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Introduction
Get PDFWhat are productive illustrative strategies to unearth, activate and reposition our relationship to the past? What kind of competence can illustrators bring to the task of reconstructing forgotten or otherwise absent histories? Should we even be “colouring in” the past, or might other kinds of gestures yield more nuanced results?
This third issue of Colouring In is the result of an extraordinarily rich and engaging symposium that took place on 9 December 2022 at the University of the Arts London. We are delighted to hereby publish our speakers’ compelling contributions, including invocations of iIllustration as a conjuring act, reflections on the benefits of presentism, explorations of illustrative methods for articulating non-linear time, and thoughts on grappling with illustration’s own histories of representation. Our most extensive issue to date, it seems that the past will not let us rest..
Sustainable Death? Promoting Adoption of Green Passing
Get PDFDeath practices are a highly individual and sensitive, but also strongly social and socially regulated issue. Passing rituals and types of burials have developed over centuries, and their significant environmental cost is rarely discussed. In this paper, we propose an intervention that aims to open up the conversation about green passing practices and help reduce the environmental impact of current death practices in the United Kingdom. We used the multilayered installation design approach, leveraging activity theory and installation theory to identify relevant stakeholders and entry points for intervention. We then developed a holistic intervention strategy subsumed under the green passer Initiative, which proposes intervention into burial practices at the physical, social, and embodied level. We illustrate the intervention strategy with three ideal-type journeys of future green passers and outline relevant implications for policy makers, researchers, and the general public
A Designer’s Perspective on a Creative Era in Knitwear Design: British Fashion Knitwear 1970–1990
Get PDFThe image of knitting has waxed and waned throughout its history across the UK, being historically associated with women’s domestic work. Nevertheless, hand knitting has demonstrated periods of great creativity and fashionability since the mid-nineteenth century. The twentieth century saw knitting move from the utility of wartime comforts for the troops, to high fashion in the 1920s and 1930s and again in the 1950s, but by the late 1960s hand-knitted clothes were seen as utilitarian and staid. However, from the early 1970s, a new wave of British designer/makers rediscovered the creative potential of knitting; traditional techniques were reinterpreted with color and pattern in a true renaissance of the art. This significant craft-led British design movement repositioned knitwear as fashion, and a new genre “designer knitwear” was born, named a “Knitwear Revolution” by fashion writer Suzy Menkes. This hand-made, textural, colorful, fun knitwear became highly popular “statement” fashion. This article makes an original contribution to fashion and knitwear history by examining this under-researched period, including through personal testimony of the author. It provides new insights into creative approaches to knitwear design and business practices exemplified by British designer fashion knitwear of the 1970s and 1980s and identifies the lasting influence of these small design-led businesses.
The article was invited for a special issue on Creativity in Knitted Textiles
THD_Senus
No full textResearch, design, production & engineering of a five font family of a typeface. Weights include, Roman, Bold, Curve Roman, Curve Bold & Roman Shaded. The typeface has been accepted by the Monotype forum 'Myfonts' & is published on that platform
Don't Play with that Girl
No full textI will be reading from my essay 'Don't Play with that Girl' and be in conversation with writers Lauren Elkin, Xiaolu Guo, Therese Henningsen to discuss the art, philosophy and politics of encounter, on the page and screen.
"'I am sure, now, that we learn even more about ourselves when we go out into the world than in the introspection of the private diary.' (Annie Ernaux in Journal de Dehors)
Strangers Within (Prototype, 2022) is an anthology exploring the idea of documentary as encounter through essays, stories, interviews and other creative responses by filmmakers, artists and writers.
For this event we have invited Xiaolu Guo, Andrea Luka Zimmerman, Lauren Elkin and the book's co-editor Therese Henningsen, to reflect on the themes of the anthology in relation to their own work. Taking a cue from Nobel prize winning author Annie Ernaux’s diaristic encounters, they will discuss ways in which writers and filmmakers ‘document’ and record other people’s lives.
Body positivity, #MeToo, digital innovations, and COVID-19: Fashion models’ experiences of and perspectives on an industry in flux
No full textHow to Perform a Truth?
Get PDFCreated by artist Walid Raad, The Atlas Group (1989–2004) is an imaginary organization and archive of fabricated documents concerning Lebanon’s recent history and, specifically, the Lebanese Civil Wars. Attributed to a motley cast of fictional characters, the documents in The Atlas Group archive manipulate real records, either drawn from Raad’s personal collection (street photography, family albums) or public sources, especially newspaper archives. Bearing lengthy, poetic, and often cryptic titles, they are introduced through whimsical stories that we can read in extended captions in installations or on the foundation’s website, and listen to in scholarly-like “lecture-performances.” These “lecture-performances” tell us something about how we might tell a truth, how we might perform it, and how we might teach it
Challenging perceptions of fast and slow in contemporary fashion: A review of the paper dresses trend in the United Kingdom and the United States during the 1960s
Get PDFWriting in 2022 we are at a global crisis point, as our use of the planet’s finite resources outstrips supply. Our current lifestyles continue to perpetuate this problem by encouraging excessive and wasteful models of consumption. One of the most detrimental industries for this is the clothing industry. Our fashion cycle is now programmed to be ‘ultra-fast’, encouraging excessive consumption of garments causing myriad environmental issues. This article argues that there are developing models of both manufacture and consumption, which can satiate this need for ‘fast’ fashion whilst being part of the wider sustainable fashion conversation. Rather than understanding the short-term life cycle of clothing as inherently unsustainable, this can be reframed as matching a garment’s use phase to the longevity of the material it is made from. This article uses a material culture approach to explore original 1960s paper garments, alongside a critical analysis of the sustainability of their manufacture and disposal from a green chemical perspective. Using the combined knowledge and experience of its authors, from historians and sustainable fashion designers to green chemists and biochemical engineers, this article demonstrates how such garments could inspire new models of sustainable fashion production and consumption. We argue that the current paradigm of slow fashion as the only antidote to fast fashion must be challenged. Instead, the fashion and textile sector must consider a range of solutions to the environmental burden of fast fashion that are human-centred and sympathetic to all consumer demographics and needs
Computing Short Films using Language-guided Diffusion and Vocoding through Virtual Timelines of Summaries
Get PDFLanguage-guided generative models are increasingly used in audiovisual production. Image diffusion allows for the development of video sequences and some of its coordination can be established by text prompts. This research automates a video production pipeline leveraging CLIP-guidance with longform text inputs and a separate text-to-speech system. We introduce a method for producing frame-accurate video and audio summaries using a virtual timeline and document a set of video outputs with diverging parameters. Our approach was applied in the production of the film Irreplaceable Biography and contributes to a future where multimodal generative architectures are set as underlying mechanisms to establish visual sequences in time. We contribute to a practice where language modelling is part of a shared and learned representation which can support professional video production, specifically used as a vehicle throughout the composition process as potential videography in physical space
A double-layer iterative analytical model for mesh stiffness and load distribution of early-stage cracked gear based on the slicing method
Get PDFTo reveal the coupling relationship between the time-varying mesh stiffness (TVMS) and the load distribution along the tooth width direction (TWD) of gears with early-stage crack (ESC), a double-layer iterative analytical model for the TVMS and load distributions of gears is proposed considering the effects of the non-uniformly distributed load (NDL) along TWD caused by the ESC. In the proposed model, an analytical model of tooth torsional deformation and a parallel slice stiffness model of the tooth pair with ESC are separately developed based on the slicing method. On this basis, a double-layer iterative calculation method for the TVMS and load distributions is proposed, in which the coupling relationships between the slice stiffness and load distribution along TWD as well as the TVMS and load distribution between the meshing tooth pairs are respectively presented with the inner- and outer- layer iterations. Finite element (FE) models are established to verify the proposed double-layer iterative model. The effects of crack parameters and applied torque on the tooth torsional deformation, TVMS, and load distributions of the gear with ESC are finally investigated based on the proposed model. The results show that the proposed model can realize the accurate and fast decoupling calculation of the TVMS and load distributions of gears with ESC. This study can provide a basis for the establishment of the refined ESC fault diagnosis method and the rapid evaluation of the load distributions of gears with asymmetric errors or faults along TWD