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Exhibiting Fashion Toolkit
No full textThe Exhibiting Fashion Toolkit is designed for curators who make exhibitions using collections of historic dress, textiles, costume and fashion. It is designed for a wide range of curators, from generalists to historic dress specialists and for curators who are new to exhibition-making as well as those who are experienced exhibition-makers.
The Exhibiting Fashion Toolkit aims to support curators to approach exhibition-making as a creative practice, as a space in which new stories can be told about and with historic dress, textiles, costume and fashion. It encourages curators to be experimental and playful and it aims to give curators the confidence to work in new ways with their collections
The Euro-Vampire
Get PDFThis chapter surveys European vampire films made between 1957 and 1979. It presents an overview of key films of this period, recognizing the dominance of female vampires as embodiments of the conflicting attitudes about changing gender roles occurring during this time. It also investigates the crossover between representations of the female vampire and the witch and the influence of folktales from Eastern Europe. The chapter explores how this focus on female representation leads to more explicit explorations of female sexuality and lesbian romance. The chapter also considers adaptations of Dracula and the influence of Murnau’s Nosferatu (1922), exploring how these texts are used as vehicles to examine the effects of recent historical events and the rapid process of modernization and post-War capitalism
Bittersweet Shirts: Combining AI, digital printing & hand-making approaches to inform guidelines for circular, local & urban textile/clothing design processes
Get PDFHow can designers use AI, in combination with digital and handmaking processes, to create upcycled clothing for local, circular and urban contexts? This research builds on previous work which proposed early in the field of study, that designers needed to use technology as a supporting tool when making redesigned and remanufactured textiles and clothing (Earley 2010). This latest research for the Herewear Project, considers how new open-access artificial intelligence platforms (such as DALL-E) can support the design/redesign of processes and products for circular fashion, making the processes more time efficient, whilst retaining the aesthetic finish and connection that only hand-crafted techniques can deliver (Giri et al 2019). The research also considered how a sense of local identity and connection between users and waste clothing can be supported via the use of AI tools.
The author has been making ‘upcycled’ polyester shirts since 1999, with each shirt collection exploring different ideas about how designers can create a more sustainable, circular and equitable industry. Bittersweet Shirt (2023) has been re-crafted from a secondhand item to help people connect with nature in their region, and at the same time appreciate how our changing tastes make us waste clothes which can be transformed into something new and culturally relevant.
Bittersweet Shirt Concept. This research enabled the author to act as a fashion microbusiness and test the Herewear Project’s Bio TEN guidelines (Earley & Forst 2023) and the approaches to extending life of biobased products (Earley et al 2023). For this design brief, a local connection was sought to users based in Iasi, Romania, which is where project partner Maibine is based. Wormwood grows in abundance in Romania and has long been used as a medicinal herb for cuts and bruises, to treat indigestion, help with fever and infections, and as a type of insect repellent. It is also used in the liquor absinthe and to flavour other drinks like Vermouth.
Research shows that the fashion and textile industry has already produced enough polyester to clothe the world population, if it were to be reused and recycled. Oil is mined for transportation fuel, and polyester and plastic are made from the cheap waste parts of crude oil, which are not of the quality required to make petroleum. As global economies transition away from fossil-based fuels, we need new bio-based textiles for fashion, that can replace synthetics in our wardrobe. However, we must also reuse what we have already made. In this research design guidelines that were being created for biobased clothing were further tested with used polyester shirts.
Bittersweet Shirt was made with multiple bittersweet elements in the brief: the paradox of polyester and waste; the health and alcohol drinking habits associated with the plant used as decoration on it; the impact of AI on design and cultural economies and practices; and the local and global dynamics of fashion in a time of great political, social and economic unrest
Translation as an explicit practice in design research
Get PDFTranslation as a practice, has many applications and histories. In a research context, the translation of knowledge from one domain to another brings scientific knowledge and critical ideas to people and industries. Translation between different forms of knowledge can enable collaboration between research, industry, policy and society to enable systemic knowledge co-production and impact. This paper explores the ways that design is intrinsically translational, and why translation is now becoming an expanded and explicit practice in design research. As the complexity of multidisciplinary and multistakeholder collaborative research increases, the translational nature of design could play a vital role in convening knowledge and creating impact through synthesis and interpretation into tangible artefacts and interventions. This raises the question: how might design explicitly define its role as a translator in new contexts of research and practice
Capture/Curate Student Design Process Toolkit: Assessment for Outcome Based Learning in Art and Design
Get PDFIn the Capture/Curate case study Dr David Preston talks about his intervention to help students understand the value of their process work. Produced and edited by Cath Caldwell, it contains two student-authored illustrations demonstrating their understanding of how their learning outcomes mapped to the marking criteria for assessment. This case study is a basis for practice sharing and discussion going forward within the UAL colleges and in the UK sector. The Capture/Curate case study is included in the Assessment in Higher Education conference, Manchester June 2024
Mary Prince Dictating to Susanna Strickland
No full text'Mary Prince Dictating to Susanna Strickland' is a painting that was first shown in the 2024 solo exhibition 'Kimathi Donkor: Black History Painting' at the Niru Ratnam gallery in London, England.
The work's title is a reference to Mary Prince, the African-Caribbean abolitionist whose landmark, 1831 autobiography 'The History of Mary Prince' contributed to the struggle against trans-Atlantic slavery. The painting's title also refers to the writer Susanna Moodie née Strickland, who transcribed Mary Prince's oral testimony in London
Photography - A Queer History
No full textPhotography - A Queer History examines how photography has been used by artists to capture, create and expand the category 'Queer'. It bookmarks different thematic concerns central to queer photography, forging unexpected connections to showcase the diverse ways the medium has been used to fashion queer identities and communities.
How has photography advanced fights against LGBTQ+ discrimination? How have artists used photography to develop a queer aesthetic? How has the production and circulation of photography served to satisfy the queer desire for images, and created transnational solidarities?
Photography - A Queer History includes the work of 84 artists. It spans different historical and national contexts, and through a mix of thematic essays and artist-centred texts brings young photographers into conversation with canonical images
Data-Driven Approaches to Narrative Personalisation through Psychologically Motivated Models
Get PDFAI-driven personalisation offers a clear opportunity for creative industries to engage audiences more effectively. This project seeks to understand how such personalisation can be effectively and ethically exploited in story experiences to generate greater audience engagement. More specifically, this thesis addresses personalisation of narratives to accommodate the user’s preferences, with an aim to understand and accommodate them better. For this, three studies are conducted.
In the first study, an interactive narrative is created with the purpose of incorporating the user’s choices to create a user profile featuring the Five-Factor Model (FFM) and the Need for Affect (NFA), with the questions designed to understand the user’s preferences within the narrative and therefore possibly indicating their personality in general. Next, a narrative is personalised to fit with the user’s estimated personality. It is hypothesised that the choices the user makes within the narrative would have at least some correlation with the choices they would make in real life, meaning the narrative could be used as a personality test. Even if little or no correlation with real-life preferences can be found, the choices could indicate preferences within fictional narratives, such as how complex, imaginative or painful they prefer narratives to be, and what the protagonist should be like. Nevertheless, it did turn out the interactive narrative could be used to measure at least Extraversion and Emotional Stability. The effectiveness of personalising the story is then tested, seeing how effective it is to change the style of language according to Extraversion levels, the protagonist personality according to other FFM factors, and the ending according to the NFA. The results were strikingly strong, with personalisation appearing to improve the experience across all traits and with both personality test and interactive narrative results.
In the second study, we attempt to use Natural Language Processing (NLP) for modifying the language, so that the personalisation could be done automatically and not by hand. For this, a number of language models were trained and used to create different version of a short story. Different versions of the ending were also created. The results were then tested on participants, and their opinions on the story and its language were compared with their FFM personality scores, their reading skills and their age and gender. The results presented a complicated picture featuring some surprises.
In the third study, the Myers–Briggs Type Indicator (MBTI) was used instead, with several machine learning algorithms tried for classifying users by their MBTI type based on text they have written on social media. It was suggested this approach could be used for an MBTI-based recommender system that identifies novels with authors, characters or narrators similar to the reader. The results suggested that the approach could indeed work, with results in the extraversion dimension particularly promising, but better data would be needed to gain strong enough results for a good recommender system.
There are several potential impacts relating to this work. It could lead to the creation of new measures for testing people’s preferences in art. User profiles using the measures could then be used to personalise narratives to fit with the user’s preferences in various ways. By integrating personality frameworks, recommender algorithms can suggest novels, films and other works that not only align with users' personality traits but also cater to their broader preferences, offering a more tailored and enriching experience, with little usage data needed. Similar approaches with NLP can also be used to alter pre-existing works.
An extensive literature review is also conducted, giving a wide introduction to the topic and related fields. This is then used as a background for suggesting more possible future pathways for personalising narratives
Delve
Get PDFAn exhibition of photos, drawings, moving image artworks and paintings, exploring the relationship of space and the fantastic, at Josep Renau Gallery, Faculty of Fine Art San Carlos, Universitat Politècnica de Valencia, September - October 2024
Exhibition concept/curation: Lucía I. King
Artists: Pak-Keung Wan, Helena Goldwater, Mochu, Mia Taylor, Javier Olivera & Lucía I. King
Curatorial partners: Miriam Del Saz Barragán, Laura Silvestre García & Miguel Angel Herrero Cortell
- Faculty of Fine Art San Carlos, Universitat Politècnica de Valencia, Spain, and University of Brighton, UK.
Guest participant: Patricia García García, Universidad de Alcalá, Madrid
Managing Digital Innovation in Publishing: Collaborations and Para-organisations for Creative Change
No full textReflecting proactively on a growing industry “dilemma”, this book explores how publishing businesses can and do successfully experiment and innovate in digital publishing through collaboration.
Many sectors of publishing are still structured around print production, with digital innovation in the consumer arena generally focused on different book formats, such e-books and audiobooks, rather than brand-new types of products. Publishers need to innovate around different sorts of content and digital formats as consumers change their media habits. However, their pricing, business and risk models, and workflows are reflective of a legacy of print publishing; and as print commands so much revenue publishers do not want to derail their main business as they experiment. Drawing on an analysis of collaboration and network theory and four in-depth qualitative case studies in different sectors, this research suggests that collaboration, particularly engaging with the wider creative sector, is key to the sustainable development of new types of products. It points to the characteristics of a successful digital collaboration and explains how to manage publishing innovation alongside the existing business, through para-organisations. Considering novel approaches to innovation, such as iterative software-style approaches and agile project management, as well as new business models, such as those employed in games development, the author shows how introducing new people – from software developers to competitors – can help instill a collaborative mindset within the organization and facilitate constructive experimentation.
This is a publication that is based on PhD research