University of Zagreb
Repozitorij Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta Sveučilišta u ZagrebuNot a member yet
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ELEMENTS OF BAUHAUS ARCHITECTURE IN THE DESIGN OF THE FASHION ACCESSORIES COLLECTION
No full textZavršni rad se bavi istraživanjem arhitekture Bauhausa i analizom modnih dizajnera koji razmišljaju i djeluju arhitektonski u svom radu. Kroz likovne elemente istražuje se relacija i preklapanje u modi, modnim dodacima i arhitekturi. Krajnji rezultat biti će vlastita kolekcija modnih dodataka inspirirana opusom Waltera Gropiusa.The final thesis explores Bauhaus architecture and analyzes fashion designers who think and act architecturally in their work. It examines the relationship and overlap between fashion, fashion accessories, and architecture through visual elements. The ultimate result will be a personal collection of fashion accessories inspired by the work of Walter Gropius
THE FASHION OPUS OF BALENCIAGA AS THE STARTING POINT FOR THE FASHION COLLECTION INSPIRED BY THE AESTHETICS OF UGLY
No full textOvaj rad je putovanje kroz svijet mode. Od kultnih prekretnica, preko vizionarskih dizajnera do revolucionarne estetike. Počevši od revolucionarnog Cristóbala Balenciage, svjedoci smo naslijeđa inovacija koje su postavile temelje za Balenciagin trajni utjecaj. Estetika ružnog pojavila se kao proaktivni odmak od tradicionalnih normi ljepote, pozivajući nas da propitujemo standarde i slavimo autentičnost. Vizionarsko vodstvo Demne Gvasalije revitaliziralo je Balenciagu, ispreplićući povijesni opus modernom autentičnosti. Ovo putovanje kroz vrijeme i estetiku otkrilo je transformativnu moć mode, od izazovnih normi do slavljenja individulanosti. Kao što možemo zaključiti, nalazimo se na raskrižju nasljeđa i inovacije, gdje prošlost oblikuje sadašnjost, a kreativnost preoblikuje budućnost.This work is a journey through the world of fashion. From iconic milestones to visionary designers to revolutionary aesthetics. Beginning with the revolutionary Cristóbal Balenciaga, we witness a legacy of innovation that laid the foundation for Balenciaga's lasting influence. The aesthetics of ugliness emerged as a proactive departure from traditional beauty norms, inviting us to question standards and celebrate authenticity. The visionary leadership of Demna Gvasalia revitalised Balenciaga, linking the historical work with modern authenticity. This journey through time and aesthetics has revealed the transformative power of fashion, from challenging norms to celebrating individuality. We can conclude that we are at the crossroads of heritage and innovation, where the past shapes the present and creativity reshapes the future
Konstrukcija i modeliranje ženskih odijela inspirirane radom dizajnera Yves Saint Laurenta
No full textYves Saint Laurent bio je francuski dizajner poznat po popularizaciji ženskih hlača. Kada je imao samo 17 godina Christian Dior ga je zaposlio kao svog pomoćnika, nakon Diorove smrti imenovan je kreativnim direktorom i uvodi sofisticiranije duže suknje, dok 1959 drastčno skraćuje suknje i uvodi crne kožne jakne obrubljene krznom. Saint Laurent je imao veliku inspiraciju i u modelima koji su nosili njegove kreacije, kada god bi ih vidio dobio bi novu ideju za novi dizajn, takođr želio je osloboditi žene od uskih odjevnih predmeta i ponuditi udobnost i eleganciju. Elsa Schiaparelli također je bila velika inspiracija, Saint Laurent u jednoj od svojih kolekcija htio je odati počast Schiaparelli, koristio je njene motive u nekoliko kreacija kao što je sako „slomljeno staklo“. Veliku ulogu u njegovim kreacijama imala je Betty Catroux, Betty je imala afiniteta prema muškoj odjeći, u kojoj se osjećala ugodno. Sain Laurentn se godinama oslanjao na kodove muškog odijevanja,a Betty mu je davala inspiraciju. Zadržao je klasični kroj odijela, praktičnost te je to sve zajedno spojio elegancijom i ženstvenošću. Jedan od njegovih najpoznatijih odjevnih predmeta je safari jakna, predstavio ju je šezdesetih godina te je ostavila veliki utjecaj na modu. Saint Lurent je veliki utjecaj imao na modnu industriju te je i dan danas još ima
Povijesno-odjevna analiza i izrada kostima prema portretu Lucrezie Panciatichi (1540.) autora Agnola Bronzina
No full textU prvom dijelu diplomskog rada analizirat će se odjevna kompozicija Lucrezie Panciatichi na njezinom portretu iz 1540. godine, autora Agnola Bronzina. Značajke ženske renesansne odjevne forme predstavit će se kroz kulturno - društvene aspekte toga razdoblja koji su utjecali na odjevnu pojavnost. Pri tome će se posebna pažnja posvetiti odnosu tijela i odjevne forme, značenju boja, primjeni tkanina te modnih dodataka, nositelja društvenih simbola. U drugom dijelu diplomskog rada, nadahnuvši se povijesnom odjevnom kompozicijom Agnola Bronzina, istraživat će se moguće interpretacije forme kroz ilustraciju, te će se za odabranu izraditi konstrukcija, za potrebe njezine realizacije u odabranom materijalu.First part of the master thesis will be an analysis of historical clothing composition of Lucrezia Panciatichi based on her portrait by author Agnolo Bronzino dating from 1540. Features of a female renaissance clothing form will be presented through cultural and social aspects of the time that had an impact on the clothing appearance. Attention will be given to the relation between body and clothing form, significance of the color, use of fabric and accessorises as well as certain status symbols. In the second part of the thesis, inspired by the renaissance composition by Agnolo Bronzino, variations of different form interpretations will be explored throught illustration while the clothing construction will be made together with the realization in chosen fabric
Ambijentalno uređenje dvorskog prostora autorskim tekstilima
No full textUtvrda iz 13. stoljeća višeljetnim obnovama zadržava veliki udio izvornog arhitektonskog oblikovanja. Današnje kulturno dobro, dvor Trakošćan otvorenim muzejom, javnosti predstavlja sačuvan inventar iz doba života obitelji Drašković, poznati kao nekadašnji vlasnici dvorca. Svaka razina građevine sačinjena je od prostorija koje imaju određenu namjenu. Uzevši jedan nepopunjen prostor dvorca, prilagođavajući se dimenzijama, osmišljava se nadopuna i kreira interijer. Uređenje interijera obuhvaća umetanje paravana, tepiha i zavjesa. Estetska vrijednost tih predmeta realizirana je idejnim rješenjem površine, odnosno ornamentikom po uzoru historijskih stilova. Tako uređen prostor, ambijentalna je simulacija dvorskog interijera.The 13th century fortress retains a large share of original architectural design through several-day renovations. Today's cultural heritage, the court of Trakoscan with an open museum, presents to the public a preserved inventory from the Draskovic family's time of life, known as the former owners of the castle. Each level of the structure is made up of rooms that have a specific purpose. Taking an unoccupied space of the castle, adapting to dimensions, a replenishment is designed and an interior is created. Interior decoration includes the insertion of screens, carpets and curtains. The aesthetic value of these objects was realized by conceptual surface design, i.e. by ornamentation modelled on historical styles. The space thus arranged is an ambient simulation of the court's interior
Značajnost parametara udobnosti u razvoju multifunkcionalne negorive tkanine za dualnu namjenu
No full textTemeljna funkcija odjeće za toplinsku zaštitnu vatrogasaca je osiguranje visoke razine zaštite – svojstva negorivosti, odnosno, zaštita od izloženosti toplinskim rizicima uz istovremeno osiguravanje efikasnog transporta metaboličke topline i pare (znoj) u okolinu, odnosno, posjedovanje svojstava udobnosti (koje utječe na psihofizičko stanje pojedinca). Odjeća za toplinsku zaštitu može biti izvor visokog toplinskog stresa, uzrokujući visok postotak smrtnih slučajeva. Na toplinsku zaštitnu učinkovitost i udobnost zaštitne odjeće vatrogasaca utječu svojstva vlakana, pređe i tkanine. U ovom diplomskom radu izvršena je procjena udobnosti razvijenih multifunkcionalnih negorivih tkanina za dualnu namjenu te je utvrđen utjecaj konstrukcijskih karakteristika i sirovinskog sastava negorivih tkanina na njihovu udobnost
Fashion stories of TTF students
No full textUmjetnička knjiga obuhvaća presjek realiziranih studenskih radova studenata TTF-a na kolegijima Kreiranje odjeće koji su bili javno prezentirani. Za modu se može reći da je ogledalo društva koja postaje dio kulture te na određeni način pokazuje trenutačno stanje u društvu. Odijevanje predstavlja kulturnu činjenicu, a odijelo je istodobno predmet sa svojom stvarnom funkcijom i znak sa svojom simbolikom. Moda postaje izraz osobnosti, sredstvo socijalizacije i identifikacije. Bez obzira kako individualno gledamo na nju, činjenica je da su modni i umjetnički svijet isprepleteni nitima bezgranične mašte i potrebe za stvaranjem što je ujedno i bilo polazište studentima za njihove modno umjetničke kreacija.The art book includes a cross-section of realized student works of TTF students on the courses Creativity in clothing that were publicly presented. Fashion can be said to be a mirror of society that becomes part of culture and shows the current state of society in a certain way. Clothing represents a cultural fact, and a suit is both an object with its real function and a sign with its symbolism. Fashion becomes an expression of personality, a means of socialization and identification. No matter how we look at it individually, the fact is that the fashion and art worlds are intertwined with threads of boundless imagination and the need to create, which was also the starting point for the students for their fashion and artistic creations
Contribution of CEE authors to psychological science: is the growing trend of publishing in non-CEE journals still present 10 years after its inception?
No full textFollowing the previous research on the contribution of Central and Eastern European (CEE) authors to psychological science, this study aims to expand the research scope by investigating the process of internationalization of science in CEE countries which is closely related. The CEE authors belong to the geopolitically sidelined group of European countries. Their presence in psychological journals can be one of the indicators of the success of internationalization in psychology. The aim of this study is to analyse the trends in the scientific productivity of authors from CEE countries in the field of psychology by comparing papers published in CEE journals (published in CEE countries) and non-CEE journals (published in non-CEE countries) for the period 2014–2020. Using a qualitative and quantitative approach, 13,388 scientific papers published in 2089 journals indexed in Scopus were analysed. The goal was to define differences in trends in the paper publication in CEE and non-CEE psychological journals by authors from CEE countries. The results showed that CEE authors mostly published their work in non-CEE journals (69%), with the trend accelerating since 2019. The papers in both types of journals deal with similar topics of which most represented are clinical and health psychology, social psychology and cognitive psychology. The papers published in non-CEE journals mostly have a more complex methodology and greater institutional and international collaboration, which, along with the Anglicanization of CEE journals and the increased presence of CEE authors in psychological publications, confirms the internationalization of psychology
ADSORPTION OF CETYLPYRIDINIUM CHLORIDE ON CELLULOSIC SUBSTRATES
No full textCeluloza i njezini derivati, zbog velike površine i adsorpcijskih svojstava, pogodni su nosači različitih kozmetičkih i terapeutskih pripravaka te lijekova za kontroliranu isporuku. U ovom su radu istražena dva celulozna adsorbensa i adsorbati, cetilpiridinijev klorid kao antiseptik i amoksicilin kao lijek. Adsorpcija cetilpiridinijevoga klorida na celulozne supstrate praćena je pri 25 °C i različitim vrijednostima pH, pH 9, pH 6 i pH 4, elektrokinetičkom metodom potencijala strujanja i mikrogravimetrijskom metodom kvarcne mikrovage s praćenjem disipacije (QCM-D). Cetilpiridinijev klorid (CPC), kao adsorbat, primijenjen je u dvjema koncentracijama, 1 mmol/L i 2,4 mmol/L, za pamučnu tkaninu (PT) u realnom i celulozni film (MCF) u modelnom sustavu. Dodatno je CPC s amoksicilinom ugrađenim u njegove micele analiziran kao funkcionalni adsorbat za oba celulozna supstrata. Procesima adsorpcije u realnom i modelnom sustavu prethodila je analiza svih adsorbata i adsorbensa. CPC formulacijama (CPC1, CPC2,4 i CPC/Amox), kao adsorbatima, određeni su molarna koncentracija (c), vrijednost pH, vodljivost (), zeta potencijal čestica u otopini (ζ), hidrodinamički promjer (dH), površinska napetost (σ) i apsorpcijski spektri. Celulozni adsorbensi karakterizirani su kroz stupanj polimerizacije (DP), aktivnu površinu (BET), morfologiju (SEM), kemijski sastav (FTIR), zeta potencijal (ζ) i bubrivost. Odabrane metode primijenjene su s ciljem analize parametara koji utječu na adsorpciju CPC-a i CPC/Amoxa u realnom i modelnom sustavu kao i njihove desorpcije. Na temelju rezultata utvrđena je korelacija između metoda, potencijal strujanja i QCM–D-a, kao i korelacija realnog (PT) i modelnog (MCF) sustava. Rezultati istraživanja potvrdili su postavljene hipoteze da je ugradnjom amoksicilina u CPC micele moguće razviti novu funkcionalnu koloidnu formulaciju. Procesi adsorpcije pokazali su da je amoksicilin ugrađen u CPC micele prihvatljiv adsorbat za pamučnu tkaninu i celulozni film. Elektrokinetička metoda potencijal strujanja prihvatljiva je za istraživanje adsorpcije CPC micela i njegove koloidne formulacije CPC/Amox u sustavu s celuloznim supstratima. Mikrogravimetrijska metoda QCM-D također je prihvatljiva za istraživanje adsorpcije CPC micela i njegove koloidne formulacije CPC/Amoxa u sustavu s celuloznim filmom (MCF). Rezultati desorpcije CPC/Amoxa s pamučne tkanine dobiveni metodama potencijala strujanja i QCM–D-a pokazali su najbolju stabilnost adsorbirane količine pri pH 9. Rezultati statističke analize potvrdili su da je moguće uspostaviti korelaciju između metoda potencijala strujanja i QCM-D-a za istraživanje adsorpcije iz CPC formulacija na celulozne supstrate.Cellulose and its derivatives are suitable as carriers for various cosmetic applications, therapeutic preparations and controlled drug delivery due to their large surface area and adsorption properties. They are characterized by their biocompatibility, hydrophilicity, biodegradability, non-toxicity and antimicrobial properties. In this resaerch, cotton fabric and cellulose film were investigated as a drug delivery systems. The adsorption of cetylpyridinium chloride on cotton cellulose and cellulose film was studied by varying the pH, concentration and functionalization of the micelles. Cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC) is the quaternary ammonium compound, which owns antibacterial properties due to its hydrophobic segment in the molecule. Interactions with gram-positive bacteria occur by interrupting the function of the membrane, leakage of cytoplasm and its destruction. Due to its antibacterial properties and its use in pharmacology and dentistry, the possibility of encapsulating amoxicillin in its micelles was investigated. Amoxicillin (Amox) is a broad spectrum antibiotic that belongs to the penicillin group, and is used in human and veterinary medicine. Due to its structure, the presence of acidic (carboxyl, -COOH) and basic (amino, -NH2) groups. Amox shows different ionic forms in aqueous solutions, depending on pH, which has been shown to be an advantage. The adsorption of cetylpyridinium chloride on the cellulose substrates was monitored at 25 °C and different pH values, pH 9, pH 6 and pH 4, using the electrokinetic method of streaming potential and the gravimetric method of the quartz-crystal microbalance with dissipation (QCM-D). Cetylpyridinium chloride was applied as an adsorbate at two cncentrations, 1 mmol/L and 2.4 mmol/L, for cotton fabric (PT) in the real, and cellulose thin films (MCF) in the model system. In addition, CPC with Amox embedded in its micelles was analyzed as a functional adsorbate for both cellulosic substrates. The adsorption processes in the real and model systems were preceded by the analysis of adsorbates and adsorbent properties. Cetylpyridinium chloride as adsorbate (CPC1, CPC2,4 and CPC/Amox) was characterized by the determination of molar concentration (c), pH, conductivity (), zeta potential of particles in solution (ζ), hydrodynamic diameter (dH), surface tension (σ) and absorption spectra. Cellulose adsorbents were characterized by degree of polymerization (DP), active surface area (BET), morphology (SEM), chemical composition (FTIR), zeta potential (ζ) and swelling. The selected methods were applied with the aim of analyzing the parameters affecting the adsorption of CPC and CPC/Amox in real and model systems as well as their desorption. Based on the results, the correlation between the methods, streaming potential and QCM-D, as well as the correlation of the real (PT) and model (MCF) systems, was determined. The research results confirmed the hypothesis that the incorporation of amoxicillin into CPC micelles allows the development of a new functional colloidal formulation. The adsorption processes showed that amoxicillin embedded in CPC micelles is an acceptable adsorbate for cotton fabric and cellulose film. Surface modification of textile materials, in this case cellulose substrates, for biomedical application is primarily aimed at introducing specific surface functionalities that change the surface charge of the material. The surface modification of the material can be detected by measuring the surface charge, for which the streaming potential method is suitable. The problem is that the measurements must be performed in the presence of an electrolyte, which can affect the properties of the adsorbate. In this research, it was previously determined that the electrolyte KCl at a concentration of 1 mmol/L has no effect on the physical and chemical properties of the adsorbate. According to the obtained results electrokinetic method the streaming potential is acceptable for studying the adsorption of CPC micelles and its colloidal formulation CPC/Amox in a system with cellulose substrates. The quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation was used to determine interfacial mass changes by dependence of QCM resonance frequency. The benefits of this method are shown by the fast adsorption data and a small amount of sample. In addition, it provides information about the change of mass on the tested sample, but also about changes on the surface, which differ by changes in dissipation. For this research, the results of QCM-D method proved to be convinient for the analysis of adsorption of CPC micelles and CPC/Amox on the model cellulose thin films (MCF), which provide information about surfaces during adsorption of colloidal formulations. The results of CPC/Amox desorption from cotton fabric obtained by the streaming potential method and QCM-D showed the best stability at pH 9. The results of the statistical analysis confirmed that it is possible to establish a correlation between the streaming potential method and QCM-D for the study of adsorption of CPC from colloidal formulation on cellulosic substrates
POVRŠINSKA MODIFIKACIJA PAMUČNIH TEKSTILIJA USPORIVAČIMA GORENJA METODOM NANOSA SLOJ-PO-SLOJ
No full textThe main goal of this thesis was to develop sustainable and biodegradable flame retardant (FR), as well as multifunctional FR/antimicrobial (AM), finishing of cotton by means of an emerging technique called layer-by-layer (LbL) deposition as a response to technological drawbacks of current commercial FR and multifunctional wet finishing processes. Those are high amounts of conventionally applied chemicals, emission of toxic and cancerogenic formaldehyde during production or product life cycle, loss of tensile strength of FR-treated cotton fabrics, and a large number of process steps at high temperatures, which require high water and energy consumption. Additionally, the current Pyrovatex® process is less compatible with antibacterial finishes, so it is challenging to fulfill commercial requirements for FR/AM cotton, such as limiting oxygen index (LOI) values of ≥ 28%, self-extinguishing in vertical flammability test (VFT) and 100% bacteria reduction at the same time. In this thesis, a conventional treatment that usually requires the addition of very high amounts of different FR compounds has been replaced with an environmentally friendlier treatment. LbL deposition uses the ability of polyelectrolyte aqueous solutions to build charged layered assemblies attracted by weak electrostatic forces on the surface of chemically bleached cotton, with slight influence on mechanical properties of treated cotton fabric and at temperatures below 100 °C. Additionally, by means of LbL deposition, cotton was successfully functionalized with FR and AM agents by using only chemicals from renewable sources such as cereals, legumes, and crustaceans waste or minerals.
In this thesis, several environmentally friendly and low-cost agents from renewable sources have been used for LbL: cationic branched polyethyleneimine solution (BPEI, 5 wt%), anionic phytic acid salts solution (PA, 2 wt%, pH 4), cationic chitosan solution (CH, 0.5 wt%, pH 4), and copper (II) sulfate pentahydrate (CuSO4 x 5H2O, 2 wt%) to reduce the flammability of cotton and achieve additional antimicrobial properties. BPEI has been used as a prime layer for better adhesion to cotton. Cotton has been alternately immersed into anionic PA and cationic CH-urea (U) solutions until the desired number of bilayers (BL) has been reached. Each deposition step was followed by rinsing in deionized water (DI) to remove all unbound polyelectrolytes. The final step was the immersion into CuSO4 x 5H2O solution to increase AM properties.
The LbL deposited cotton fabric self–extinguished in VFT with the LOI values ranging from 24.5 to 28.0% with 17.3–19.0% of add-ons compared to a conventional process, where the add-on ranges from 20.0–25.0%. For comparison, add-on of non-durable FR finishes such as boric acid/borax, is ~ 10%, and diammonium phosphate/ammonium sulfamate is ~ 15%.
Furthermore, the Pyrovatex® process, which requires about 350 g/l of different agents, was replaced by a more environmentally friendly treatment using agents in a concentration usually ≤ 100 g/l with a slight influence on the mechanical properties of the treated cotton fabric (up to ± 14 % change in break strength) at temperatures below 100 °C. In comparison, the Pyrovatex® process reduces the breaking strength by 20-25%, while non-durable FR agents generally reduce the breaking strength.
The microscale combustion calorimeter (MCC) values showed a peak heat release rate (pHRR) reduction of 50.9–61.8% and a total heat release rate (THR) reduction of 54.3–70.3%, compared with untreated cotton.
Thermogravimetric (TGA) analysis showed the reduction of the first decomposition temperature peak (T1) of 57–66 °C relative to untreated cotton and an increase of char yield (%) at T1 from ~ 43–46% for untreated to ~ 56–63% for FR treated cotton fabric.
The post-burn char mainly contains carbon, oxygen, phosphorus, nitrogen (and copper) as measured by energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS) analysis.
SEM analyses confirmed N-P intermediates, produced by PA and CH-U upon heating, which phosphorylate cellulose at a temperature below 350–400 °C by producing intumescent char, which acts as a physical barrier that blocks heat and oxygen to the polymer surface. The addition of Cu2+ metal ions further catalyzes cellulose phosphorylation. At the same time, generated non-flammable gases dilute the concentration of the combustible gases and absorb heat, causing the bubbling effect.
The FR/AM nanocoating also reduced Gram-negative K. pneumoniae and Gram-positive S. aureus bacteria by almost 100%.
Using LbL deposition proved to be an alternative and efficient FR and AM treatment applying environmentally benign compounds from renewable sources in very low concentrations for non durable purposes only. With the wider availability of biodegradable chemicals from renewable sources at lower costs and improving wash durability, LbL deposition has the potential to become an industrially feasible solution for FR or multifunctional FR/AM functionalization of cotton. Future research will be expanded to the improvement of wash durability as well as dye compatibility with conventional dyeing/printing processes.Glavni cilj ove doktorske disertacije bio je razviti održivu i biorazgradivu obradu protiv gorenja (FR) pamuka, kao i višenamjensku FR/antimikrobni (AM) obradu pomoću inovativne metode nanosa sloj-po-sloj kao odgovor na tehnološke nedostatke trenutnih komercijalnih FR i višenamjenskih postupaka završnih obrada pamučnih tekstilija. Ti nedostaci uključuju upotrebu velikih količina kemikalija, emisiju toksičnog i kancerogenog formaldehida tijekom proizvodnje ili životnog ciklusa proizvoda, gubitak vlačne čvrstoće pamučnih tkanina obrađenih protiv gorenja, te velik broj postupaka u proizvodnji na visokim temperaturama uz veliku potrošnju vode i električne energije. U ovom radu konvencionalna obrada koja obično zahtijeva dodavanje vrlo velikih količina različitih organofosfornih kemikalija zamijenjena je ekološki prihvatljivijom obradom upotrebom kemikalija iz obnovljivih izvora. Dobiveni pamučni materijal s LbL nanosom smanjio je zapaljivost pamuka, kao i rast bakterija. Ovom metodom moguće je postići učinkovitu višenamjensku FR/AM obradu pamučnih tekstilija primjenom ekološki povoljnih kemikalija iz obnovljivih izvora u vrlo niskim koncentracijama, ali samo za nepostojane obrade. Uz širu dostupnost biorazgradivih kemikalija iz obnovljivih izvora po nižim troškovima i poboljšanja postojanosti na pranje, metoda nanosa sloj-po-sloj ima potencijala postati industrijski izvediva za FR ili višenamjensku FR/AM funkcionalizaciju pamuka