te postaje inspiracija za projektiranje kolekcije odjeće. Cilj ovog završnog rada je pokazati utjecaj ulične mode u oblikovanju vlastite kolekcije. Prvi dio donosi pregled što to zapravo čini uličnu modu, kada se pojavila i iz kojeg razloga postoji. Dotiču se bitni segmenti i pojmovi koji su povezani uz uličnu modu, njihova povijest i uzroci nastanaka. U radu su prikazane glavne karakteristike i elementi ulične mode kao i glavni predstavnici i vodeći dizajneri u tom području. Analiziran je rad i utjecaj navedenih dizajnera na uličnu i visoku modu. U drugom dijelu rada prikazana je autorska kolekcija pod nazivom ''ATARAxIA'' od razrade teme do konstrukcije i modeliranja odabranog modela.This final thesis is about exploring the concept of street fashion and its impact on fashion trends and high fashion, and it becomes the inspiration for designing a clothing collection. The aim of this final thesis is to show the impact of street fashion in developing one's own collection. The first part gives an overview of what street fashion really is, when it came out, and for what reason it exists. The relevant segments and concepts related to street fashion, their history and causes are touched upon. The paper presents the main features and elements of street fashion as well as the main representatives and leading designers in the area. The work and impact of these designers on the street and high fashion has been analyzed. The second part of the paper presents an author's collection called '' ATARAxIA '' from topic development to construction and modelling of the selected model
Designing a collection of clothing inspired by the person and work of ban Jelačić
No full textDiplomskim radom obuhvaćeno je istraživanje, dizajn, projektiranje, konstrukcija, crteži i izrada modela te prikaz krojeva, proces krojenja, izrada programa u specijaliziranom softverskom programu Willkommen i izrada uzorka veza na Tajima stroju za vez. Rad se sastoji od dva dijela. Prvi dio je istraživanje života i rada bana Josipa Jelačića, a drugi je dio eksperimentalni, nastao na temelju istraživanja. Kao rezultat rada prikazana je mini kolekcija odjevnih predmeta nazvana Urbana banica.
Inspiracija za prikazanu žensku kolekciju odjeća je hrvatskoga bana Josipa Jelačića uz bogatstvo tradicionalnih nacionalnih motiva. U diplomskome se radu, osim odjevnih predmeta, nalaze i modni dodaci; crvenkapa, torba, lepeza koji dodatno oplemenjuju sam rad.This thesis encompasses research, design, project, construction, drawings and sewing of models.
It also depicts the process of cutting and creating an embroidery pattern via the specialized software program Willkommen as well as sewing of the pattern with the Tajima embroidery machine.
The Thesis consists of two parts. First part is dedicated to exploring the work and persona of ban Jelačić, while the second part is an experimental one composed on the basis of previous research. As a result we are showing a collection of garments called Urbana Banica.
This female collection was inspired by the clothing of Croatian ban Jelačić with a plethora of traditional national motifs. In addition to the garments themselves and to give more depth, the thesis includes accompanying accessories such as the traditional red hat, bag and a fan
Spider silk - spinning system and fiber properties
No full textZahvaljujući modernoj tehnologiji 21. stoljeća, današnjim znanstvenicima omogućava se inovativna potraga za novim tekstilnim materijalima kojima će se moći zadovoljiti različite ljudske potrebe. S napretkom tehnologije i interesom za kvalitetnija i izdržljivija vlakna, pojavio se veliki interes za umjetno sintetizirana paukova vlakana sa sličnim svojstvima kao izvorna paukova vlakna. Vlakna paukove svile karakterizira izvrsna mehanička svojstva izuzetne finoće te odličnom apsorpcijom kinetičke energije što omogućava široku paletu područja primjene.
U ovom završnom radu prikazat će se paukov sustav ispredanja koji omogućava dobivanje vlakana iznimnih svojstava proizvedenih na ekološki povoljan način te analiza paukovih vlakana i međusobna komparacija njihovih svojstava ovisno o vrsti pauka.Because of the modern technology of the 21st century, today's scientists are enabled to innovatively search for new textile materials that will be able to satisfy different human needs. With advances in technology and interest in higher quality and more durable fibres, great interest has appeared for artificially synthesized spider fibres with similar properties as the original spider fibres. Spider silk fibres are characterized by excellent mechanical properties and fineness and excellent absorption of kinetic energy, which enables a wide range of applications. In this final paper, the spider-spinning system will be presented, which enables the production of fibres with exceptional properties produced in an environmentally friendly manner, as well as the analysis of spider fibres and the mutual comparison of their properties depending on the type of spider
Kvaliteta vune ovaca s područja Gospića
No full textIako je Gospić i okolica te Lika općenito stanište ličke pramenke (tronamjenska ovca; mlijeko-meso-vuna), poslijeratna obnova stočnog fonda sve do nedavno nije poticala obnovu stada autohtone ličke pramenke. Za očekivati je da je tijekom godina nesustavnog križanja i često netradicionalnog uzgoja ovaca na području Gospića došlo i do promjena u kvaliteti vune ovaca s tog područja. Cilj ovog diplomskog rada bio je istražiti stvarnu, sadašnju kvalitetu vune s Gospićkog područja, s naglaskom na vunu autohtone ličke pramenke kao genetski definiranog soja.Although Gospić, its surroundings as well as and Lika are generally the territory of Lika`s pramenka (three-purpose sheep; producing milk-meat-wool), until recently, the post-war renewal of livestock did not encourage the renewal of the autochthonous Lika`s pramenka. That is why it is to be expected, that years of unsystematic crossbreeding and often non-traditional sheep breeding led to the changes of the sheep wool quality in the area of Gospić. The aim of this work was to investigate the real, present quality of wool from the Gospić area, with an emphasis on the wool of the autochthonous Lika`s pramenka as a genetically defined sheep sub-breed