University of Zagreb
Repozitorij Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta Sveučilišta u ZagrebuNot a member yet
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Neutral Organometallic Halogen Bond Acceptors: Halogen Bonding in Complexes of PCPPdX (X = Cl, Br, I) with Iodine (I2), 1,4-Diiodotetrafluorobenzene (F4DIBz), and 1,4-Diiodooctafluorobutane (F8DIBu)
The behavior of a sterically crowded neutral pincer {2,6-bis[(di-t-butylphosphino)methyl]-phenyl}palladium (PCPPd) halides, PCPPdX (X = Cl, Br or I), as XB acceptors with strong halogen bond (XB) donors, iodine (I2), 1,4-diiodotetrafluorobenzene (F4DIBz), and 1,4-diiodooctafluorobutane (F8DIBu) were studied in the solid state. The co-crystallization experiments afforded high-quality single crystals of XB complexes PCPPdClI2 (1a), PCPPdBrI2 (2a), PCPPdII2 (3a), PCPPdClF4DIBz (1b), PCPPdBrF4DIBz (2b), and PCPPdBr F8DIBu (2c). The 1:1 iodine complexes (1a, 2a, and 3a) all showed a strong halogen bonding interaction, the reduction of the sum of the van der Waals radii of halogen to iodine being 24.6 (1a), 23.9 (2a), and 19.4% (3a) with XII angles of 177, 176, and 179, respectively. While the pincer palladium chloride 1 and bromide 2 were crystallographically isomorphous and showed similar XB behavior, the palladium iodide complex, 3, exhibited markedly different properties, and unlike 1 and 2 it does not, under similar conditions, result in XB complexes with the weaker XB donors F4DIBz and F8DIBu. The results indicate that PCPPdI is not nucleophilic enough to have XB interactions with other donors than iodine. However, the weaker XB donors F4DIBz and F8DIBu form XB complexes with the chloride 1 and especially with the bromide 2. The prevalence of the halogen bonding with 2 is probably not only electronic in origin, and it seems to offer the best balance between electron poorness and steric availability. The XB interactions with F4DIBz and F8DIBu are much weaker than with iodine, the reduction of the sum of the van der Waals radii of halogen to iodine being 13.5, 12.3, and 14.6% with CIX angles between 163 and 179 for 1b, 2b, and 2c, respectively, and results in polymeric (1F4DIBz1F4DIBz)n, (2F4DIBz2F4DIBz)n, and (2F8DIBu2F8DIBu)n one-dimensional zigzag chains in the solid state
Benzylidene-bis-(4-Hydroxycoumarin) and Benzopyrano- Coumarin Derivatives: Synthesis, 1H/13C-NMR Conformational and X-ray Crystal Structure Studies and In Vitro Antiviral Activity Evaluations
We report on the synthesis of 4-hydroxycoumarin dimers 1-15 bearing an aryl substituent on the central linker and fused benzopyranocoumarin derivatives 16-20 and on their in vitro broad anti-DNA and RNA virus activity evaluations. The chemical identities and structure of compounds 1-20 were deduced from their homo- and heteronuclear NMR measurements whereas the conformational properties of 5, 14 and 20 were assessed by the use of 1D difference NOE enhancements. Unequivocal proof of the stereostructure of compounds 7, 9, 16 and 18 was obtained by single crystal X-ray diffraction method. The X-ray crystal structure analysis revealed that two 4-hydroxycoumarin moieties in the 4-trifluoromethylphenyl- and 2-nitrophenyl derivatives (compounds 7 and 9, respectively) are intramolecularly hydrogen-bonded between hydroxyl and carbonyl oxygen atoms. Consequently, the compounds 7 and 9 adopt conformations in which two 4-hydroxycoumarin moieties are anti-disposed. Antiviral activity evaluation results indicated that the 4-bromobenzylidene derivative of bis-(4-hydroxycoumarin) (compound 3) possesses inhibitory activity against HSV-1 (KOS), HSV-2 (G), vaccinia virus and HSV-1 TK- KOS (ACVr) at a concentration of 9-12 mM and at a minimum cytotoxic concentration (MCC) greater than 20 M. Compounds 4-6, 8, and 20 were active against feline herpes virus (50% effective concentration, EC50 = 5-8.1 M), that is at a 4-7-fold lower concentration than the MCC
Razvoj računalnog parametarskog prototipa odjevnog predmeta
U radu je prikazano cjelovito istraživanje i razvoj računalnog parametarskog modela, odnosno prototipa odjevnog predmeta po segmentima, u okviru kojih je bilo potrebno provesti ispitivanja i mjerenja primjenom suvremenih računalnih tehnologija i odgovarajuće mjerne opreme. U tom smislu početno je osmišljen likovni projekt modela ženske haljine, za koji je izvedena konstrukcija temeljnog kroja odabrane bazne veličine, a cjelovita daljnja razrada 2D kroja je izvedena primjenom 2D/3D CAD sustava konstrukcijske pripreme odjeće. Kako bi se verificirao modelirani kroj s aspekta dizajna i udobnosti nošenja, izvedena je računalna 3D simulacija modela odjevnog predmeta. U tu svrhu, prethodno su primjenom FAST mjernog sustava izmjerena mehanička svojstva materijala, za koji je u okviru eksperimentalnog dijela rada izvedena simulacija te su podaci pohranjeni u bazu podataka CAD sustava. Dalje je izvedena prilagodba mjera i držanja računalnog parametarskog modela tijela, u skladu s odabranom baznom odjevnom veličinom. Definirani su svi potrebni parametri simulacije te je njenom provedbom i analizom rezultata provedena verifikacija modeliranog kroja. Krojni dijelovi su računalno gradirani na temelju izračunatih vrijednosti pravila gradiranja, za odabrani niz odjevnih veličina. Primjenom laserskog 3D skenera tijela izvedeno je skeniranje, računalna analiza i antropometrijsko mjerenje tijela za tri ispitanice, različitih antropometrijskih karakteristika tijela. Na temelju utvrđenih rezultata, izvedena je prilagodba parametarskog modela tijela za sve tri ispitanice.
Najkompleksniji dio istraživanja odnosi se na iznalaženje matematičkih izraza, za prevođenje 2D krojnih dijelova iz vektorskog u parametarski oblik zapisa. U tom smislu, provedena je kompleksna analiza kroja modela, sa svrhom definiranja segmenata krojnih dijelova na kojima će se omogućiti izvođenje promjena vrijednosti mjera, sa svrhom računalne prilagodbe modelima tijela različitih antropometrijskih karakteristika. Verifikacija utvrđenih izraza, provedena je računalnim 3D simulacijama prilagođenih krojeva na parametarskim 3D modelima tijela ispitanica te sustavnom analizom postignutih rezultata, u smislu objektivne procjene pristalosti računalnog parametarskog modela odjevnog predmeta
THE SORPTION ABILITY OF TEXTILE FIBRES
Sorption capacity of textiles fibres for surfactants and water is discussed. Adsorption of surfactants is characterized through adsorption isotherms, adsorbed, desorbed and residual amount of ionic surfactants in variation of hydrophilic and hydrophobic part and concentration as well. Water sorption is expressed as moisture content and water retention value of textile fibres. Cationic and anionic surfactants are adsorbed on the cotton, wool, polyester and polypropylene fibres at 20C for 60 minutes. Desorption of surfactants is performed at 20C for 30 minutes. The results obtained indicate that the key parameters in adsorption process are concentration and composition of the surfactants, as well as the swelling capacity of textile fibres
UV Clothing and Skin Cancer
Skin cancer incidence in Croatia is steadily incresing in spite of public and govermental permanently measurements. It is clear that will soon become a major public health problem. The primary cause of skin cancer is believed to be a long exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The future designers of UV protective materials should be able to block totally the ultraviolet radiation. The aim of this paper is to present results of measurements concerning UV protecting ability of garments and sun-screening textiles using transmission spectrophotometer Cary 50 Solarscreen (Varian) according to AS/NZS 4399:1996; to show that standard clothing materials are not always adequate to prevent effect of UV radiation to the human skin; and to suggest the possibilities for its improvement for this purpose
SOL-GEL-DERIVED INORGANIC-ORGANIC HYBRID POLYMERS FILLED WITH ZNO NANOPARTICLES AS AN ULTRAVIOLET PROTECTION FINISH FOR TEXTILES
Despite the beneficial effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, radiation can cause sunburn, skin aging, allergies and even skin cancer. Textiles can provide effective protection against such damage. Unlike cosmetics, using textiles to protect the skin has only recently been researched. The design and modification of fabrics leading to a high protection against UV radiation is a relatively new application. It is important to consider the kinds of textiles to be used because most of the garments worn during summer, the time of highest exposure, are light and colourless materials that provide the lowest protection. Here, we report the synthesis and characterisation of nanosized zinc oxide particles known to absorb UV light. Sol-gel-based inorganic-organic hybrid polymers were modified with these particles and applied to cellulosic cotton (100%) and cotton/polyester (65/35%) fabrics. These modified inorganic-organic hybrids polymers were based on 3-GPTMS. The complete finishing sol prepared in this work has a marked long stability. The effectiveness of the novel finishing was determined by UV-visible spectroscopy to evaluate the UV protection factor. The influences of the finishing for general textile properties such as tensile strength, elongation, air permeability, degree of whiteness, wear resistance, stiffness and the durability of the treatments were investigated
THE FABRIC HAND OF ANTIMICROBIAL PROTECTED COTTON FABRICS USING ANTIBIOTICS AND ANTISEPTICS
Healthy and active lifestyle has led in recent years to the rapid development of antimicrobial treatment. Such antimicrobial materials provide lasting freshness and a sense of security and well-being of consumers. At first glance it seems easy to achieve antimicrobial properties, but the persistence of such treatment is a bigger problem. Application of natural zeolite nanoparticles for antimicrobial protection has shown increased activity and synergism with some antimicrobial agents, e.g. azalide. On the other hand, azalides are not acceptable from dermatological or ethics view, because of resistance development. This paper deals with the selection of optimal antimicrobial treatment which will provide protection against Gram positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and Gram negative (Klebsiella pneumoniae) bacteria, as well as fungi (Candida albicans). For this purpose, 100 % raw and bleached cotton knitted fabric was treated by exhaustion with natural zeolite nanoparticles and different antimicrobial agents cationic surfactant, azalide and antiseptic. It is well known that the cationic surfactants significantly improve fabric hand, but the high concentrations of activated zeolite getting it worse. Therefore, the influence of these treatments on fabric hand (subjective and objective evaluated) was investigated
THE INFLUENCE OF ULTRASOUND POWER TO SURFACE FUNCTIONALIZATION OF POLYESTER FABRIC
Modification of textiles for achieving multifunctional materials is one of the guidance for future textile development in Europe. As highly hydrophobic synthetic material, polyester fabric from poly(ethylene-terphthalate) (PET), is not comfortable. Surface modifications such are aminolysis and alkaline hydrolysis result in better comfort and other fabric properties, but unfortunately, produce huge amounts of textile wastewater. Therefore, textile wet processes assisted by ultrasound and natural zeolite are researched. The main chemical effect of ultrasound is free radicals formation, which react with each other to form new molecules and radicals, or diffuse into surrounding and serve as oxidants. On the other hand, natural zeolites increase the active surface area, leading to better adsorption, and contribute to antimicrobial, UV, heat, flame and radioactive protection. In this paper, for better durability than achieved by thermosol procedure it was implemented on polyester fabric by high frequency ultrasound
Fashion Marketing in Textile and Clothing Industry
Marketing mode istražuje povezanost modnog dizajna i marketinga uključujući razvoj, promociju, prodajne i cjenovne aspekte u industriji mode. Uspješni marketinški menadžeri svjesni su da su ključni elementi marketinga mode prepoznavanje potrošačkih trendova, izgradnja jakih marki i stvaranje pozitivnog imidža proizvođača. Kako bi se projicirao budući razvoj marketinga u industriji tekstila i odjeće Republike Hrvatske, provedeno je izviđajno istraživanje putem osobnih intervjua sa stručnjacima koji samostalno upravljaju marketinškim odjelima ili, ukoliko ne postoje takvi odjeli, upravljaju poduzećima koja proizvode tekstil i/ ili odjeću, te donose sve odluke vezane za provođenje marketinških aktivnosti. Istraživanje je pokazalo da se u hrvatskoj industriji tekstila i odjeće u nedovoljnoj mjeri primjenjuje marketing unatoč rastućoj važnosti upravljanja markama. Zbog nedovoljnih marketinških znanja i neodgovarajućeg upravljanja markama razvoj marke u industriji mode postaje jednim od kritičnih čimbenika u uspješnom poslovanju u industriji tekstila i odjeće.Fashion marketing explores connection between fashion design and marketing including development, promotion, sales and price aspects of fashion industry. Successful fashion marketing managers are aware that the most important fashion marketing elements are customer trend identification, building strong brands and creating positive image of the producers. This paper presents the findings of a research conducted for the purpose of identifying trends in marketing sector in textile and clothing industry in Croatia. The research was conducted through personal interviews with marketing and company managers in Croatia. The research identified that marketing is insufficiently implemented in Croatian textile and clothing industry, despite growing brand management importance. However, because of lack in marketing knowledge and bad brand management, development of fashion brand is the most critical factor in successful business activity in textile and clothing industry
Pamučni materijali unaprijeđene vrijednosti za posebne namjene
Dizajneri odjeće pored nadahnuća prirodom i stvarima koje nas okružuju često posežu u znanost ne bi li dobili inspiraciju za nove modele i kolekcije. Sa željom da se izradi materijal unaprijeđene vrijednosti u ovom je radu istražen mikronizirani prirodni zeolit (klinoptilolit) i njegova sorpcijska svojstva kao i njegova primjena za funkcionalizaciju pamučnog pletiva. Na temelju provedenih istraživanja izrañena je idejna kreacija i dizajn potencijalno novih tekstilnih proizvoda unaprijeñene vrijednosti za posebne namjene