University of Zagreb
Repozitorij Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta Sveučilišta u ZagrebuNot a member yet
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Marilyn Monroe - Modna ikona 20.stoljeća : Analiza i revitalizacija
Get PDFOvaj završni rad naziva " MARILYN MONROE – MODNA IKONA XX. STOLJEĆA ANALIZA I REVITALIZACIJA" je podijeljen u tri tematske cjeline – ţivot i djelo Marilyn Monroe, modu 50-ih godina te utjecaj marilyn Monore i filmske industrije na modu. Posebno je opisana tematska cijelina u postuku izrade haljine za završni rad. Završni rad obuhvaća dio biografije Marilyn Monore sa posebnim osvrtom na nju kao modnu ikonu i inspiraciju dizajnerima koja traje još i danas.This final thesis called "MARILYN MONROE - FASHION ICON OF THE 20th CENTURY - ANALYSIS AND REVITALIZATION " is divided into three thematic sections - the life and work of Marilyn Monroe, the fashion the 50s and the influence of Marilyn Monore and film industry on fashion. In a separate topic is described the procedure of making the dresses for the final thesis. The final thesis includes part biography of Marilyn Monore with special a reference to her as a fashion icon and inspiration to designers that still continues even today
Kompleksi kobalta s1-H-Benztiazol-2-metanolom kao potencijalna bojila za tekstil
Get PDFSvrha rada bila je karakterizacija i priprava novih, i do sada nepoznatih koordinacijskih spojeva kobalta s 2-(hidroksimetil)benzotiazolom kao ligandom. U radu je opisana priprava kompleksa kobalta(II) i kobalta(III) uz različite pristupe sintezama i uz različite sintetske uvjete. Za identifikaciju i karakterizaciju dobivenih produkata korištena je rendgenska strukturna analiza i termogravimetrija
Modne ikone i kultura spektakla
Get PDFRad se bavi analizom modnih ikona od sredine 20. stoljeća do danas. Izdvojene su meni osobno najzanimljivije modne ikone tog razdoblja, opisan je njihov život od djetinjstva do smrti, te njihov utjecaj na dizajnere i druge umjetnike, a uz sve to pokazat će se promjene u reprezentaciji identiteta svih aktera kulture spektakla
Hrvatski kraljevi : Izrada scenskih rekvizita
No full textTema diplomskog rada posvećena je serijalu Hrvatski kraljevi i obuhvaća iskustva stečena na
realizaciji scenografije istih. U središtu mog zanimanja su bili svi rekviziti koji su bili korišteni
u to doba.
Prvo poglavlje opisuje uvodni dio diplomskog rada.
Drugo poglavlje opisuje povijest hrvatskog naroda.
U trećem poglavlju Sažetak serijala Hrvatski kraljevi za koji su rađene krune opisali smo u
trećem poglavlju.
Četvrto poglavlje sadrži kratak osvrt na bitke vođene na tlu hrvatske.
Peto poglavlje opisuje Hrvatske vladare i kulturu.
Šesto poglavlje posvećeno je životnim navikama u visokom društvu.
U sedmom poglavlju opisuje se osvrt na niži stalež te životu srednjovjekovnog čovjeka.
Osmo poglavlje opisuje razvoj serijala Hrvatski kraljevi, te popis ekipe serijala i par kritika na
serijal uvaženih kritičara .
U devetom poglavlju kratak osvrt na razvoj rekvizite korištene u serijalu te priložene su skice
kruna i rekvizite, poglavlje završava popisom glavnog alata korištenog u izradi i detaljnim
opisom izrade krune.
Deseto poglavlje sadrži fotografije izrade kruna i rekvizite.
U jedanaestom poglavlju donosim zaključak na temu, a deseto poglavlje se odnosi na popis
literature.
Diplomski rad zaključujemo sa popisom literature korištene pri pisanju diplomskog rada
DESIGN OF FASHION COLLECTION ON THE PRINCIPLE OF MULTIPLICATION OF DISTINCTIVE ANATOMICAL PARTS OF HUMAN FIGURE
Get PDFTema ovog diplomskog rada odnosi se na oblikovanje kolekcije modne odjeće na principima multiplikacije izdvojenih anatomskih dijelova ljudske figure. U istraživačkom dijelu ovog rada oslanjajući se na polaznu znanstvenu platfomu anatomije seciranjem i rezanjem materijala te umnažanjem krojnih elemenata propituje se odnos pojedinih dijelova tijela. Pregledom povijesti umjetnosti, pa zatim i povijesti odijevanja preuzimaju se elementi kojima će se simbolički prikazati magično-religijski doživljaj tijela. Tema čovječnosti (Humanity) zaogrnuta je racionalno-empirijskim procesom izrade odjevnog predmeta, primjenom likovnih vještina zasnovanih na iskustvu, te promatranjem i tumačenjem ljudskog tijela u cjelosti.The theme of this diploma thesis relates to design of fashon collection on the principle of multiplication of distinctive anatomical parts of human figure. The research part of this work, relyes on the starting platform of scientific anatomy, by dissecting and cutting fabric and multiplication of pattern pieces, analyses the relation of individual body parts. A review of the history of art, and then the history of clothing take on elements that will symbolically show the magical-religious experience of the body. The theme of humanity (Humanity) will be mantled by rational-empirical process of making the garment, using the knowledge of fine arts based on experience and observation and interpretation of the human body in its entirety
IMPACT OF CONSTRUCTION PARAMETERS ON THERMAL PROPERTIES OF CLOTHING
No full textU doktorskom radu je istražen utjecaj konstrukcijskih parametara (konstrukcijski dodatak komocije odjevnog predmeta i duljina kroja odjevnog predmeta) na toplinska svojstva muških jakni, izražena kao vrijednost efektivne toplinske izolacije, i zadovoljstvo ispitanika podvrgnutih testiranjima u kontroliranim uvjetima. Potom je provedeno ocjenjivanje utjecaja prohladnih toplina okoliša i izrađenih odjevnih predmeta na zadovoljstvo ispitanika, odnosno toplinsku ugodnost. Subjektivna percepcija toplinske ugodnosti pri nošenju ispitivane odjeće u specifičnim uvjetima okoliša vrednovana je analizom ocjena ispitanika koji su za vrijeme laboratorijskih ispitivanja ispunjavali upitnike s razrađenim ljestvicama subjektivnog ocjenjivanja. Istovremeno su praćeni uvjeti okoliša i mjerene vrijednosti fizioloških reakcija tijela (prosječna temperatura kože tijela i vlažnost kože) na zadane uvjete okoliša. Ispitivanje utjecaja iznosa konstrukcijskog dodatka komocije na toplinska svojstva odjevnog predmeta provedena su na modelu muške letačke vjetrovke izvedene u četiri varijante (svaka se varijanta modela razlikuje u iznosu konstrukcijskog dodatka komocije). Ispitivanje utjecaja duljine kroja na toplinska svojstva odjevnog predmeta provedena su na modelu muške nautičarske vjetrovke modularne izvedbe s odvojivim nastavcima za promjenu duljine kroja. Termalnim manekenom utvrđena su izolacijska svojstva izrađenih jakni, a potom su ispitanici izvođenjem određenih fizičkih aktivnosti u kontroliranim uvjetima klima komore subjektivno ocijenili toplinsku ugodnost odjevnih sustava i jakni. Rezultatima je dokazano je da se prilagođavanjem konstrukcijskih parametra u procesu konstruiranja odjevnih predmeta (muških jakni) može utjecati na konačna toplinska svojstva odjevnih predmeta i da postoji povezanost između iznosa konstrukcijskog dodatka komocije i izmjerene vrijednosti efektivne toplinske izolacije muške jakne i povezanost između duljine muške jakne i izmjerene vrijednosti efektivne toplinske izolacije muške jakne. Također je dokazano da postoji korelacija između vrijednosti efektivne toplinske izolacije odjevnih predmeta i fizioloških varijabli tijela (vrijednost prosječne temperature kože tijela i relativne vlažnosti kože te gubitaka težine ispitanika), kojima se procjenjuje stupanj toplinske ugodnosti i da postoji korelacija između efektivne toplinske izolacije odjevnih sustava i ocjena ispitanika kojima se procjenjuje stupanj toplinske ugodnosti. Dodatno je istraženo vertikalno strujanje toplijeg zraka u više prostore mikroklime kada je ljudsko tijelo u pokretu.This doctoral thesis investigates an impact of constructional parameters (ease allowance value and length of clothing garment) on thermal properties of male jackets, expressed as value of effective thermal insulation, as well as satisfaction of the examinees which undergo testing under controlled environmental conditions. Afterwards, an assessment of impact of cool environments and tailor-made clothing garments on satisfaction of examinees was conducted, respectively their influence on thermal comfort was assessed. Subjective perception of thermal comfort while wearing tested clothing in specific environmental conditions was valorised by analysing examinees’ grades, which underwent laboratory trials and completed forms with elaborated subjective judgement scales. Simultaneously, environmental conditions were monitored and physiological reactions of examinees (mean skin temperature and humidity of skin) were measured. The impact of pattern ease allowance on thermal properties of clothing garment were investigated on model of men’s flying wind-proof jacket produced in four variants (each variant differs in amount of ease allowance added to chest and waist circumference). The impact of pattern length on thermal properties of clothing garment was investigated on model of men’s nautical wind-proof jacket produced as modular garment with attachable extensions for pattern length variations. Thermal insulation properties of produced jackets were measured with thermal mannequin and afterwards the examinees, which performed defined physical activities in controlled environmental conditions inside climatic chamber, made subjective evaluation of thermal comfort of clothing garments and ensembles. Two models of male jacket were constructed and made. First model of male jacket is pilot bomber jacket in size 50, but was made in 4 different variants. Each variant was made by adding higher value of ease allowance to chest and waist circumference in garment pattern modification so that the impact of ease allowance value on effective thermal insulation of male jackets can be investigated. Second model of male jacket is modular parka jacket. It consists of one basic module and four applicative modules which can be attached to the basis of the jacket. This model was developed to determine the impact of jacket length on values of effective thermal insulation of clothing garment. Both selected garments and clothing ensembles’’ effective thermal insulation values were determined with thermal mannequin. Basic research problems addressed in this doctoral thesis were: 1) How do constructional parameters affect thermal properties of clothing?, 1a)How much does changes in ease allowance impact the values of effective thermal insulation of male jackets?, 1b) How much does changes in length of jackets impact the values of effective thermal insulation?, 2) Is there correlation between effective thermal insulation of garments and physiological responses of human body?, 3) Is there correlation between effective thermal insulation of ensembles and grades which examinees give while evaluating satisfaction with thermal comfort of clothing?, 4) Does chimney effect or vertical current of hot air occurs in clothing microclimate while the body is moving? Hypothesis appointed upon those questions are: 1) Constructional parameters of clothing affect final thermal properties of clothing garment. 1a) There is connection between the values of ease allowance to chest and waist circumference in garment pattern modification and the final value of effective thermal insulation of male jackets. 1b) There is connection between the values of total jacket length in garment pattern modification and the final value of effective thermal insulation of male jackets. 2) There is correlation between effective thermal insulation of clothing garments and physiological outputs of human body (mean skin temperature and humidity of skin), which are means of evaluating thermal comfort. 3) There is correlation between effective thermal insulation of clothing ensembles and grades of examinees, which are means of evaluating thermal comfort. 4) With body moving, the air with higher temperatures, which is trapped inside microclimatic layer, will start to rise vertically to higher spheres and chimney effect will occur. Than examinees were asked to do laboratory evaluation of selected clothing ensembles, which included those jackets under specific thermal environments. While conducting laboratory testing they were given questionnaire to assess the influence of clothing and environment using subjective judgement scales. Afterwards their answers were compared to values of determined insulation values of clothing ensembles and their physiological responses. Results have shown that by customizing constructional parameters in garment pattern modification, one can affect the final thermal properties of clothing garments and that there is connection between the values of ease allowance to chest and waist circumference and the final value of effective thermal insulation of male jackets. Also it was proven that there is connection between the values of total jacket length and the final value of effective thermal insulation of male jackets. In addition, it was demonstrated that there is correlation between effective thermal insulation of clothing garments and physiological outputs of human body (mean skin temperature and humidity of skin), which are means of evaluating thermal comfort, and that there is correlation between effective thermal insulation of clothing ensembles and grades of examinees, which are means of evaluating thermal comfort. Furthermore, there is evidence that the air with higher temperatures, which is trapped inside microclimatic layer, will start to rise vertically to higher spheres and chimney effect will occur while movements of body
SKIN CANCER AND UV PROTECTION
Get PDFThe incidence of skin cancer is increasing by epidemic proportions. Basal cell cancer remains the most common skin neoplasm, and simple excision is generally curative. On the other hand, aggressive local growth and metastasis are common features of malignant melanoma, which accounts for 75% of all deaths associated with skin cancer. The primary cause of skin cancer is long exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) crossed with the amount of skin pigmentation and family genetics. It is believed that in childhood and adolescence, 80% of UV-R gets absorbed while in the remaining, 20 % gets absorbed later in the lifetime. This suggests that proper and early photoprotection may reduce the risk of subsequent occurrence of skin cancer. Reducing the exposure time to sunlight, using sunscreens and protective textiles are the three ways of UV protection. Most people think that all the clothing will protect them, but it does not provide full sun screening properties. Literature sources claim that only 1/3 of the spring and summer collections tested give off proper UV protection. This is very important during the summer months, when UV index is the highest. Fabric UV protection ability highly depends on large number of factors such as type of fiber, fabric surface, construction, porosity, density, moisture content, type and concentration of dyestuff, fluorescent whitening agents, UV-B protective agents (UV absorbers), as well as nanoparticles, if applied. For all of these reasons, in the present paper, the results of UV protecting ability according to AS/NZS 4399:1996 will be discussed to show that standard clothing materials are not always adequate to prevent effect of UV-R to the human skin; and to suggest the possibilities for its improvement for this purpose enhancing light conversion and scattering. Additionally, the discrepancy in UV protection was investigated in distilled water as well as Adriatic Sea water
Kostim u performansu : Od futurizma do danas
Get PDFPerformans kao režirani ili nerežirani specifičan umjetnički mediji inzistira na ideji, a ne na proizvodu. On je sjecište drugih umjetnosti, poput plesa, glazbe, slikarstva, arhitekture i kiparstva te je kao zaseban umjetnički medij prihvaćen tek sedamdesetih godina 20. stoljeća. U to vrijeme konceptualna je umjetnost na svom vrhuncu i izvedba je često samo demonstracija ili provedba ideje. Performans tako postaje najstvarnija umjetnička forma razdoblja. Kostim u performansu komunicira bitne činjenice, poput emocionalnih, psihičkih, statusnih ili političkih stanja. Uspješan kostim utjelovljuje likove i pojačava uvjerljivost priče
Postmoderna teorija mode:Jean Baudrillard i medijska konstrukcija događaja
Get PDFU doba postmoderne promjene paradigme mode kultura postaje svrhom identiteta, odnosno specifičnom formom (anti)mode. Moda tek tada postaje jednim od relevantnih teorijskih subjekata interdisciplinarnih studija kulture. Međutim, probojem vizualne kulture sama metodologija kulturalnih studija postaje problematičnom. Osim analize i kritike metodologije kulturalnih studija, u ovome radu biti će predstavljen alternativni pristup postmodernoj modi Jeana Baudrillarda koji pripada paradigmi postmoderne kritike teorija o socijalno-klasnoj diferencijaciji te predstavlja svojevrsnu radikalizaciju postmoderne teorije mode. Nasuprot rasprostranjenijoj paradigmi koja modu sagledava kroz ulične stilove odijevanja, Baudrillard pristupa modi kao estetsko-medijskome sklopu. Realno postojanje mode tek je omogućeno simulakrumom medijskog događaja. Umjesto serijske reproduktivnosti, sada modulacija obuhvaća poredak proizvodnje pa stoga prema Baudrillardu svjedočimo determinizmu operacionalne simulacije, odnosno logike medijskog događaja označavanja, nad samim pojmom proizvodnje djela/robe. Kao medijski uobličeni simulakri, modeli su oslobođeni reference na bilo kakvu stvarnost te ulaze u viralni proces nerazlikovanja.In the age of the postmodern shift of the fashion paradigm, culture becomes the purpose of identity, that is, a specific form of (anti-)fashion. Only then does fashion become one of the relevant theoretical subjects for the interdisciplinary cultural studies. However, the emergence of visual culture has made the very methodology of cultural studies problematic. Apart from the analysis and criticism of the methodology of cultural studies, this paper will also elaborate on the alternative approach to postmodern fashion by Jean Baudrillard; an approach that belongs to the paradigm of the postmodern criticism of class differentiation theories and presents a kind of radicalization of the postmodern fashion theory. Baudrillard dismisses the widespread paradigm that views fashion through the prism of street clothing styles, instead approaching it as an aesthetic-media set. The real existence of fashion has only been made possible by the simulacrum of the media event. Instead of serial reproduction, modulation now encompasses the order of production so, according to Baudrillard, we are witnesses to determinism of operational simulation, that is, of the logic of the media event of denotation that is above the notion of production of goods itself. As simulacra formed by the media, models are liberated of any reference to any reality, entering the viral process of indiscrimination
