57 research outputs found

    Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

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    Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production

    Metabolic Basis and Clinical Evidence for Skin Lightening Effects of Thiol Compounds

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    Melanin pigment is a major factor in determining the color of the skin, and its abnormal increase or decrease can cause serious pigmentation disorders. The melanin pigment of the skin is divided into light pheomelanin and dark eumelanin, and a big difference between them is whether they contain sulfur. Melanin synthesis starts from a common reaction in which tyrosine or dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) is oxidized by tyrosinase (TYR) to produce dopaquinone (DQ). DQ is spontaneously converted to leukodopachrome and then oxidized to dopachrome, which enters the eumelanin synthesis pathway. When DQ reacts with cysteine, cysteinyl dopa is generated, which is oxidized to cysteinyl DQ and enters the pheomelanin synthesis pathway. Therefore, thiol compounds can influence the relative synthesis of eumelanin and pheomelanin. In addition, thiol compounds can inhibit enzymatic activity by binding to copper ions at the active site of TYR, and act as an antioxidant scavenging reactive oxygen species and free radicals or as a modulator of redox balance, thereby inhibiting overall melanin synthesis. This review will cover the metabolic aspects of thiol compounds, the role of thiol compounds in melanin synthesis, comparison of the antimelanogenic effects of various thiol compounds, and clinical trials on the skin lightening efficacy of thiol compounds. We hope that this review will help identify the advantages and disadvantages of various thiol compounds as modulators of skin pigmentation and contribute to the development of safer and more effective strategies for the treatment of pigmentation disorders

    Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

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    Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products

    Up- or Downregulation of Melanin Synthesis Using Amino Acids, Peptides, and Their Analogs

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    Harmonious synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin contribute to the expression of beauty and the maintenance of health. When skin pigmentary disorders occur because of internal or external factors or, when there is a need to artificially increase or reduce the pigmentation level of the skin for aesthetic or therapeutic purposes, various pharmacological therapies are applied but the results are not always satisfactory. Studies have been conducted to improve the efficacy and safety of these treatment strategies. In this review, we present the latest studies regarding peptides and related compounds that may be useful in artificially increasing or reducing skin melanin levels. Certain analogs of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and oligopeptides with the sequences derived from the hormone were shown to promote melanin synthesis in cells and in vivo models. Various amino acids, peptides, their analogs, and their hybrid compounds with other chemical moieties were shown to inhibit tyrosinase (TYR) catalytic activity or downregulate TYR gene expression. Certain peptides were shown to inhibit melanosome biogenesis or induce autophagy, leading to decreased pigmentation. In vivo and clinical evidence are available for some compounds, including [Nle4-D-Phe7]-α-MSH, glutathione disulfide, and glycinamide hydrochloride. For many other compounds, additional studies are required to verify their efficacy and safety in vivo and in clinical trials. The accumulating information regarding pro- and antimelanogenic activity of peptides and related compounds will lead to the development of novel drugs for the treatment of skin pigmentary disorders

    Emerging Strategies to Protect the Skin from Ultraviolet Rays Using Plant-Derived Materials

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    Sunlight contains a significant amount of ultraviolet (UV) ray, which leads to various effects on homeostasis in the body. Defense strategies to protect from UV rays have been extensively studied, as sunburn, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis are caused by excessive UV exposure. The primary lines of defense against UV damage are melanin and trans-urocanic acid, which are distributed in the stratum corneum. UV rays that pass beyond these lines of defense can lead to oxidative damage. However, cells detect changes due to UV rays as early as possible and initiate cell signaling processes to prevent the occurrence of damage and repair the already occurred damage. Cosmetic and dermatology experts recommend using a sunscreen product to prevent UV-induced damage. A variety of strategies using antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents have also been developed to complement the skin’s defenses against UV rays. Researchers have examined the use of plant-derived materials to alleviate the occurrence of skin aging, diseases, and cancer caused by UV rays. Furthermore, studies are also underway to determine how to promote melanin production to protect from UV-induced skin damage. This review provides discussion of the damage that occurs in the skin due to UV light and describes potential defense strategies using plant-derived materials. This review aims to assist researchers in understanding the current research in this area and to potentially plan future studies

    Insights into How Plant-Derived Extracts and Compounds Can Help in the Prevention and Treatment of Keloid Disease: Established and Emerging Therapeutic Targets

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    Keloid is a disease in which fibroblasts abnormally proliferate and synthesize excessive amounts of extracellular matrix, including collagen and fibronectin, during the healing process of skin wounds, causing larger scars that exceed the boundaries of the original wound. Currently, surgical excision, cryotherapy, radiation, laser treatment, photodynamic therapy, pressure therapy, silicone gel sheeting, and pharmacotherapy are used alone or in combinations to treat this disease, but the outcomes are usually unsatisfactory. The purpose of this review is to examine whether natural products can help treat keloid disease. I introduce well-established therapeutic targets for this disease and various other emerging therapeutic targets that have been proposed based on the phenotypic difference between keloid-derived fibroblasts (KFs) and normal epidermal fibroblasts (NFs). We then present recent studies on the biological effects of various plant-derived extracts and compounds on KFs and NFs. Associated ex vivo, in vivo, and clinical studies are also presented. Finally, we discuss the mechanisms of action of the plant-derived extracts and compounds, the pros and cons, and the future tasks for natural product-based therapy for keloid disease, as compared with existing other therapies. Extracts of Astragalus membranaceus, Salvia miltiorrhiza, Aneilema keisak, Galla Chinensis, Lycium chinense, Physalis angulate, Allium sepa, and Camellia sinensis appear to modulate cell proliferation, migration, and/or extracellular matrix (ECM) production in KFs, supporting their therapeutic potential. Various phenolic compounds, terpenoids, alkaloids, and other plant-derived compounds could modulate different cell signaling pathways associated with the pathogenesis of keloids. For now, many studies are limited to in vitro experiments; additional research and development are needed to proceed to clinical trials. Many emerging therapeutic targets could accelerate the discovery of plant-derived substances for the prevention and treatment of keloid disease. I hope that this review will bridge past, present, and future research on this subject and provide insight into new therapeutic targets and pharmaceuticals, aiming for effective keloid treatment

    Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications

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    Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics

    Therapeutic Potential and Mechanisms of Rosmarinic Acid and the Extracts of Lamiaceae Plants for the Treatment of Fibrosis of Various Organs

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    Fibrosis, which causes structural hardening and functional degeneration in various organs, is characterized by the excessive production and accumulation of connective tissue containing collagen, alpha-smooth muscle actin (α-SMA), etc. In traditional medicine, extracts of medicinal plants or herbal prescriptions have been used to treat various fibrotic diseases. The purpose of this narrative review is to discuss the antifibrotic effects of rosmarinic acid (RA) and plant extracts that contain RA, as observed in various experimental models. RA, as well as the extracts of Glechoma hederacea, Melissa officinalis, Elsholtzia ciliata, Lycopus lucidus, Ocimum basilicum, Prunella vulgaris, Salvia rosmarinus (Rosmarinus officinalis), Salvia miltiorrhiza, and Perilla frutescens, have been shown to attenuate fibrosis of the liver, kidneys, heart, lungs, and abdomen in experimental animal models. Their antifibrotic effects were associated with the attenuation of oxidative stress, inflammation, cell activation, epithelial–mesenchymal transition, and fibrogenic gene expression. RA treatment activated peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor gamma (PPARγ), 5′ AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK), and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) while suppressing the transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β) and Wnt signaling pathways. Interestingly, most plants that are reported to contain RA and exhibit antifibrotic activity belong to the family Lamiaceae. This suggests that RA is an active ingredient for the antifibrotic effect of Lamiaceae plants and that these plants are a useful source of RA. In conclusion, accumulating scientific evidence supports the effectiveness of RA and Lamiaceae plant extracts in alleviating fibrosis and maintaining the structural architecture and normal functions of various organs under pathological conditions

    Restoring Glutathione Homeostasis in Glycation-Related Eye Diseases: Mechanistic Insights and Therapeutic Interventions Beyond VEGF Inhibition

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    Advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) and oxidative stress are recognized as central contributors to the pathogenesis of age-related or diabetic cataracts, diabetic retinopathy (DR), and age-related macular degeneration (AMD). These glycation-related diseases are characterized by impaired redox balance and decreased glutathione (GSH) levels. This review aims to examine the mechanistic links between AGEs and GSH depletion across ocular tissues by integrating in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo, and clinical studies relevant to this topic. The multiple levels of evidence highlight GSH homeostasis as both a biomarker and therapeutic target in glycation-related ocular disorders. Therapeutic strategies aimed at restoring GSH homeostasis under glycation stress are categorized into four mechanistic domains: (I) promoting GSH supply and synthesis, (II) enhancing GSH recycling, (III) mitigating glycation stress, and (IV) reducing oxidative and nitrosative stress. Most of these strategies have been explored via different approaches, and experimental findings with various interventions have shown promise in restoring GSH balance and mitigating AGE-induced damage. A pathological link between GSH depletion and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) overexpression is observed in DR and wet AMD. GSH-centered interventions act upstream to modulate redox homeostasis while anti-VEGF therapies target downstream angiogenesis. This study supports the rationale for a dual-targeting strategy that combines redox-based interventions with VEGF inhibition in glycation-related ocular diseases

    Can Plant Phenolic Compounds Protect the Skin from Airborne Particulate Matter?

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    The skin is directly exposed to the polluted atmospheric environment, and skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and acne vulgaris, can be induced or exacerbated by airborne particulate matter (PM). PM can also promote premature skin aging with its accompanying functional and morphological changes. PM-induced skin diseases and premature skin aging are largely mediated by reactive oxygen species (ROS), and the harmful effects of PM may be ameliorated by safe and effective natural antioxidants. Experimental studies have shown that the extracts and phenolic compounds derived from many plants, such as cocoa, green tea, grape, pomegranate, and some marine algae, have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on PM-exposed cells. The phenolic compounds can decrease the levels of ROS in cells and/or enhance cellular antioxidant capacity and, thereby, can attenuate PM-induced oxidative damage to nucleic acids, proteins, and lipids. They also lower the levels of cytokines, chemokines, cell adhesion molecules, prostaglandins, and matrix metalloproteinases implicated in cellular inflammatory responses to PM. Although there is still much research to be done, current studies in this field suggest that plant-derived phenolic compounds may have a protective effect on skin exposed to high levels of air pollution
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