30,732 research outputs found
Fashioning Fabrics: Contemporary Textiles in Fashion
No full textFashioning Fabrics is a visually led thematic exposition of the importance of fabric innovation in influencing the direction of contemporary fashion design. Fashion books tend to focus on silhouette, cut, concept and trends, whereas traditional textile books have little focus on fashion. Previous publications Extreme Textiles (2005) and Techno Textiles2 (2005) cover applications from aerospace and interiors to medical uses, in addition to fashion. In contrast, Fashioning Fabrics highlights the experimental craft-based approaches which mark out a hybrid territory, bridging fashion and textiles. It addresses the inter-dependence of textiles and fashion, making a new intervention in the literature, from a textile design perspective.
As editor, I shaped the content into four key areas: Embellished, Sculpted, Constructed and Imprinted, covering a range of key fabrications. From my personal knowledge, and new fieldwork including designer interviews, I selected a mix of established and emerging designers for each section. The selection and editing of the visuals was a key contribution to the entire work. Close-up details and work-in-progress images reveal the links between concept, processes and techniques of textile development for fashion, beyond the catwalk image, to create a new visual narrative. This imagery, in conjunction with analytical profiles of the designers’ methods and motivation, conveyed signature elements of their textiles work in context.
My introductory chapter ‘The hidden art of fashion’ discusses the historical development and role of the textile designer, and the hidden aspects of collaborative working within fashion. It contextualises contemporary work within a historical framework of 19th and 20th century Europe, from the development of schools of art and design, early couturiers, the Utility scheme’s ‘good design’ and the post-war surge in new fashion, to the current rejection of mass production for customisation and individuation. This chapter was illustrated with images from my personal collection of fashion textiles
Sandy Cairncross, Maggie Black and Girish Menon - 28 Mar 2008
No full textIn this edition of Audio News, presented by Peter Goodwin, Sandy Cairncross, Maggie Black (Earthscan), and Girish Menon (Water Aid) talk about:
The Last Taboo: Opening The Door On The Global Sanitation Crisis
a book by Maggie Black and Ben Fawcett, published by Earthscan with UNICEF.
A massive improvement in health and wealth in developing countries could be achieved by providing systems to dispose of human excreta safely. A new book: "The Last Taboo" was launched at the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine by the Professor of Environmental Health, Sandy Cairncross
Designer Hussein Chalayan in Conversation with Sandy Black
No full textPart artist, part sculptor, part showman, and part fashion designer, Hussein Chalayan has made the fashion performance his consummate medium of expression. Chalayan’s influential work in fashion, since his debut in 1993, has been the subject of innumerable profiles and interpretations and in 2004 a retrospective exhibition marking ten years was staged at the Gröninger Museum in The Netherlands. Five years on, From Fashion and Back, his first solo exhibition in the UK has been presented in London at the Design Museum (see review in this issue). Chalayan is an innovator and an intellectual, pioneering approaches to fashion that draw on areas such as anthropology, science, and technology, and the personal philosophy which informs his own beliefs and identity. Through his fashion show presentations, installations, and film collaborations Chalayan has created memorable spectacles that often comment on the human situation and political circumstances of our times, particularly in relation to his own Turkish-Cypriot ethnicity. Through precise and visionary choreography of an impressive range of collaborators and technical experts, Chalayan expresses concepts often rooted in displacement, trans-migration, and transformation, making personal, cultural, and socio-political statements in addition to creating beautiful objects and fashion for sale. It is these seminal moments of catwalk performance that have become iconic in contemporary fashion—both visually and intellectually. In Chalayan’s hands, the dress becomes emblematic and layered with meanings, whether or not these are perceived and understood by his audience: the personal concept and design development process are essential for the designer.
Hussein Chalayan was born in Cyprus in 1970, and later studied at Central St Martins College of Art & Design, University of the Arts London, graduating in 1993. His graduate collection, The Tangent Flows, was famously covered in iron filings and buried in the garden for weeks before being shown. Since launching his own label, he has twice been named British Designer of the Year in 1999 and 2000.
Just before the Autumn/Winter 2009 collections (February 13, 2009), Sandy Black spoke to Hussein Chalayan about his own practice, designers’ influence, and the wider issues of sustainability in fashion design and manufacturing.
This journal is edited by
Sandy Black, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK
and
Marilyn DeLong, College of Design, University of Minnesota, US
Classic Knits of the 1980s
No full textWritten by the eponymous designer of Sandy Black Original Knits fashion knitwear label from the late 1970s and 1980s, Classic Knits of the 1980s features original, colourful, textural and fun knitting patterns that capture the fashion zeitgeist of the 1980s designer knitwear boom. As well as selling ready-made knitwear to stores, several designers made their patterns available as home knitting kits. Classic Knits of the 1980s features a range of innovative designs from Sandy Black knitting kits, many published here for the first time. The text comprises two parts: Part 1 establishes the fashion and knitwear context of the period and its influence on the development of the designs, examining the entire creative process from inspiration to final pattern, and describes the principal fundamentals of knitwear design. Copiously illustrated with photographs, diagrams and charts, special features include patchwork (modular) designs and intarsia or colour-block knitting, with techniques for pattern calculations, working from charts and handling several colours. Part 2 then offers twenty-one original patterns and designs, with variations, grouped into themes of textural, graphic, heraldic and ornamental, plus the unique Siamese cat, leopard and tiger accessories
The Sustainable Fashion Handbook
No full textThe definitive sourcebook on all aspects of sustainable fashion – not only the environmental issues presented by fast-moving fashion, but also the social impact of the industry. Packed with authoritative facts and inspiring images and ideas, this is an indispensable reference for
professionals, students and anyone with an interest in fashion, sustainability and innovation.
This title is divided into five thematic chapters covering every aspect of contemporary fashion from fashion cultures (from high street to blogosphere to couture), to the eco-footprint of the resource-hungry and wasteful system, to the fashion business, employer of up to 40 million people worldwide
Impact of biomimetic principles on sustainability in the fashion industry
No full textImagine if clothing of the future would adapt, grow, self repair and change appearance. The relationship between wearer and garment would be that of symbiosis enabled by developments in material science that produce textiles able to imitate functionalities of living organisms rather than just the properties of natural fibres. We can expect clothing of the future to host an array of new properties that may interact or integrate with the body, self maintain, reproduce and self assemble to accommodate changes in our activity and environment. Materials and structures in nature already demonstrate these functions and can indicate ways of transferring the technology into clothing. Biomimetics can operate as a platform to accommodate these future requirements and provide a new perspective in the design and assembly of clothing systems
Accelerating sustainability in fashion, clothing and textiles
No full textThe issue of sustainability is characterised as a ‘wicked problem’ in the fashion, clothing and textiles sector and is now coming into increased focus due to growing consumer, business and policy pressures. This in-depth volume presents a comprehensive overview of the challenges and emerging opportunities faced by the sector, and provides strategic solutions as to how the sector can substantially accelerate sustainability.
This book collates research and industry best practice to provide a ‘one-stop shop’ exploring the complex and interconnected issues surrounding sustainability in fashion, clothing and textiles. The practical and digestible chapters include innovative examples and perspectives from different regions of the globe, addressing topics from policies to supply chain issues and materials innovation. Five unique case studies of sustainable businesses provide detailed examples of pioneering practice. Edited by three professionals with long-standing knowledge and expertise, the book takes a global perspective with examples that illustrate the scale and breadth of topics and regions in the scope of sustainability. This holistic approach brings together both academic and industry perspectives on the critical areas that require immediate action to move towards a more sustainable fashion, clothing and textile sector.
This is an invaluable resource for those working in the industry, policymakers and for those in business or academia with an interest in sustainability in fashion, clothing, textiles and related sectors worldwide. It is also relevant to professionals and students in the areas of sustainability, innovation, supply chains, design and development, consultancy, education and training
Eco-Chic: the Fashion Paradox
No full textIn a comprehensive survey of this highly pertinent subject, leading academic Sandy Black examines the way the fashion industry is changing to accommodate the environmental concerns of the twenty first century. She exposes the naked truth behind the clothes we wear, exploring alternate practices and assessing their feasibility.
Using case studies of designers from the catwalks and the high street, including Katharine Hamnett, Marks and Spencer and Linda Loudermilk, the book illustrates how these processes are finding their way into the industry, and shows how ethical fashion has moved on from its traditional connotations of hemp shirts and rope sandals.
Fashion and environmental awareness are two concerns that do not comfortably sit side by side. Over the past ten years, high street fashion, led by global chains, has become ever more affordable and disposable. The sourcing of materials, the manufacture and the distribution of clothes have become the dirty secrets of the beautiful industry.
2nd edition published March 2011
Sandy Black
No full textSandy Black receives an award for 20 years of service in Student Affairs. (l-r) President William Perry, Sandy Black, Vice President of Student Affairs Dan Nadler.https://thekeep.eiu.edu/years_of_service_2013/1120/thumbnail.jp
Recommended from our members
Fostering sustainable practices: The case of micro and small designer fashion enterprises
No full textIn Chapter 9, Black et al. highlight that the UK designer fashion sector is largely made up of micro and small enterprises (MSEs) and represents a significant part of the UK’s creative industries, widely recognised for its fashion influence beyond the UK. In addition to its cultural and economic distinction, the sector is acknowledged globally for its pioneering sustainability-led practices. This chapter presents findings from the Rethinking Fashion Design Entrepreneurship: Fostering Sustainable Practices project, working with 48 innovative fashion MSEs in the UK. With their strongsense of values and purpose, contributing to community alongside maintaining viability, such MSEs provide best-practice examples of innovation to foster sustainability in fashion. More are gaining the internationally recognised B Corp certification, demonstrating that social justice and environmental stewardship are equally as important as financial success. Values-based fashion design entrepreneurs pursue growth organically to increase their positive social and environmental impact, and develop strong customer relationships through direct communication, transparency and engagement activities, foregrounding sufficiency. Despite the severe effects of Covid-19, the investigation revealed some fashion design entrepreneurs showing exceptional resilience. Such agile, purpose-led enterprises exemplify a redefinition of what fashion business can be, presenting viable pathways to recovery, and building towards a sustainable prosperity that transforms how fashion is done
- …
