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Seed
No full textSeed brings together three video works by Martin Westwood: A Seed is a Stone Until it is Sown (2011), Re-cut Piece (working title) (2016), and (S.F.M.) 1639 — 1733-34 (S.B.) (2025). Though distinct in their formal qualities, the works share concerns with value and authenticity articulated through gestures and motifs that intensify materialities and that mediate exchanges between object and document, labour and image, sound and action.
In A Seed is a Stone Until it is Sown, coins function as counters in a game of solitaire. These objects simultaneously tokens and ‘the real thing’ - are initiated into a system of reserves, circulation and disposal. Re-cut Piece (working title) extends this inquiry into the relationship between photographic documentation and live performance—or, the reserves of experience and the circulation of the mediated image. Documentary photography of audience members in an iconic performance work is taken as the initial motif to display the activity of kneading dough into photocopier carbon and microphone windshields. This labour is interrupted by multiple video clips of Black Rod performing their annual role of ceremonially opening the British Parliament.
Both A Seed.. and Recut.. explore how acts of exchange, whether economic or symbolic, reveal tensions between the tangible, the transmissible and the understanding that objects persist through their continual re-enactment. Each work employs video as a solution to capturing motifs and gestures that elude pictorial or sculptural modes of practice, avoiding live performance as an outcome that inadequately framed the motifs and truncated their circulation/mediation. These “perverse aggregates” emerge to become sites of negotiation between mobile and immobile agencies.(S.F.M.) 1639 — 1733-34 (S.B.) advances these ideas toward a proposed image of “ur-economy” - a prototype of exchange preceding the division of economy into spheres of commodity, language, and body. The work’s hour-long anamorphically corrected footage conflates specific details from two canonical paintings: soap bubbles are blown through a print of the friction hole upon Saint Francis’ habit. Here, animation arises from the shifting intervals and rhythms between repeated recordings of the bubbles’ paths and the continual micro-edits to the friction hole. This shift, between the still and the moving image, evokes accumulation and expenditure, appropriation and gift, as the work’s progression advances and recedes
Capturing the Moment
Full text linkCapturing the moment: facilitating learning from the margins. A photographic essay by Fashion and Art Academics Creating Equity (FACE) member, Kevin J Brazant, University of the Arts London, United Kingdom. Exploration of Facilitating Learning from the Margins: A Third Space Innovation Case Study
Fashion in an Age of Transindividual Disruption: Feeling the fashion milieu through fashion media and mobile phone technology
Full text linkIn an era where mobile phone ownership among UK young adults (16-24) reaches nearuniversal penetration (99% as of 2024), this thesis interrogates the complex interrelationship between mobile technology, fashion media consumption, and user affect.
The research originates from observations at the London College of Fashion in 2013, where students' profound digital immersion appeared to compromise their engagement with physical learning environments.
Drawing upon the theoretical frameworks of Bernard Stiegler, Maurice Merleau-Ponty, and Gilbert Simondon, this study examines fashion media as technological prostheses that mediate affective flows within digital networks, fundamentally shaping users' selfunderstanding and worldview. Through a postphenomenological methodology incorporating micro-phenomenological interviews and focus groups, the research investigates how technological disruption reconfigures community formation and social bonds.
The study introduces the concept of ‘the fashion milieu’ to theorize the intricate entanglement between embodied experience and socio-cultural dimensions of fashion media consumption. This framework, coupled with Simondon's notion of transindividuation, illuminates the dynamic tensions between individual and collective identity formation in digital spaces.
The findings reveal a paradoxical phenomenon: while fashion media accessed through mobile devices fosters philia (social connection), it simultaneously disrupts transindividual relations, generating patterns of digital dependency characterized by anxiety and addictive behaviours. This research advances scholarly understanding of how mobile-mediated fashion media consumption reconfigures affective experiences and social formations in contemporary culture.
This thesis makes significant contributions to digital media studies, fashion theory, and phenomenological approaches to technology by demonstrating how mobile devices, as mediators of fashion media consumption, fundamentally alter both individual affect and collective social fabric. The findings have implications for understanding digital well-being, social cohesion, and the evolution of fashion communication in an increasingly mobile-first world
'Nothing More Precious': the Emotional Inheritance of a Hair Locket
Full text linkThis open access book uses new methodologies from the history and sociology of emotions to analyse why people select specific tokens of family inheritance, and how this influences personal identity, cultural heritage, and national memory.
Much of our cultural heritage emerges from family histories – with many of the objects curated in museums, stories passed between generations, and monuments marking notable figures being the direct product of familial collections, donations, and investments. This edited collection uses emotion as an analytical tool to interpret such behaviours, and offers novel ways to investigate how and why family inheritances from a range of social, racial, and ethnic groups maintain their cultural power, as they move through time and from the private to the public spheres.
Drawing on a variety of case studies, and exploring items ranging from Victorian library chairs, to quilts, religious texts, and pieces of intergenerational writing – this volume considers the role of objects and inheritances in the emotional lives of individuals and families, and acknowledges them as agents in the creation of histories and identities. Combining insight from scholars of the history of emotions with that of historians and researchers situated outside the academy, this collection allows fresh insights on family history and material culture to emerge
Critical Puppetry and the boundaries of the Human in Edwin Salas’ 7 Deadly Sins in the Border
No full textAs both surrogate bodies and bodies themselves, puppets trouble the boundaries and borders of the human. This chapter will analyse Edwin Salas’s use of puppetry and material performance in 7 Deadly Sins in the Border (2018) to explore the racialised dehumanisation of migrants and the rhetorical and physical violence which are employed to police and maintain geopolitical borders. Analysing Salas’s use of conventionally figurative puppetry alongside his use of items of food as performing objects, I suggest the material vulnerability of the latter provides unique opportunities to contest liberal humanist constructions of the human. Throughout, I assert the value of critical puppetry as a theoretical framework, arguing that puppetry, a process by which objects are humanised, can provide unique insights into racialisation, a process by which humans are objectified
Insiders Perspective: From people of colour employed in the UK luxury and fashion industries
No full text'Insiders Perspectives' a collaborative white paper. From people of colour employed in the UK luxury and fashion industries
The Outsiders Perspective have partnered with Fashion Business School, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London to collect and analyse research, which has formed the basis of this white paper. This report is written and produced by The Outsiders Perspective.
With special thanks to Liz Gee and Hannah Middleton for their ongoing support and academic expertise.
We have met with people of colour working in industry and as we listen to their experiences, it is clear there are silos across all businesses. There is a distinct lack of structured space at industry level in which their voices can be expressed and listened to freely. Where people collectively discuss their challenges without being perceived as challenging. Or where they can discuss difficult topics, without being branded difficult. Where they do not feel like a minority.
We have launched that space through TOP Community. An industry-first gathering of employees from ethnically diverse communities. A positive platform for collective discussion and innovative thinking. A space to build a sense of belonging, to foster connections with peers and where people can help steer our industry to become a more inclusive place for everyone
The Value of the Copy
No full textThis paper discusses the Value of the Copy (VoC) project, a hybrid teaching initiative undertaken as an alternative to traditional student exchange programmes, piloted between October 2022 and May 2024. In contrast to the traditional exchange of individual students this initiative was between student and staff groups and introduced students to inter-institutional research and knowledge exchange. The project was a collaboration between Central Saint Martins (CSM), École des Beaux-Arts de Paris (BA), Royal Academy of Art, The Hague (KABK), and Glasgow School of Art (GSA). It aimed to activate historic plaster cast and reprographic study collections as dynamic teaching resources and utilise them as expanded studios through cross-cultural, online and on-site collaboration. Students engaged with fire-damaged casts (GSA), politically vandalised remains of casts (KABK), a historic and publicly neglected cast and copies collection (BA) and 1960’s paper squeezes of Roman typeface (CSM). This paper identifies essential elements, challenges, and proposes a sustainable model for future networked projects. VoC offered students an opportunity to engage deeply with historical artefacts and their contemporary relevance, overcoming barriers to physical mobility through virtual means and using collections as expanded studio spaces. This exploration was not only educationally enriching but serves as a prototype for remote and hybrid international arts education in the post-pandemic, post-Brexit context. Outcomes included exhibitions, digital outputs, pedagogic insights, research funding bids and a renewed understanding of collections as active pedagogical tools. The project encouraged the exploration of questions around authenticity, reproduction, institutional legacy, and contemporary reinterpretation through the lens of student-led research and inter-school collaborative production
Local and Ephemeral Graphic Traces
Full text linkIt is important that graphic design is included in this discourse as a part of the HIV and AIDS visual culture legacy. Whilst artworks may be preserved in collections and catalogues, and mass media campaigns discussed in cultural studies, it is the small, local, and ephemeral visual traces that are in danger of being left out of the story of HIV and AIDS. Drawing upon imagery produced or adapted for small local campaigns – flyers, fundraising leaflets, condom packaging and other forms of graphic ephemera from the UK, AIDS is revealed to be a different epidemic for different communities. Through finding, often by happenstance, personal testimonies and recollections connected to images and items that have never been widely published, alternative interpretations and insights emerge. The process and experience of creating interventions also had strong individual impact. Anecdotal evidence in combination with the ephemera adds value to an archive, and the gathering of oral histories can often be enriched when inspired by a visual trigger. There are intriguing items from the 80s and 90s where provenance has already been lost, but these can still have a useful speculative and discursive role. The recently published Documenting the HIV and AIDS epidemic: a survey of HIV and AIDS archives in the United Kingdom report offers a timely opportunity to consider how to make the contributions from those with lived experience available. It is significant that, alongside the gathering of information about archival material held in recognised institutions and libraries, the project had a high response rate regarding private and personal collections, many of which contain unique items of graphic ephemera. How can these ‘minor transient documents of everyday life’ be made use of and disseminated in order to enrich the HIV and AIDS legacy with an impact that belies the size, cost or original reach of the objects themselves
Ethylcellulose oleogel lip glosses: the effects of different emollients and pigments on rheology and textural properties
Full text linkThe Eco-Conscious Fashion Model: Sustainable Practices and Brand Development
Full text linkThe study aims to empirically test the impact of mandated changes in sustainable packaging, such as certification logos and labels, on consumer attention and actual consumption behavior. It seeks to address the suggestion that packaging recycling policy interventions or brand certification labels that enhance the visibility of packaging elements can significantly influence consumer attention and purchasing decisions. By focusing on visual cues and communication strategies, the research aims to bridge the gap between consumer interest in sustainability and actual purchasing behavior, thereby contributing to the development of environmentally responsible fashion brands. A holistic approach to sustainable packaging is essential to connect visual attention, consumer choice, and perceptions of environmental brand integrity. A significant challenge is the "attitude-behavior gap," where consumer interest in sustainable products often does not translate into purchases due to price sensitivity (Blas Riesgo et al., 2022, 2023; Ceylan, 2019; Kim et al., 2020; Mishraa et al., 2023; Singh et al., 2024). Subconscious influences of sustainable packaging remain largely unexplored, as consumers often make "mindless" visual judgments (Clement, 2007). Identifying specific visual cues that subconsciously foster positive associations and purchase intent is critical. Packaging design plays a crucial role in driving attention, with larger and centrally located elements being more likely to be fixated upon (Orquin et al., 2020). However, sustainability labels often receive less attention due to design challenges, highlighting the need for effective communication strategies. Additionally, the long-term performance, scalability, and environmental impact of new materials like bioplastics remain unestablished, as does consumer understanding of their correct disposal (Blas Riesgo et al., 2022). Research should focus on integrating social sustainability attributes with environmental cues to influence consumer choice. Effective communication strategies can bridge knowledge gaps and accelerate the adoption of sustainable packaging. By addressing these challenges, brands can enhance their environmental integrity and foster consumer trust, ultimately promoting sustainable consumption behaviors (Clement, 2007; Orquin et al., 2020; Blas Riesgo et al., 2022). The research employs a mixed-method approach, combining eye-tracking experiments, questionnaires, and interviews. Eye-tracking technology will be used to measure fixation likelihood, fixation duration, and pupil diameter, providing insights into how consumers visually engage with sustainable packaging. A simulated environment will present consistent visual stimuli, including sustainable certification labels and logos, ensuring controlled presentation of packaging elements. Participants will rate logos on environmental friendliness, sustainability, and responsible sourcing, classifying them as "targets" (strong sustainability) or "distractors." Metrics such as time to first fixation and heatmaps will be used to analyze visual salience and emotional responses. Questionnaires and interviews will further explore participants' perceptions, motivations, and decision-making processes, providing qualitative insights to complement the quantitative data. The study contributes to the field of sustainable fashion by offering actionable insights for brands and policymakers. It highlights the importance of visual design in sustainable packaging and provides evidence-based recommendations for enhancing the visibility and effectiveness of certification logos and labels. By demonstrating how sustainable packaging certifications can improve durability, resource efficiency, and waste reduction, the research incentivizes brands to adopt reusable, recyclable, and compostable materials. Additionally, the study addresses the scalability and environmental impact of new materials, offering a roadmap for brands to integrate sustainable practices into their operations. The findings will guide decision-making by showcasing how external factors, such as certifications and policies, and internal considerations, such as brand reputation and packaging expertise, can be strategically aligned to promote sustainability. The research emphasizes inclusivity by considering diverse consumer perspectives and motivations. By employing a mixed-method approach, the study captures both quantitative and qualitative data, ensuring a comprehensive understanding of consumer behavior. The use of eye-tracking technology allows for objective measurement of visual attention, while questionnaires and interviews provide insights into subjective perceptions and motivations. The study also addresses the scalability and environmental impact of new materials, ensuring that the findings are applicable to a wide range of brands and industries. By promoting certifications and highlighting incentives for adopting sustainable practices, the research fosters collaboration between brands, consumers, and policymakers, creating a shared vision for environmentally responsible fashion. This research is novel in its focus on the subconscious influence of sustainable packaging on consumer behaviour, an area that remains largely underexplored. While previous studies have highlighted the "attitude-behavior gap," this study delves deeper into the visual and emotional factors that drive consumer attention and decision-making. By employing eye-tracking technology, the research provides a unique perspective on how visual elements of packaging, such as certification logos and labels, capture attention and influence perceptions. Additionally, the study addresses the scalability and environmental impact of new materials like bioplastics, offering a comprehensive approach to sustainable packaging that combines visual, emotional, and practical considerations