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“We all have a blind impulse to watch over our body”: Can dress facilitate mental time travel to the personal past and imagined future?
This paper explores the relationship between dress (clothing, accessories) and self. Study 1 suggested that clothing may elicit the retrieval of memories whose characteristics are correlated with psychological well-being. Study 2 revealed that luxury fashion self-gifting at the beginning of the pandemic helped project the self into a pandemic-free future
Punk Pedagogies in Practice: Disruptions & Connections
Francis Stewart & Laura Way (eds.) – Punk Pedagogies in Practice: Disruptions & Connections
Global Punk book series, published by Intellect Books, Bristol and The University of Chicago Press, in conjunction with the Punk Scholars Network, May 2023. ISBN 978-1-78938-706-3
Designed by Russ Bestle
Public relations in a post-truth world
Book chapter on post-truth and public relations in 'Theorizing the discipline' section of the 2023 book, The Routledge Companion to Public Relations, edited by Donnalyn Pompper, Katie Price and Kay Weaver
Mold and Milieu / 곰팡이와 환경
Essay on the recent work of Jeehee Park 'Drawing Elliptical Orbit' (2021–ongoing)
Making for Our Time: A journey told through the dress as catalyst for change
This chapter, based on an in-depth interview and ongoing dialogue, recounts the extraordinary journey of designer, artist, researcher and activist Helen Storey through her role as Professor of Fashion and Science at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. This is a story narrated in dresses, not simply embodied as clothing, but over time becoming an increasingly powerful symbol and metaphor for some of the most complex challenges of our time. This work, covering an extended period and several innovative projects, culminated in a unique position being created for Helen within Zaatari Refugee Camp in Jordan, working in a research and knowledge exchange capacity with the residents and NGOs, to co-create and develop life-improving projects
70 x 7 The Meal Act XVL
‘70 x 7 The Meal Act XVL’ was a key exhibition within Harewood House's 2023 programme for the Leeds 2023 Year of Culture. The project underlined Harewood’s reputation for ambitious programming by bringing internationally renowned artists to audiences across Leeds and demonstrates how contemporary art could be embedded within accessible and community-led programming such as the ‘Harewood Garden Party’.
‘70 x 7 The Meal Act XVL’ built upon the community workshops devised by Lucy Orta during an initial R&D phase lasting 12-months, which generated mostly qualitative data and creative outputs from community members, including food-related manifestos, text and drawings which contributed to visual language of the event. The final installation in the grounds of Harewood House on 8 July 2023, brought together over 200 people for a large-scale public meal attended by communities engaged with environmental and social issues and interested in the politics of food.
‘70 x 7 The Meal’ is a long-term initiated by Lucy + Jorge Orta (2000-ongoing), which utilises 70 x 7 as a metaphor for uniting communities through the ritual of dining. The symbol, signifying ad infinitum functions as a networking device, with each new instance – Act – creating a chain reaction of shared experiences and connections that extend beyond the meal event. 70 x 7 The Meal’ installations have previously been presented in cities including Milan, Singapore, Paris and Philadelphia.
For this 45th Act, community engagement across Leeds responded to Lucy Orta’s ‘Seed Manifesto’, which drew on the metaphor of cultivation, growth and life cycles. Seed dispersal was the central motif of the newly commissioned Royal Limoges Porcelain dining plates (ed. 200), and the 50m table runner printed with images and text collected from the community engagement sessions. The plates and table runner were commissioned specifically for the meal and used during the event to prompt conversations amongst the guests.
Additionally, art students from the University of Leeds co-designed the napkins providing a professional development opportunity for young creatives, within the wider cultural economy of the city. The menu was designed and prepared by students from Leeds City College contributing a valuable professional development opportunity to the college who are training people to contribute to the future culinary economy of Leeds.
70 x 7 The Meal reflects Harewood’s commitment to embedding themes of environmental responsibility and care for nature and community within their programme. The participatory artwork also helps propagate a collective understanding of the role that food can play in breaking down societal barriers and facilitating conversations around heritage across generations and diverse communities. The project uplifts Leeds as a healthy and progressive city, by highlighting issues of food security and climate change, while encouraging a wider range of communities within Leeds to discuss and imagine collective solutions. The project engaged individuals and communities from allotment societies, growers, campaigners, horticulturalists, and academics engaged with the environmental and social aspects of food.
The meal culminated in the exhibition ‘Seeds’, a solo exhibition of the work of Lucy + Jorge Orta in Harewood House.
The impact of the project has been to initiate long-term relationships with food-related communities across Leeds
A Tall Order! Rochdale Art Gallery in the 1980s!
In the 1980s, Touchstones was known as Rochdale Art Gallery. Its daring and innovative approach to exhibition and education programming positioned it on the national map.
Led by Exhibition Officer, Jill Morgan, the focus on exhibiting artists engaged in critical and socio-political practice gave a platform to those who were not being offered the opportunity to show their work in other high profile institutions.
A Tall Order! is an invigorating look at the artwork made and exhibited here during the 1980s by a generation of artists, many of whom were women, young, working class and Black.
Featuring key works from this time and demonstrating how this period influenced many artists, the show will include loans from both public and private collections brought together from around the UK. Alongside selected works from Rochdale’s own collection, the exhibition will also present a series of three new and exciting commissions by contemporary artists, Lubna Chowdhary, Sarah Joy Ford and Jade Montserrat.
The show will be accompanied by a creative learning programme that will support local artists and see a wide range of free events, workshops and self-guided activities available to our audiences.
Generously supported by a grant from the Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art, and Arts Council England and Friends of Rochdale Art Gallery funding, A Tall Order! is curated by independent research curators Dr Derek Horton and Dr Alice Correia.
Tulsi, the Goddess of King’s Cross, 2022
Raksha Patel (b.1972)
Oil on canvas
Collection of Central St Martins Museum & Study Collection
In 2021, painter Raksha Patel was commissioned to create a new work of art in response to the historic botanical prints held in the collection of Central Saint Martins art college, London. Tulsi, the Goddess of Kinds Cross was painted in early 2022, and presents a tulsi – or Holy Basil plant. In Hinduism, the tulsi plant is a manifestation of Lakshmi, Goddess of fortune, power, fertility and prosperity. In her plant form Lakshmi symbolises virtue and purity. Patel’s painting presents the tulsi plant overlooking the landscape around King’s Cross train station in London. This is an area of intense urban gentrification, but which has a long-standing Bengali community. The painting poses questions about the past and future, place and belonging
The Woman in the Garden: Representations of Femininity and Domestic Gardens in Nineteenth Century Writing and Twentieth Century Film
This thesis will examine the ways in which the garden acts as a space where dominant representational accounts of femininity are both reflected and subverted by critically analysing a range of texts which situate women in the garden. These will include the horticultural publications of Jane Wells Webb Loudon, the novels Elizabeth and her German Garden (1898) and The Solitary Summer (1899) by Elizabeth Von Arnim and the films The Assam Garden (1985, dir. Mary McMurray) and The Draughtsman’s Contract (1985, dir. Peter Greenaway). Each text (re)presents a woman, or women, in the garden, a space conventionally regarded as one of constraint and enclosure, contributing to notions of female passivity and restraint. I aim to demonstrate that, rather than a being a conservative space, the garden is able to encompass a range of representational ambiguities/ contradictions.
Using a methodology informed by, but not limited to, feminism, this thesis takes a multi-disciplinary approach, engaging with fields as diverse as art and garden history, social history, horticulture and cultural and historical studies and sets out to contribute to analyses of representation, explored through notions of gender by using the garden as a starting point for investigation. My thesis will be informed by a feminist methodology, in particular the approach of feminist geographers who have addressed the subject of gardens and garden histories from a female perspective. The texts selected embody, implicitly or explicitly, an engagement with dominant ideas about the role of women. Each work will be read in historically and culturally specific contexts framed by the issues and concerns of the period and explored for the ways in which notions of femininity are both reproduced and destabilized in the garden. Textual analysis will form the basis of the primary research, while secondary sources will be used to provide contextual detail. A thematic engagement with notions of space, agency, and identity underpin this work.
A large body of literature has considered the history and meaning of the garden, its design and, more recently, the space of the garden itself. Although ideas of representation have been a central feature of academic study in cultural, media and feminist studies, little scholarship has been dedicated to the ways in which femininity has been represented in the garden. This thesis will contribute to debates about femininity, drawing attention to the garden as a space for the construction of meaning and suggests that the garden, both physically and conceptually, embraces competing and contradictory discourses.
The chapter on Jane Loudon focusses on her horticultural writing and specifically on the ways in which it represents women as actively engaging with the work of gardening, offering its nineteenth century female readers an alternative view of feminine propriety. My reading of von Arnim’s work develops themes outlined in the previous chapter and suggests that Elizabeth too was an active gardener. In this chapter I foreground notions of enclosure and retreat for the female gardener and draw attention to the meaning of space for the late nineteenth century, early twentieth century definitions of femininity.
My discussion of The Draughtsman’s Contract, proposes a totally different reading, focussing on the language of horticulture and its use in enshrining particular qualities associated with the feminine and the ways in which representations of the feminine are aligned with ideas of nature and the land. Key here are notions of prospect and view, nature and the land. My exploration of The Assam Garden extends the discussions of space developed by feminist cultural geographers and examines how two women restore a garden and forge a friendship which crosses class and ethnic boundaries, against a background of possession and prevailing definitions of what it means to be feminine
Cyber Fight
A Part of the CyberKids R&D project. Output: playscript and live performance to explore methods of developing educational theatre productions and participatory experiences for young people around themes of cyber security and online safety. Developed with the University of Kent's Institute of Cyber Security for Society and School of Arts
Cradle to Cradle
Long Life, Low Energy: Designing for a Circular Economy explores the impact of a looped system of architectural design. Curated by Pete Collard at the RIBA’s small gallery the show has been divided into three sections: “demolition,” “retrofit” and “circular economy” in a clear and approachable manner