University of Zagreb
Repozitorij Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta Sveučilišta u ZagrebuNot a member yet
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THEORETICAL AND VISUAL ASPECTS OF RESEARCH OF SOCIALLY IMPORTANT TOPICS OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY IN FASHION MAGAZINES
No full textModna industrija usko je povezana s kulturnim, društvenim i političkim pitanjima. Svrha ovog rada je ispitati koliko su ta pitanja obuhvaćena na naslovnicama modnih časopisa, ali i u modnim časopisima općenito. Rad započinje prvim teorijskim dijelom i definiranjem nekoliko ključnih pojmova koji su ključni za razumijevanje teme. U drugom dijelu rada osim interpretiranja značenja naslovnica, analiziraju se fotografije promatrajući modele, odjeću, govor tijela, izraze lica, ali i pozadinu, boje, kontrast itd. Rad stavlja u odnos naslovnice časopisa nekada naspram naslovnica danas te ondje gdje je moguće ih povezuje i uspoređuje. U trećem, praktičnom dijelu rada kreiran je modni editorial inspiriran naslovnicama koji simbolizira jedinstvo i zajedništvo te slavi različitosti među individualcima koji su se našli ispred objektiva.The fashion industry is closely related to cultural, social and political issues. The purpose of this thesis is to examine the extent to which these issues are covered on the covers of fashion magazines, but also in fashion magazines in general. The thesis begins with the first theoretical part and the definition of several key concepts that are essential for understanding the topic. In the second part of the thesis, in addition to interpreting the meaning of the covers, the photographs are analyzed by observing the models, clothes, body language, facial expressions, but also the background, colors, contrast, etc. The thesis compares the magazine covers of the past with the covers of today and, where possible, connects them and compares. In the third, practical part of the thesis, was created a fashion editorial inspired by the covers that symbolizes unity and togetherness and celebrates the differences among the individuals who found themselves in front of the lens
Technological processes of garment finishing
No full textNastavni materijali Tehnološki procesi dorade odjeće pripremljeni su u e-obliku za objavu na mrežnim stranicama Sveučilišta u Zagrebu Tekstilno-tehnološkom fakultetu u okviru sučelja Merlin. Dorada odjeće pripada završnoj tehnološkoj fazi proizvodnje odjevnog predmeta pri čemu on dobiva završni izgled i svoja svojstva. Za doradu odjeće, kao sastavnog dijela proizvodnog procesa, nužna je opremljenost kvalitetnim strojevima, uređajima i ostalom opremom kako bi se ispravile manje pogreške tijekom krojenja i šivanja odjeće te postigla visoka kvaliteta završne obrade. Nastavni materijali imaju slijedeći sadržaj: Uvod; Što obuhvaćaju tehnološki procesi dorade odjeće?; Priprema odjevnih predmeta, strojeva i opreme; Završno glačanje i najsuvremeniji strojevi i uređaji; Našivanje gumbi; Sastavljanje višedijelnih odjevnih predmeta; Razvrstavanje odjeće i završna kontrola; Opremanje i otprema odjeće; Zaključak; LiteraturaTeaching materials Technological processes of garment finishing have been prepared in e-form for publication on the website of the University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology in the Merlin interface. Garment finishing belongs to the final technological stage of the production of clothing item, during which it acquires its final appearance and properties. For the garment finishing, as an integral part of the production process, it is necessary to be equipped with quality machines, devices and other equipment in order to correct minor mistakes during the cutting and sewing of clothes and to achieve a high quality finish. Teaching materials have the following content: Introduction; What are the technological processes of garment finishing?; Preparation of clothing items, machinery and equipment; Final ironing and state-of-the-art machines and devices; Sewing buttons; Assembling multi-piece clothing items; Sorting of garments and final control; Labelling and shipping of garments; Conclusion; Literature
IMPACT OF PHYSICO-CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF ANTI-REDEPOSITION AGENTS ON THE ZETA POTENTIAL OF WASHED COTTON MATERIALS
No full textDerivati celuloze i škroba, natrijeva karboksimetil celuloza (CMC) i natrijev karboksimetil škrob (CMS) istraženi su kao modifikatori površine i inhibitori posivljenja u procesu pranja standardne pamučne tkanine u tvrdoj i mekoj vodi pri različitim temperaturama. Odabrani polimeri su karakterizirani određivanjem stupnja supstitucije (DS), viskoznosti i morfološkim značajkama. Istraživanje je koncipirano kroz analizu utjecaja mehanike, kemije i temperature kao čimbenika Sinner-ovog kruga procesa pranja pri temperaturama 40 °C, 60 °C i 90 °C na svojstva pamučne tkanine. Utjecaj mehanike je praćen u dva procesna sustava različitih hidrodinamičkih performansi, a kemijski utjecaj varijacijom sastava kupelji u tvrdoj i mekoj vodi, pri čemu su deterdžentu dodani CMC, CMS, njihova mješavina (CMC+CMS), CMC niske viskoznosti (CMC LV) i CMC visoke viskoznosti (CMC HV). Pamučne tkanine prije i nakon 10 ciklusa pranja su karakterizirane preko sadržaja rezidualnih tvari, primjenom skenirajuće elektronske mikroskopije (SEM), skenirajuće elektronske mikroskopije s elementarnom analizom (SEM-EDS) i infracrvene spektroskopije s Fourierovom transformacijom (FTIR). Primijenjeni polimeri u sastavu deterdženta analizirani su kroz potencijal modifikacije površine pamučne celuloze i inhibiranje prijelaza prljavštine sa standardnih donora zaprljanja na modificirane i nemodificirane pamučne tkanine. Stupanj modifikacije pamučne tkanine u procesu pranja deterdžentom uz dodatak odabranih polimera dodanih deterdžentu u tvrdoj i mekoj vodi pri navedenim temperaturama praćen je mjerenjem potencijala strujanja u ovisnosti o pH kalijevog klorida iz kojeg je određen zeta potencijal. Dobiveni rezultati zeta potencijala i sadržaja rezidualnih tvari standardnih pamučnih tkanina prije i nakon pranja ukazali su na razlike između pojedinih polimera, te na svrhovitost provedbe hijerarhijske klasterske analize u ocjeni potencijala primijenjenih polimera u modifikaciji površine obzirom na složenost procesa pranja i potrebu povezivanja pojedinih parametara Sinner-ovoga kruga. Odnos naboja površine pamučnih tkanina opranih u laboratorijskom uređaju u tvrdoj i mekoj vodi pokazuje da CMC HV u svim analiziranim uvjetima tvrdoće vode i temperature ima najveći potencijal modifikacije, odnosno najviše povećava negativnu vrijednost zeta potencijala pamučne tkanine.Cellulose and starch derivatives, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) and sodium carboxymethyl starch (CMS) were investigated in the washing process as surface modifiers of standard cotton fabric and antiredeposition agents in hard and soft water at 40 °C, 60 °C and 90 °C. Selected polymers were characterized by determining the degree of substitution (DS), viscosity and morphological characteristics. The research was conceived through the analysis of the influence of mechanics, chemistry and temperature as factors of the Sinner cycle of the washing process at temperatures of 40 °C, 60 °C and 90 °C on the properties of cotton fabric. The influence of mechanics is monitored through two process systems of different hydrodynamic performances. The chemical effect was monitored through the largest number of variations in the composition of the bath in hard and soft water, CMC, CMS, their mixture (CMC + CMS), CMC low viscosity (CMC LV) and CMC high viscosity (CMC HV) added to the detergent. The applied polymers were analyzed through the potential of modifying the surface of cotton cellulose and inhibiting the depostion of stain from standard donors to modified and unmodified cotton fabrics. The degree of modification of cotton fabric in the washing process with detergent and selected polymers added to detergent in hard and soft water at selected temperatures was monitored by measuring the streaming potential from which the zeta potential was determined. The surface charge of cotton fabrics before and after modification in washing was measured in electrolyte solution, 0.001 mol / L KCl through a titration procedure from alkaline to acidic media. The obtained results of zeta potential and residual matter content of standard cotton fabrics before and after washing indicated differences between individual polymers, and the expediency of hierarchical cluster analysis in assessing the potential of applied polymers in surface modification. Cotton fabrics before and after 10 wash cycles were characterized by residual substance content, using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The ash values for cotton fabrics washed in hard water depend on the washing conditions, and generally are 6 to 10 times higher than the ash values of cotton fabrics washed in soft water. The generation of incrustations in hard water and deposition on the surface of cotton fabrics at 60 °C and 90 °C is higher compared to 40 °C, which confirms the insufficient potential of the builder to bind alkaline earth ions at 60 °C and 90 °C. A review of all results shows that the high degree of water hardness and washing temperature have a dominant influence on the total ash content of washed cotton fabrics. A comparison of the values of ash from fabrics washed with detergent of different composition in hard water at all temperatures with the values of ash from cotton fabrics washed only in hard water indicates that washing with detergent affected the additional incrustations on the fabric surface, generally six times at 40 °C, eight times at 60 °C and almost quadruple at 90 °C. This can be attributed to the conditions of washing standard cotton fabric without soiling for 10 cycles with detergent, whose ingredients were not act to remove stain. Some organic components (soap and anionic surfactants) in the detergent in interaction with ions of alkaline earth ions generated moderately soluble and / or insoluble deposits, which burdened the surface of cotton fabric and increased the content of residual substances (total ash). Slightly lower values in total ash of cotton fabric washed in a laboratory washing machine compared to fabric washed in a laboratory device can be explained by a stronger mechanical and hydrodynamic effect when washed in a laboratory washing machine. Based on the obtained spectrograms, FTIR spectroscopy is not a suitable method for characterization of such a modified cotton fabric in different washing procedures. Washing with detergent in soft and hard water at different temperatures affects the changes in the zeta potential of cotton fabrics. The values were less negative compared to unwashed cotton fabric. Minor negative values may indicate the impossibility of complete dissociation of the active groups of cellulose. The detergent containing builders softened the water, while its other ingredients were not focused on the primary task – stain removal, but partly overloaded the cotton surface. The surface charge of a CMS-modified fabric in hard water at 60 °C is similar to the surface charge of a standard cotton fabric in a highly alkaline media. Based on the obtained ratios, it can be concluded that CMC as a modifier in detergent has a more favorable effect on increasing the negative charge of the surface of cotton fabric in soft water at 40 ° C and 60 °C. Zeta potential curves indicate a dominant influence of CMC in the CMC + CMS mixture over the CMS. Following the differences between the curves and the values of the zeta potential, it can be seen that polymer-modified cotton fabrics in soft water have a more negative surface charge compared to polymer-modified fabrics in hard water. Based on the obtained ratios, CMC as a polymer had the effect of increasing the negative charge of the surface of cotton fabric modified in soft water at 40 °C, 60 °C and 90 °C. Cotton fabrics modified with a CMC at 90 °C in hard water had a less negative surface charge compared to almost all other polymer-modified cotton fabrics. This is related to the influence of elevated temperature (90 °C) on the weaker potential of CMC, and not to the degree of deposits, since their content on the surface of detergent-modified fabrics with CMC at 40 °C, 60 °C and 90 °C in hard water is almost equal (0.84%; 1.01%; 1.49%), and soft water is low (from 0.20% to 0.27%). The polymers, CMC HV and CMC LV added to the detergent in the wash at 40 °C had the effect of increasing the negative charge of the cotton fabric, thus showing the highest degree of modification. The degree of settling of residual substances on the surface of fabric washed at 40 °C and 90 °C did not affect the orientation of the CMC HV, which confirmed the more negative charge of the cotton fabric surface. Exceptionally, in these conditions, the CMC HV polymer has the greatest potential for reducing the zeta potential, ie lower values compared to unwashed cotton fabric. The charge ratio of the surface of cotton fabrics washed in a laboratory device in hard and soft water showed that CMC HV in all analyzed conditions of water hardness and temperature had the greatest potential for modification, ie increased the negative value of the zeta potential of cotton fabric
Kreiranje uzoraka za tekstilne torbe inspiriranih stvaralaštvom hrvatskih umjetnika i realiziranih tehnikama ručnog taftanja i ručnog bojadisanja tekstila
No full textDiplomski rad pod nazivom ,,Kreiranje uzoraka za tekstilne torbe inspiriranih stvaralaštvom hrvatskih umjetnika i realiziranih tehnikama ručnog taftanja i ručnog bojadisanja tekstila'' sastoji se od likovnog dijela koji sadrži 30 idejnih rješenja uzoraka namijenjenih za tekstilne torbe i teoretskog dijela koji će obuhvatiti: analizu uzoraka koji se pojavljuju na tekstilnim torbama, analizu vlastitih radova iz likovne mape, osnovne podatke o tehnici ručnog taftanja za izradu uzoraka i slikovni prikaz mogućih primjena kreiranih uzoraka na tekstilnim torbama.The master's thesis entitled "Creation of patterns for textile bags inspired by the creativity of Croatian artists and realized with the techniques of hand tufting and hand dyeing of textiles" consists of an art part containing 30 conceptual solutions of patterns intended for textile bags and a theoretical part that will include: pattern analysis that appear on textile bags, analysis of own works from the art folder, basic information about the technique of hand tufting for making patterns and a pictorial presentation of possible applications of created patterns on textile bags
PERSONALITY AND FASHION - GALEN'S THEORY AS AN INSPIRATION FOR A FASHION COLLECTION
No full textOsobnost i moda - Galenova teorija u oblikovanju modne kolekcije diplomski je rad u kojem će se prikazati Galenova teorija o četiri temperamenta, primijenjena kao estetski obrazac oblikovanja u modnom dizajnu. Uz to će se obraditi i uloga boja u osobnosti i djelovanje boja na raspoloženje. Rad se bavi istraživanjem suodnosa pojmova mode i tipova osobnosti definiranih spomenutom teorijom. Kroz modnu kolekciju pod nazivom 4T+2, sastavljenu od šest odjevnih kombinacija nastalih pretežito tehnikom ručnog pletenja i tkanja, protumačit će se značaj boja u području modnog dizajna.Personality and fashion - Galen's theory as an inspiration for a fashion collection is a master's thesis that depicts Galen's theory of four temperaments, the importance of color in personalities and its effect on mood. The thesis deals with the research of the relationship between the concepts of fashion and personality types defined by the aforementioned theory. The significance of colors in the field of fashion design will be interpreted through the fashion collection called 4T+2, composed of six clothing combinations created mainly by the technique of hand knitting and weaving
Projektiranje pletiva inspiriranih biomimikrijom
No full textOvaj diplomski rad istražuje područje biomimetike u dizajnu tekstila posebno se fokusirajući na primjenu u svrhu stvaranja inovativnih uzoraka pletiva koji oponašaju forme pronađene u prirodi. Istražujući integraciju biomimetičkih principa u pletenje, ovaj rad ima za cilj rasvijetliti inovativne i održive mogućnosti koje se pojavljuju kada priroda postane mentor dizajna. Rad nadalje obrađuje integraciju biomimetičkih načela u uzorke pletiva što može dovesti do razvoja jedinstvenih tekstura, oblika i površina. Načela ću isprva objasniti na temelju usporedbi s formama koje pronalazimo u prirodi, a zatim i radova umjetnika poput Neri Oxman, poznate dizajnerice i arhitektice, koja istražuje raskrižja između prirode i tehnologije Iris Van Herpen, poznate po svojim avangardnim modnim kreacijama, koja često crpi inspiraciju iz organskih oblika pronađenih u prirodi i japanskog pionira pletiva, Isseya Miyakea. Ovo istraživanje pletaćih tehnika temelji se na nizu varijacija inspiriranim poroznim strukturama iz prirode, s posebnim fokusom na drvene i botaničke uzorke promatrane kroz mikroskopske leće. Kolekcija uzoraka pletiva izrađena je na ravnopletačem stroju i svi uzorci su napravljeni korištenjem obje iglenice, što ih čini dvostranim kulirnim pletivima
Seminars in Statistics in MS Excel
No full textOvaj priručnik prikazuje način rješavanja problema statističke analize podataka koji se proučavaju u sklopu kolegija „Statistika“ u svrhu njihove lakše analize pomoću programa MS Excel korištenjem statističkih funkcija ili alata „Analiza podataka“. Obrađuju se osnovni pojmovi deskriptivne statistike (grafički prikazi, mjere centralne tendencije i mjere raspršenosti podataka), i osnove inferencijalne statistike s težištem na linearnoj regresiji i testiranju hipoteza.This manual shows how to solve problems of statistical analysis that are studied as part of the course "Statistics" for the purpose of their easier analysis with the MS Excel software using statistical functions or the "Data Analysis" tool. The basic concepts of descriptive statistics (graphical representations, measures of central tendency and measures of dispersion) and the basics of inferential statistics with a focus on linear regression and hypothesis testing are covered
Reciklaža trapera u tekstilnom i modnom dizajnu
No full textU diplomskom radu istraživat će se reciklaža trapera i njegove mogućnosti primjene u dizajnu tekstila i odjeće. Proučit će se rad dizajnera tekstila i odjeće koji su radili u ovom materijalu te različiti pristupi i metode ponovne upotrebe ovog materijala u svrhu izrade unikatnih tekstila i odjeće. Stečeno znanje upotrijebit će se kao polazišna točka u autorskoj mini kolekciji odjeće izrađenoj od dijelova odjeće od trapera i traper materijala dorađenog intervencijama u različitim tekstilnim tehnikama.The diploma thesis will investigate the recycling of denim and its application possibilities in textile and clothing design. The work of textile and clothing designers who worked with this material will be studied, as well as different approaches and methods of reusing this material for the purpose of creating unique textiles and clothing. The acquired knowledge will be used as a starting point in the author's mini collection of clothes made from parts of denim clothes and denim material finished with interventions in different textile techniques
Usporedba dviju metoda određivanja klorida u prirodnim i otpadnim vodama
No full textIoni klorida su jedni od najčešće prisutnih anorganskih aniona u prirodnim i otpadnim vodama. Prevelike koncentracije klorida u prirodnim vodama mogu imati negativne učinke na žive organizme, a isto tako mogu oštetiti i metalne dijelove uređaja u tehnološkim procesima zbog pojave korozije. Također, povećana koncentracija klorida u prirodnim vodama ukazuje na onečišćenje kemijskim tvarima. Stoga je odgovarajućim analitičkim metodama potrebno pratiti sadržaj klorida u vodi za ljudsku potrošnju, u prirodnim vodama ali i u tehnološkim te otpadnim vodama. U ovome radu uspoređene su se dvije brze volumetrijske metode za određivanje klorida u navedenim uzorcima voda: merkurimetrijska i agrentometrijska (Mohrova). Određene su izvedbene karakteristike obiju metoda koje su se statistički međusobno usporedile. Za određivanje klorida nižih koncentracija prikladnija je merkurimetrijska metoda dok se za veće koncentracije argentometrijska metoda pokazala točnijom, ali i okolišno prihvatljivijom.Chloride ions are one of the most abundant inorganic anions in natural waters and waste waters. Excessive chloride concentrations in natural waters can have negative effects on living organisms and can also damage metal parts of equipment in technological processes through corrosion. In addition, increased chloride concentrations in natural waters indicate contamination with chemical substances. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the chloride content in water for human consumption, in natural waters, but also in technological waters and waste waters using appropriate analytical methods. In this work, two rapid volumetric methods for the determination of chloride in the aforementioned water samples were compared: mercurimetric and agrentometric (Mohrova). The performance characteristics of the two methods were determined and statistically compared. For the determination of chloride at lower concentrations, the mercurimetric method is more suitable, while the argentometric method proved to be more accurate at higher concentrations, but also more environmentally friendly
Patentni zatvarač kao estetski i funkcionalni element odjeće
No full textPatentni zatvarač prvobitno je osmišljen kao dio konstrukcije odjevnog predmeta koji služi bržem i lakšem oblačenju istog. Međutim, njegova se uloga nije zaustavila samo na funkcionalnosti pa je kroz povijest patentni zatvarač počeo dobivati i na estetskoj važnosti. U razradi teme navesti će se kratki povijesni razvoj patentnog zatvarača od trenutka kada je imao isključivo funkcionalnu ulogu do samog trenutka kada on postaje dio visoke mode te kako on kao takav može doprinijeti dizajnu odjevnog predmeta i njegovoj estetici. U eksperimentalnom dijelu rada, bit će predstavljena modna kolekcija ženske odjeće inspirirana patentnim zatvaračem primijenjenim u modi. U toj kolekciji patentni zatvarač će imati primarnu ulogu estetike ali će istovremeno biti naglasak i na njegovoj funkcionalnosti