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The BIO TEN Design Guidelines: Inspiring biobased, local, durable and circular innovation in fashion textiles
Get PDFUsing design to change the way we make, use and reuse resources, materials, products, and services, has been widely recognised as an important element in creating a lower-impact clothing industry. A broad range of designers and sectors are involved in the various processes of decision-making that producing textiles and clothing entails. The research presented in this paper is concerned with how we might train professional designers working in SME’s – small to medium scale enterprises - across Europe to make durable, long-life clothing that will be appropriate and fit for use within the emerging circular bioeconomy. This paper presents work developed as part of the design work package of the HEREWEAR project. The project is an EU H2020 FNR-2020 funded initiative (Food and Natural Resources), bringing together 15 different partners from 13 countries to explore systemic innovation for circular, biobased, local textiles and fashion. The HEREWEAR consortium is developing new fibres from agricultural waste -agriwaste - and pioneering (digitised) production, use and business models for local contexts. The design researchers in the project are tasked with the development of guidelines for biobased, circular, and local fashion textile design. This paper introduces the guidelines and discusses their value as a tool for professional training of design stakeholders, in the transition to a sustainable and circular fashion industry
Value in Design: Neoliberalism versus Pragmatism
Get PDFThis article contrasts two radically different approaches to valuation—neoliberal and pragmatic—using each frame to consider value in design. Neoliberalism is outcomes-focused, maximizing value through different but commensurable forms, which are aggregated and ranked using a common denominator for the purposes of competition. Pragmatism is process-focused, with a variety of values negotiated and configured through valuation inquiries in context-specific ways. This article argues that, in line with pragmatism and in contrast to neoliberalism, design practice is based on diverse value orientations through a material and temporal process shaped in accordance with different purposes. The argument suggests that the way valuation is performed in design is an alternative to the reductive but dominant neoliberal approach. This prompts consideration of the “performative agency” concept—that design practice can transform how valuation is carried out, presenting and sustaining an alternative model
Into the Woods: The Green Spaces of Huillet and Straub’s Workers, Peasants and The Return of The Prodigal Son — Humiliated
No full textReshoring: A Road to Industry 4.0 Transformation
Get PDFThe phenomenon of reshoring and its impact on global trade has recently garnered the attention of not only practitioners but also policymakers and scholars. Numerous scholars have highlighted the challenges of reshoring, such as supply chain disruption, labour shortages and sustainability issues, from various perspectives. Some have pinpointed technological advancements as enablers for addressing these challenges through the deployment of cloud-based artificial intelligence technologies and efficient remote management as part of the Industry 4.0 transformation. As Industry 4.0 shifts from being technology-driven to value-driven, this introductory essay for the special issue on reshoring delves into the current boundaries of our understanding and proposes recommendations for future research on this topic
Population Control and Sex Selective Abortion in China and India: A Feminist Critique of Criminalization
Get PDFThis chapter outlines some of the key concerns with criminalising sex-selective abortion (SSA) in China and India, highlighting that it offers no identifiable options for sustainable, women-centred, progressive change. Instead, the criminalisation of SSA sits firmly within other forms of carceral feminism. Framing SSA as ?female foeticide,? ?femicide,? or ?gendercide? is problematic, as such terms advance arguments for limiting women?s access to safe abortion through the indication and synonymisation of abortion with the notion of killing. Such a conflation of abortion and killing runs many risks in compromising the long struggles of feminist movements globally to defend access to safe abortion. While representing different ideological regimes, in both contexts, criminalising SSA has contributed to and bolstered the assertion of state power but without the feminist structural analysis of what generates son preference and daughter aversion
The Discarded Garment in Motion in 1950s and 1960s Narrative Film through the Lens of Drawing
Get PDFThis practice-based study asks: In what ways can momentary depictions in 1950s and 1960s narrative film of discarded garments in motion be interrogated and reinterpreted through drawing? It examines how drawing can apprehend and translate the enigmatic fragments of narrative film in which female film characters discard an item of clothing and, in so doing, it seeks to understand what drawn responses can contribute to the contemporary practice of drawing in ‘the expanded field’.
During these filmic moments the garments are in motion, not clearly visible, and removed from the possibility of being touched directly. By examining 1950s-60s film via digital modes this research questions a set of presumed correspondences between drawing and analogue film, especially where these relate to movement, sight and tactility.
Employing an emergent methodology, and in reflective dialogue with the practices of contemporary and historical artists and theorists on drawing, multiple viewpoints are adopted to open out interpretations of the excerpts. In contributing different facets to the theorisation of the interplay between viewing film and the practice of drawing, each chapter offers new propositions for the following: drawing digitised filmic motion; discussing the positionality of the research from a female body; proffering the notion that a sense of touch is provoked through viewing drawings of the unclear image. The final chapter aims to ‘focus on the blur’ as the garments become less distinct with repeated viewing and their construal becomes progressively more diffuse through further drawing episodes until the experience of drawing becomes more physical than observational.
The research concludes by arguing that the practice of drawing the blurred garments in motion, because of their elusive qualities, necessarily moves between iterations and refuses distinctions between digital and analogue, virtual and physical. The drawings produced also oscillate between definitions, causing sensation in the viewer: an emergent embodied affect that eschews the sequential interpretation associated with the consecutive frames of analogue film. Ultimately the study determines that to keep the movement of its subject alive, drawing is released from the requirement to produce a singular, clear visual representation. Primarily, this work seeks to further extend the scope of drawing and to generate new ways of understanding drawing practice and research
The Burden of the Screen: Virtual presence and death during Covid-19
Get PDFIn the isolation of pandemic lockdowns, photography was a lifeline of connection, but for many families, it carried a greater burden. Separated at their darkest moments, relying on screens for connection as never before, loss became mediated suddenly by photography in a completely new way. There was no choice but to say goodbye to dying loved ones, isolated in care homes and hospital wards, through Zoom and Facetime, technologies created by digital media corporations and developed for the purposes of business conferencing and ‘chat’. What does it mean to say goodbye in this way? To share final words, final gazes and the last moments of a life – and then to undertake the work of mourning – through a screen? This chapter considers the ways in which the pandemic has taken established thought regarding not only death and photography, but also cyberspace and the digital image, and turned it on it head
Order and Cleanliness: Singapore’s Public Bathhouses of the 1880s
Get PDFThe article discusses the involvement of the colonial Municipal Commissioners of Singapore in the management of public washing in urban and rural areas of 19th century Singapore. This included regulations regarding public decency, the classification of natural bathing areas, and the creation of bathing enclosures. By the 1880s, under the Municipal Engineer Thomas Cargill, this programme resulted in the creation of three public bathhouses, at Ellenborough Market, Canton Street and Clyde Terrace. By the late 1890s, as Singapore's water supply was changing, the bathhouses were removed. These buildings provide an interesting insight into a moment of transition in colonial Singapore's urban water infrastructures