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    The Posthuman and Thierry Mugler's Cyborg Femininity

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    Over the course of his career, designer Thierry Mugler envisioned the evolution of the feminine form through a fusion of material garments and immaterial gestures, and organic and inorganic beings. Through a discussion of a selection of his runway shows, notably Spring/Summer 1989, Autumn/Winter 1989, Spring/Summer 1992 and Autumn/Winter 1995, this article considers how Mugler fashioned posthuman dressed femininity, distorting contemporary codes of Western womenswear. Discussion of Mugler’s incorporation of animal traits and machine technologies into fashion design are framed by the contemporaneous cyborg theory of Donna Haraway. This article argues that Mugler cohered a futuristic vision of femininity through holistic application of choreography and innovative design

    The Fordian Slip

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    From the roads of the Roman empire to the paper proposals for Google’s Sidewalk labs, from screw gauges to time zones, from urban plans to computational protocols, the genealogy of platforms is replete with grand and mundane schemes. Whether digital or physical, hardware or software, platforms are a general systems type—a standardized foundation, architecture, or arena upon and through which other things are planned and programmed. Platforms perform in similar ways. They combine rigid protocols with flexible adaptation; they consolidate and distribute power; they coordinate supply and demand; they leverage surplus via network effects; they perpetuate early plans while staging the potential for ongoing emergence. Platform systems are also prone to particular pathologies—malfunctions and errors including path dependence, lock-in, and rigid distributions of risk. The case of Fordlandia, the Ford Motor Company’s failed rubber plantation in the Brazilian Amazon, presents one such platform pathology—the slip—which describes the proclivity/propensity of platforms to slide out of sync with the worlds they precipitate. The Fordian slip diagnoses the ways that platforms fail to pivot, demonstrating how peripheral experiments reveal fissures in platform foundations while staging unexpected possibilities as they play out over time

    Voices from the Ground - Part 1: The Mushroom Vortex, Part 2: Fern Vortex & Part 3: The Invisible Vortex

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    Site-Specific Sound Installation/Performance at the Shinano Primitive Sense Art Festival 2024

    Her Name Was Moviola

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    A cinematic love letter to the Moviola film editing machine, led by Academy Award winning editor Walter Murch, detailing how it dominated English-language filmmaking for most of the 20th century. This research project begun at the University of Hertfordshire, involved research into historic sound methods by Mike Wyeld. Invented in 1922, the Moviola remained for a long time the dominant machine for editing film in English-language cinema. Mastering it allowed an editor, in tandem with the director and producer, to create a language and rhythm within a film. Her Name Was Moviola sees Academy Award® -winning sound and film editor Walter Murch working with a team to rebuild a Moviola editing suite to take us through the process of how a film was pieced together. Using two scenes from Mike Leigh’s 2014 drama Mr. Turner – reverse-engineered from digital to 35mm prints – Murch and his collaborators take us through the way the Moviola was employed to bring a multitude on individual shots together into one cohesive narrative. It’s a riveting deep-dive into a process that is key to every form of filmmaking

    Impact of Virtual Exchange on teachers’ and student teachers’ sense of isolation

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    Professional isolation caused by lack of networking and collaboration opportunities with other colleagues and experts is regarded as one of the main challenges to sustaining teachers’ motivation and enriching their professional experience (Echazarra & Radinger, 2019; OECD, 2016). One of the aims of the VALIANT project was to identify whether Virtual Innovation and Support Networks as an approach would contribute to overcoming teachers’ and student teachers’ sense of isolation and low motivation in rural areas and other isolated contexts while promoting teachers’ and student teachers’ effectiveness in online international networks of professional collaboration. Drawing from data gathered from the 24 Virtual Exchanges (VEs) carried out in the VALIANT project, this chapter will present the coding framework, results of the quantitative and qualitative data analysis, and key findings regarding the impact of VE on teachers’ and student teachers’ self- perceived sense of isolation

    Biodegradation behavior of wool and other textile fibers in aerobic composting conditions

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    Pollution of the environment by microscopic fragments of plastic is a growing environmental concern. A category of this pollution is fiber fragments from textiles, a source of which is believed to be fibers released by clothing made of synthetic fibers during laundering. These fragments could enter the environment at the end of the textile’s useful life if it is not re-used or recycled. Disposal of biodegradable fibers could be achieved by industrial composting, but natural fibers are sometimes modified during manufacturing in ways that might influence biodegradation. The composting behavior of fabrics made with unmodified and chemically modified wool fibers (chlorine-Hercosett treated), regenerated cellulose, and several synthetic fibers was compared in industrial composting conditions according to an established standard test method. The fabrics were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, energy dispersive X-ray and electron microscopy. The regenerated cellulose (viscose rayon) biodegraded to the greatest extent in the test, and both types of wool also biodegraded readily. All three synthetic fibers had no biodegradation. The machine-washable wool biodegraded more rapidly than unmodified wool and analysis of residues at the conclusion of the test indicated that it did not generate non-degradable fiber fragments. The epicuticle of unmodified wool is covered with a hydrophobic layer, which may resist microbial attack, but with time this slowly degraded. Conversely, the machine-washable wool is hydrophilic and therefore was easier for microbes to attack. If not re-used, commercial, machine-washable wool textiles can be readily disposed of in industrial composting conditions

    How do you become a Scholarly Communications Assistant? What even is that?!

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    This workshop is part of the cpd25 Aspects programme, aimed at library staff looking to acquire additional skills and knowledge or staff working towards Chartership. This event will look at different aspects of roles dedicated to supporting research at all stages from entry level to senior manager level. This aims to demystify an area of library provision which can appear mysterious as we are often very focused on supporting our undergraduate students. At this event, we will hear from professionals involved in open access, scholarly communication, research support, research data management etc. This will be of interest to anyone working in any role in a library who would like to investigate possible areas for new career development

    10XTYPES Vol.3

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    Typeface archive book featuring ten typefaces design by Tim Hutchinson. Each typeface is displayed as a full specimen throughout the book plus some experimental & live application of selected typefaces at the end of the publication

    The use of data analytics to support the development of assessment practices in higher education

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    The ways institutions are using assessment and feedback are rapidly evolving. In this application chapter we will reflect on three innovative applications of learning analytics to support assessment and feedback practices at two distinct universities, namely Maastricht University in the Netherlands and The Open University UK. We have specifically chosen these two universities as they provide innovative education to their students in unique ways. In our first application we explore how computer based assessments in conjunction with dispositional learning analytics can help educators to provide appropriate feedback. In our second application we explore why it is important to include learning design metrics in learning analytics applications. Finally, in our third application we illustrate how using assessment data and learning analytics some unique and perhaps unexpected results can be identified in terms of assessment alignment across modules

    Complex Design Collaborations Research Group: Carnival at the Boundaries, Exploring Complexity in Design Collaborations

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    Carnival at the Boundaries is the inaugural event of the CDCRG convened by Dr Niki Wallace and Dr Rosie Hornbuckle. The event aimed to scope the theme of the group within and across UAL to uncover how researchers are experiencing and navigating complexity through collaboration in their research. The title ‘Carnival at the boundaries’ is inspired by the work of literary critique and philosopher Mikail Bakhtin, whose concept, carnivalesque, parodies what design distinctively does at the boundary with other knowledges. At the carnival we embrace a new order; norms and societal rules are subverted, and we talk openly

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