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    Drawn together: illustration, community and collective world-making

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    How does illustration bring to light the concerns, interests and challenges of (a) community? Can illustration help us think about the conditions of sociality more generally? And how do participatory project-structures, one of the key methods used in this research, impact on the practice of illustration? This practice-led PhD argues that collaborative illustration projects can create the possibility for individuals to encounter one another in an expression of community. In carefully considered participatory project-structures illustrations that refer to joint matters of concern can act as catalysts for an encounter, focal points for the duration of the interaction and as its record thereafter. Three discrete illustration projects were undertaken as part of this research. For each one of them I collaborated with a group or organisation in London, inviting participants to contribute to a collaborative illustration that emerged through the project: Walking the Elephant was conducted with the local community in and around the now defunct Elephant and Castle Shopping Centre; Write Women into History emerged from my collaboration with a writing-group of older feminists; and Cracks in the Pavement is the result of a walking and collaborative mapping project during the Covid-19 ‘lockdown’. Drawing on 20th century European philosophers such as Edmund Husserl, Martin Heidegger, Hannah Arendt and Jean-Luc Nancy whose work discusses question of worldmaking, sociality, relationality and the political – this PhD interweaves my collaborative illustration practice with philosophy in order to expose and delineate aspects of our social co-existence. Illustration, in the form of co-created visual documents, presents itself as the space where we can reconsider, record and reflect on the relations that occur in our everyday experience of community and practices of collective world-making

    Foreword

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    The articles gathered in the present issue of Afterall interrogate and challenge the imposition of normative or dominant modes of being, perception and expression. The artists, art practices and ideas investigated work, in various ways, to enable forms of communication and living that have been historically and often violently disabled by society. An important thread running through the issue concerns the reconfiguration of voice, language and sound in art practices that centre the perspective of D/deaf and/or non-verbal communicators. In moving away from a purely logocentric and sonic conception of these three interrelated terms, their multimodal, plural and unbounded articulations are revealed

    Beyond Sustainability as Education-As-Usual

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    A paper presentation at the Digital Fashion Multilogue, Berlin September 2023

    Isabella Tessier [pseud. Marie Duval] (1847-1890), cartoonist

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    In book: Oxford Dictionary of National Biography Publisher: Oxford University Press Biography of Isabella Tessier aka Marie Duva

    Towards a Fusion: Embedding Object-Based Learning for addressing Eco-Social Justice in Design Education

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    Peer-reviewed conference paper, 15th International Conference of the European Academy of Design (EAD 2023). This paper investigates the potential of object-based learning (OBL) in higher education. It critically engages with key literature and contributors in the field of OBL, and outlines a methodological framework to inform future empirical research. Situated within the early stages of a doctoral project, the paper explores the need to evolve curriculum design to address climate action and social justice, highlighting the opportunities offered by OBL to embed eco-social justice perspectives within design education

    Museum Interpretations of Byzantium

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    This chapter examines the representations of Byzantium as effected through two national museum exhibitionary complexes. The first exhibitionary complex is in the British Museum in London, UK and the second in the Byzantine and Christian Museum in Athens, Greece. This chapter explains that national museum exhibitions result in the presentation of ‘mythological’ constructs of Byzantium as the only ‘truth’ to their audiences. Importantly, it demonstrates that what is finally communicated through the presentation of ‘mythological’ constructs of Byzantium is ‘national’ identity and dominant cultural values. The latter is effected through the representation of the Byzantine Empire as part of the identity of the dominant cultural group of the country to which each national museum belongs

    Smart Bras: Developing an Experience-Centred Bra Wearables Design Process with and for Mature Women

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    This theory and practice study developed an experience-centred design and development process for bras with “smart” capabilities, termed Bra Wearables (BW) — a subsection of smart bras with electrical, mechanical, and chemical properties. With the 2005 commercialisation and subsequent decline of Sports Bra Wearables (SBW), questions arose as to why this innovative niche failed. This study posits that the bra must evolve into BW by becoming a “woman-centred technology” (Almeida, 2017), created with women’s involvement, needs, and experience at the centre. Moreover, focus should be on marginalised women, such as mature women (MW) who are often omitted from the fashion and technology space. Underpinned by a Deweyan Pragmatist framework, a woman-centred and pragmatic research-through/into-design approach – this exploratory study follows a Four-Stage Research Process (Research, Define, Develop, and Reflect) to execute the newly created BW Design and Development Process (BWD&DP). The “research” stage disseminates a questionnaire for Western-based mature (45 – 64 years) Black and white women. Results substantiate a Factors Affecting Bra Experience Conceptual Model, indicating the direct connection between ageing and the bra-wearing experience on MW’s feminine-sexuality, identity, and body-image. Furthermore, the questionnaire uncovers differences in mature Black and white women’s bra experience. Lastly, a Technology Acceptance Model (TAM) uncovers that the design process influences BW interest, which strongly and positively influences the acceptance of BW. This denotes the significance of developing a participatory BWD&DP for BW acceptance by wearers. The “define” stage realises the “Research & Concept Development” phase of the initial BWD&DP, focusing solely on mature Black women through a mixture of qualitative methods. Thematic analysis is used to analyse data from a generative workshop and digital dialogue, while the interview data are examined through a theory-driven codebook. The codebook underpins the interdisciplinary Bra Experience Theoretical Framework, evidencing that bra experience is complex and psychologically, socially, and affectively connected for bra wearers. Data are triangulated from the quantitative and qualitative methods to extend the Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) Consumer Needs Model, tying theory and practice, and developing design criteria for BW. The “develop” stage concludes the “Research & Concept Development” phase with a participative creative workshop and enacts the “Pattern & Prototype Development” phase with a digital fit models session, design practice producing two BW prototypes, and a critique-driven focus group. Participants complete the phase by evaluating the actualised prototypes and demonstrating the importance of physically interacting with the prototypes. The design-researcher’s personal experience becomes essential as it enables insights to be accessed about intertwining hardware and traditional bra materials, processes, and new manners of designing with and for participants. The “reflect” stage concludes the research process, allowing for reflections on the developed BWD&DP, validations from bra designers and wearable technology experts, and originality of the research methodology. This research-through/into-design approach establishes the need for empathy to centre experience throughout the BWD&DP utilising empathic conceptualisations (Surma-Aho and Hölttä-Otto, 2018) and empathy-based methods such as ‘body-storming’ (Buchenau and Fulton Suri, 2000) and ‘drawing-as-seeing’ (Mida and Casey, 2020). This study confirms the need to utilise empathy to understand marginalised bra-wearers experiences and examine the wearer-garment experience through an interdisciplinary theoretical experiential framework to design for future garment experiences. Moreover, the developed BWD&DP suggests an artisanal approach is apt when designing experience-centred BW. The findings of this study have practical implications for smart bra and BW researchers and technologists seeking to develop new concepts, design-researchers exploring new methods of engaging wearers in the design process, and fashion researchers exploring new ways of understanding the wearer-garment relationship. Additionally, industry may find the approaches utilised to be helpful in developing an experience-centred design process

    The use of digital pedagogies for accessible and equitable teaching and learning of fashion design for sustainability: a case study

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    We find ourselves in the midst of an ecological crisis. The all-encompassing knowledge that dominant human activity is breaching our planetary boundaries and perpetuating inequality amongst each other. This calls for those societies with the power and the means to do so to re-examine and redesign our practices. Education is a leverage point for fundamental shifts in society, and we are at a time when the role of education must facilitate transformative learning, that is: unlearning some established patterns of thinking and behaviour, re-learning sustainable patterns where appropriate, and new learning to be able to recognise, create and engage with necessary alternatives (Sterling 2013)

    Microsong Cycle

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    These six micro songs are written for the Zöllner-Roche duo & Peter Falconer. Accordion - Eva Zöllner Clarinet - Heather Roche Voice - Peter Falconer The compositions feature original micro fiction by Rose Biggin and Keir Cooper. ​ 1. Linguine 2. Charlene from Big Data 3. Tales of George 4. Thingamy-on-Sea 5. Escape from Ekphrasis 6. Isn't It, Jus

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