Northumbria Journals
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G01 Quantifying the traverse: a comprehensive kinematic analysis of climbing technique
No full textBiomechanical analysis plays a pivotal role in enhancing performance and preventing injuries in rock climbing. Despite a recent increase in popularity, there remains a lack of research quantifying full-body movements, resulting in uncertainty regarding biomechanical demands and variability. It should be noted that there is a scarcity of data in climbing research to quantify optimal techniques, particularly for traverses. This study aims to address this gap by examining the demands of a traverse in a controlled setting using Vicon marker-based three-dimensional (3D) motion capture. Fourteen experienced climbers (32 ± 13 years, 70 ± 9 kg) with varying skill levels (intermediate to advanced) and climbing backgrounds (sport climbing, trad climbing and bouldering) completed a two-minute standardised traverse on a custom-built Lattice circuit (2440 × 2440 × 1220 mm). A twelve-camera (200 Hz, Vantage) motion analysis system (Vicon, Motion Systems Ltd. Oxford, United Kingdom) acquired kinematic data. Retroreflective markers were attached to anatomical landmarks of the upper and lower body. The trials were preceded by a 10-minute self-selected warmup. This data will be analysed to assess the degree of inter-participant variability, observing if there is the possibility of quantifying an optimal traversing technique. Intra-participant variability will be assessed, to measure the effect of fatigue on the climbing movement. Previous literature has alluded to the possibility of fatigue increasing the use of the legs when climbing as compensation. Comparing the beginning of the traverse to the end, data should further substantiate this claim. This research will offer insights into the kinematic demands of rock climbing, laying the groundwork for further studies on a larger scale to assess the possibility of optimising technique, performance, and injury strategies. This study contributes to bridging the vast gap between biomechanical research and practical applications in the climbing community, facilitating a more evidence-based approach to performance
G03 An investigation on sex-based disparities in male and female collegiate athlete reactive strength index
No full textReactive strength is the ability to effectively use a fast stretch shortening cycle (SSC) with the eccentric into a concentric contraction (Rebelo et al., 2022, Healthcare, 10, 593). A fast SSC is determined to be <200 ms due to a preliminary study by (Schmidtbleicher & Komi, 1992, Encyclopedia Sports Med. Vol. 3 Strength and Power in Sport) reviewing muscular contractions. Reactive strength is determined through two different metrics used within the literature which are ground contact time (GCT) and jump height (JH) allowing for understanding on how an athlete can utilise the myotatic reflex to react with the floor. Reactive Strength Index (RSI) is typically measured via drop jump (DJ) and 10/5 reactive pogo jumps. A novel way to measure RSI is via a rebound countermovement jump (RCMJ) which utilises RSI-Modified and includes time to take off instead of ground contact time. RSI is an important metric to measure because it has implications within sport-specific metrics like sprinting and jumping (Jarvis et al., 2022, Sports Med, 52, 301-330). However, some of the limitations of RSI are it is a ratio metric, and therefore RSI can mask underpinning metrics. As a result, additional metrics such as such a force, velocity and power can help better understand athlete development and the underpinning key performance indicators. However, many metrics within reactive jumps remain unsearched. Data will be collected from around 16 university athletes aged 18-25 currently competing in sport with at least one year’s experience in resistance training. Data will be collected using Hawkins dynamic force plates, sampling at 1000 Hz, and has recently been reported to be valid and reliable (Badby et al., 2023, Sports, 23, 4820) Participants will be asked to complete 3 DJ, RCMJ and 10/5 jump trials on two separate occasions separated by a minimum of 48 hours. Athletes will be instructed to perform a quiet standing period for 1 second before and after each jump to calculate body weight by the 5 × standard deviation method. Therefore, the study aims to compare the disparities between all three jumps aswell, sexes and the potential implications on performance. Previous studies displayed significant disparities between male and female participants. Therefore, the null hypothesis for this study is to display a non-significant difference across sexes aswell as between jumps. A limitation to this study is controlling the standardisation of variables such as squat depth during all tests
B10 A Contemporary analysis of tackle height: Implications for head injury risk and tackler technique in Rugby Union
No full textRugby tackles pose significant head injury risks, raising concerns for players' well-being. Despite advocating for lower tackle heights for safety, limited research exists explaining how tackle height influences head characteristics and tackler technique. This study aimed to investigate the effects of two tackle heights, aligned with recent law changes in the community game, on head and joint kinematics for both tackler and the ball carrier. To strengthen ecological validity, innovative techniques were employed, including markerless motion capture and Inertial Measurement Units (IMUs), for tracking of the tackler's joint kinematics and head accelerations until ground contact, addressing a key limitation in previous research. Ethical approval was granted by Cardiff Metropolitan University. Ten male participants (mean ± SD age: 22 ± 3 years, stature: 184 ± 10 cm, mean mass: 94 ± 15 kg) alternated between tackler and ball carrier roles, executing upper and lower body tackles. Theia3D markerless motion capture software (Theia3Dv2022.1.0.2309, Theia Markerless, Inc., Kingston, ON, Canada) and Vicon IMeasureU Blue Trident dual-G IMUs measured tackle height's impact on head and joint kinematics. Discrete joint angles at key events and continuous joint angles normalised from 0% at Step 1 to 100% at Contact were exported. Peak head accelerations and continuous normalised head acceleration data were exported. Statistical analyses included a paired t-test for discrete joint angle data and the Wilcoxon Rank Sum Test for peak linear and angular accelerations. Cohen’s d and effect sizes were calculated for respective analyses. One-dimensional statistical parametric mapping (SPM) and one-dimensional statistical non-parametric mapping (SnPM) facilitated statistical differences across continuous variables of interest. Significant increases (P < 0.05) were noted in ball carriers' inertial head kinematics in the upper body tackle, while no such distinctions were observed for tacklers. The low tackle condition consistently exhibited substantial reductions in bilateral hip flexion, particularly during contact (Effect size; lead: −1.866; rear: −1.977). Lumbopelvic flexion significantly decreased in each event for the low tackle condition, with the largest effect size during contact (−3.91). These findings underscore the heightened inertial loading with higher tackles, indicating an elevated risk of head injury, despite current tackle height regulations. The adjustments made by the tackler in response to varying tackle heights are not evident in knee flexion. Increased knee flexion during the preparatory phase could alleviate the necessity for such a flexed lumbopelvic angle. This study, utilising innovative techniques, highlights the potential for more ecologically valid approaches to biomechanical research in rugby tackling
C01 “You must succeed!”: The role of leader irrational language on follower irrationality.
No full textExtant literature has shown the impact of leadership styles on followers’ cognitive, behavioural, and emotional outcomes. Irrational beliefs are a set of thoughts about oneself, others, and the world, that are rigid, extreme, illogical, and non-empirical. Literature has demonstrated that holding irrational beliefs can be detrimental to one’s well-being and performance (Ellis, David, & Lynn (2010). Rational and Irrational Beliefs: A historical and Conceptual Perspective. In Ellis, David, & Lynn (Eds). Rational and Irrational Beliefs: Research, Theory, and Clinical Practice (pp. 3-22). Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press.). However, the extent to which the use of irrational language by leaders can influence the irrational thoughts of followers remains unexplored. Using a performance context, this study investigated the leader-follower belief transaction and its impact on participants’ cognition and performance in a Stroop test competition. We explored the differential effects of rational vs irrational leadership language styles on psychological outcomes and performance. This is the first study to examine the effects of manipulating language styles (rational vs irrational) on followers’ irrational beliefs. We hypothesised that participants in the irrational leader condition would: (1) endorse greater performance-related irrational beliefs, (2) demonstrate a greater performance decline from baseline to competition, (3) report a greater increase in performance anxiety compared to the rational condition, (4) report a greater increase in negative appraisal towards the performance compared to the rational condition, (5) report a greater decrease in performance-related self-efficacy compared to the rational condition. We recruited 73 participants (24 ± 5 years) from undergraduate (N=49), postgraduate (N=18), and doctorate level (N=6) cohorts. Participants were recruited using convenience and snowball sampling via university platform (Moodle), SONA-system and Prolific. The participants came from MMU (N=10), Staffordshire (N=1), Salford University (N=2) and other universities (N=60). The study was granted institutional ethical approval and all participants completed informed consent before data collection. All data were collected using an online questionnaire (Qualtrics), a performance task (PsychoPy), and data were analysed using SPSS. Results demonstrate no significant between-groups differences in performance-related irrational beliefs (P = 0.158), performance-related appraisal (P = 0.640), performance anxiety (P = 0.587), self-efficacy (P = 0.392), or performance scores (P = 0.448). In other words, participants’ approach to performance was not impacted by leaders’ language style. Our null findings have several implications. First, the manipulation was not strong enough and maybe too subtle. Hence, we should consider making the language style more explicit in the next study. Secondly, it is possible that a single interaction with the leader is not enough. After all, we were observing acute responses to leadership behaviour and should consider observing the long-term effect of exposure to irrational language. Finally, the performance task was maybe deemed as not relevant or purposeful enough for the participants
J21 Using inertial measurement units to estimate ground reaction force and knee angular velocity during decelerations
No full textDespite undergoing anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) reconstruction, athletes continue to present altered ground reaction force (GRF) and knee angular velocities (AV) for 6-24 months as they return to highly demanding tasks such as rapid decelerations (Schmitt et al., 2015, Med Sci Sports Ex, 47, 1426). In-field identification of GRF and knee AV during such deceleration tasks is challenging due to the laboratory restrictions of force platforms and 3D motion capture. Therefore, the use of inertial measurement units (IMU) has been suggested as an appropriate alternative to estimate such variables in the field (Pratt & Sigward, 2018. Sensors, 3460). The study aimed to establish whether IMU-derived measures can be used to estimate GRF and knee AV that are indicative of ACL injury risk during decelerations. Following ethical approval from the Cardiff Metropolitan Ethics Committee, ten male team-sport athletes performed five maximal decelerations at three approach speeds (100, 85, and 70% relative to maximal attainable speed), for a total of fifteen trials per athlete. GRF and kinematics were measured using four Kistler force platforms and Theia3D markerless motion capture. Pearson’s correlation coefficient was used to determine the relationship between IMeasureU Blue Trident IMUs mounted at the thigh or shank and vertical GRF, horizontal GRF, and knee AV during the first step of deceleration. A measure was considered field-viable if a very large significant correlation (r ≥ 0.7; P ≤ 0.05) was observed. At approach speeds of 85 and 70%, shank AV had a very large significant correlation (r = 0.79, 0.76; P = 0.001, 0.01, respectively) to vertical GRF, a moderate to large significant correlation to horizontal GRF (r = 0.46, 0.51; P = 0.04, 0.02, respectively), and a moderate significant correlation to knee AV (r =0.46, 0.40; P = 0.004, 0.02, respectively). At 100% approach speeds, shank AV had no significant correlation to GRF (r <0.3; P>0.05) and a moderate correlation to knee AV (r = 0.40; P = 0.02). This study was the first to find a strong association between shank AV and vertical GRF for whole-body decelerations at 85 and 70% approach speeds. This supports the use of IMUs in sport-specific settings (e.g., football pitches) to better quantify vertical GRF deficits during decelerations. This can further enhance in-field monitoring of GRF deficits and better assess athletes' readiness to return to sport following ACL reconstruction. However, alternative methods are required to accurately estimate horizontal GRFs and knee AV in the field
J28 Effects of caffeine and chronobiotics on morning repeated sprint performance
No full textGross muscular performance (lasting <6 s) is 3.4-10.2% higher in the evening when compared with early morning (17:00-19:00 vs. 06:00-10:00 h; Pullinger et al., 2019). However, there is limited research on the effect of caffeine and chronobioltics (bright light) on gross muscular performance, in the early hours of the morning. Twelve healthy, active male participants (mean±SD; age, 21 ± 2 years, body mass, 79 ± 6 kg; stature, 180 ± 5 cm) volunteered and completed 2 familiarisation sessions and 2 experimental sessions. Experimental condition 1: caffeine pill condition (ingested at 06:30 h and 2; Exposure to bright light for 1 h and exercising for the last 30-min on a cycle ergometer at 07:00 h the morning before morning performance; with dawn simulation exposure for 30-min prior to waking on the testing day. Participants retired at 22:30 and woke at 06:30 h throughout the experiment. Both sessions commence at 07:00 h. On entry to the laboratory participants were seated and after intra-aural temperature (IA) was recorded 30-min. During this time questionnaires were administrated regarding mood and prior sleep. Following this, participants then took part in several tests including agility, hand grip strength, counter movement jump and squat jumps. Agility was measured (Whitty SEM Microgate system, UK). Hand grip strength was measured using a dynamometer and squat and countermovement jump values were measured using a jump mat (best of 3 attempts). After this, participants then completed a warm-up (5-min at 10km/h on a motorised treadmill followed by a combination of stretches). Participants were then asked to complete 10 full effort sprints were time, rating of perceived exertion, heart rate and thermal comfort were recorded after each sprint during the 30 s rest. Blood glucose and lactate were also measured before exercise, post warm-up and post exercise. After 30-min participants were asked to cycle around 160 bpm. Heart rate, RPE and thermal comfort were recorded every 5-min. The aim of the study was to assess the effects of caffeine and chronobiotics (bright light/exercise and dawn simulation) on morning RSP and grip strength
The role of emotional intelligence and emotion recognition ability in romantic relationship satisfaction of adults varying in autistic-like traits
Full text linkResearch suggests that emotional intelligence is important for relationship satisfaction. Some people face challenges with both romantic relationships and aspects of emotional intelligence, for example, autistic people. There has, however, been very limited research into these factors with non-clinical participants with varying levels of autistic like traits. This research aimed to investigate the extent to which both general emotional intelligence (EI) and the specific component of emotion recognition mediated the relationship between autistic-like traits and satisfaction with romantic relationships. A correlational design, with a general population sample, was used in two studies (study 1, n = 139; study 2, n = 183). The results of our studies found that higher emotional intelligence and emotion recognition were associated with higher relationship satisfaction and that those with higher numbers of autistic like traits had lower emotional intelligence and emotion recognition scores. Emotional intelligence, but not emotion recognition, mediated the relationship between autistic like traits and relationship satisfaction. The research provides novel insights into how emotional intelligence and autistic-like traits influence romantic relationship satisfaction and has implications for potential interventions
Positionality, Gender and Reflexivity in Outsider-Insider Research: A case study of interviewing police officers in China
Full text linkThis article examines the intricacies of researcher positionality in a study examining women in policing in China. It aims to shed light on the manifold ways in which researcher positionality – the researcher’s relationship with the participants, gender and other identities – impacts the research process. The study draws from my own experiences, as a female researcher and former insider, engaging in qualitative interviews with both female and male police officers in the context of a feminist inquiry into women in Chinese policing. This article explores the advantages and challenges of outsider-insider research, dissects the role of gender in shaping the research landscape and probes how the researcher’s myriad identities may influence research access, information gathering, data analysis, findings and conclusions. Moreover, it discusses strategies adopted to overcome research barriers. By presenting this outsider-insider research as a case study, the article underscores the vital role of researcher reflexivity in unearthing the truth regarding women’s experiences and upholding academic rigour. It not only advocates for the use of qualitative interviewing as a tool for knowledge production, but also makes important contributes to the fields of feminist research and qualitative inquiry. In addition, it offers compelling narratives of women within Chinese law enforcement, thereby enriching the discourse on gender policing studies
Community Legal Clinics and Clinical Legal Education in Singapore
Full text linkA common thread underlying many clinical legal education initiatives – to support access-to-justice imperatives – is interwoven with broader policy initiatives within a legal system to develop its pro bono legal service channels for the benefit of the wider community. The former can make meaningful contributions towards the pursuit of the latter, while the flourishing of the latter can create valuable opportunities for the growth of the former. One of the major reforms made to Singapore’s legal system in the last decade was the establishment of a nation-wide network of community-based legal clinics, connecting volunteer lawyers with laypersons seeking legal advice and assistance navigating the country’s legal system. The work of such legal clinics can potentially benefit tremendously from engaging the assistance of law students through structured clinical legal education programmes, thereby enabling these lawyers-in-training to develop their practical and professional skills by applying what they have learnt in the classroom to real-world “clients” under the supervision of qualified legal practitioners. This article explores the potential for a closer alignment between the pro bono activities of Community Legal Clinics and the development of clinical legal education initiatives within Singapore’s law schools, analyzing empirical data from the author’s experience volunteering at a legal clinic alongside undergraduate law students to formulate recommendations that may generate desired outcomes on both fronts
When Worlds Collide: Reflections on Casework and Policy Work in Law Clinics and Policy Clinics
Full text linkIn the United Kingdom, policy clinics are generally established as an extension of a university law clinic. Policy clinics give students the opportunity to undertake empirical research, often for the first time in their legal studies, to further investigate societal issues which impact diverse communities. The University of Exeter’s Policy Clinic is no exception. As a new component of the University of Exeter’s Community Law Clinic, the Policy Clinic aims to influence public policies that are relevant to the legal issues that Community Law Clinic clients collectively face.
This practice report will explore the author’s first-hand experiences of working in the Community Law Clinic as a student legal advisor within the ‘Access to Justice Clinic’ undergraduate module at the University of Exeter, as a research intern collaborating with the Policy Clinic on a scoping project in its nascent year and, finally, as a support officer in a developing Policy Clinic. In the context of these three roles, this report will discuss the differences between research practices, the extent of academic and professional involvement, client interactions, and relationships in both clinics. Despite these differences, this report concludes that working at both clinics allows for developing skills in various contexts, which leads to the constant redefinition of integral values such as collaboration, trust, and respect. Ultimately, working at both law clinics and policy clinics are complementary, seeing that the fascinating interplay between casework and policy work reiterates the distinction between legal theory and “real world law”—providing invaluable insight and experience to law students regardless of jurisdiction