1,721,087 research outputs found
Synthetic imagery for the automated detection of rip currents
Full text linkRip currents are a major hazard on beaches worldwide. Although it is in-situ measurements of rips can be made in the field, it is generally safer and more cost effective to employ remote sensing methods, such as coastal video imaging systems. However, there is no universal, fully-automated method capable of detecting rips in imagery. In this paper we discuss the benefits of image manipulation, such as filtering, prior to rip detection attempts. Furthermore, we present a new approach to detect rip channels that utilizes synthetic imagery. The creation of a synthetic image involves zonation of the ‘parent’ image into key areas, such as sand bars, channels, shoreline and offshore. Then, pixels in each zone are replaced with the respective dominant color trends observed in the parent image. Using synthetic imagery increased the accuracy of rip detection from 81% to 92%. Synthetics reduce ‘noise’ inherent in surfzone imagery and is another step towards an automated approach for rip current detection
Rip current observations on a low-sloping dissipative beach
No full textRip currents are the main cause of beach rescues and fatalities. Key drivers of rip current hazard are: (1) fast current speeds; and (2) the exit rate of floating material from inside to outside of the surf zone. Exit rates may vary temporally, such as due to Very Low Frequency (VLF) motions, which have a period on the order of 10 minutes. However, there is little field data to determine the driver(s) of exit rate. Therefore, the aim of this research was to determine rip current circulation patterns, and specifically, determine their relationship to surf zone exits, on a high-energy dissipative beach. Three days of field measurements were undertaken at Ngarunui Beach, New Zealand. Three daily surf zone flow patterns were found: (1) alongshore; (2) surf zone eddy with high exit rate; and (3) surf zone eddy with no exits. There were strong infragravity peaks in energy within the surf zone, at 30-45s, although none at VLF (~10 minute) frequencies. Further research is underway to determine what drove the high surf zone exit rate observed at Ngarunui Beach
The large-scale influence of the Great Barrier Reef matrix on wave attenuation
Full text linkOffshore reef systems consist of individual reefs, with spaces in between, which together constitute the reef matrix. This is the first comprehensive, large-scale study, of the influence of an offshore reef system on wave climate and wave transmission. The focus was on the Great Barrier Reef (GBR), Australia, utilizing a 16-yr record of wave height from seven satellite altimeters. Within the GBR matrix, the wave climate is not strongly dependent on reef matrix submergence. This suggests that after initial wave breaking at the seaward edge of the reef matrix, wave energy that penetrates the matrix has little depth modulation. There is no clear evidence to suggest that as reef matrix porosity (ratio of spaces between individual reefs to reef area) decreases, wave attenuation increases. This is because individual reefs cast a wave shadow much larger than the reef itself; thus, a matrix of isolated reefs is remarkably effective at attenuating wave energy. This weak dependence of transmitted wave energy on depth of reef submergence, and reef matrix porosity, is also evident in the lee of the GBR matrix. Here, wave conditions appear to be dependent largely on local wind speed, rather than wave conditions either seaward, or within the reef matrix. This is because the GBR matrix is a very effective wave absorber, irrespective of water depth and reef matrix porosity
Assessing climate change impacts on open sandy coasts: A review
No full textAbstractThe world's coastlines are shaped by mean sea level, wave conditions, storm surge, and riverflows. Climate change (CC) driven variations in these environmental forcings will inevitably have a profound effect on the coastal zone. Given the continued growth of coastal communities and extremely high value of coastal assets worldwide, effective adaptation measures underpinned by reliable coastal CC impact assessments are essential to avoid massive future coastal zone losses. This review aims to promote the adoption of best practice in local scale assessments of potential physical impacts of CC on open sandy coasts by (a) summarising the potential first order physical impacts of CC, (b) suggesting a standard modelling framework for local scale CC impact assessments, (c) identifying future research needs to facilitate the effective implementation of the prescribed modelling framework, (d) suggesting ways to address the identified research needs, and (e) discussing how existing methods/tools may be used for CC impact assessments until more advanced methods/tools are developed
Development of an Efficient Modelling Approach to Support Economically and Socially Acceptable Flood Risk Reduction in Coastal Cities: Can Tho City, Mekong Delta, Vietnam
No full textFlooding is one of the most frequently occurring and damaging natural disasters worldwide. Quantitative flood risk management (FRM) in the modern context demands statistically robust approaches (e.g. probabilistic) due to the need to deal with complex uncertainties. However, probabilistic estimates often involve ensemble 2D hydraulic model runs resulting in large computational costs.Additionally, modern FRM necessitates the involvement of a broad range of stakeholders via co-design sessions. This makes it necessary for the flood models, at least at a simplified level, to be understood by and accessible to non-specialists.This study was undertaken to develop a flood modelling system that can provide rapid and sufficiently accurate estimates of flood risk within a methodology that is accessible to a wider range of stakeholders for a coastal city – Can Tho city, Mekong Delta, Vietnam.A web-based hydraulic tool, Inform, was developed based on a simplified 1D model for the entire Mekong Delta, flood hazard and damage maps, and estimated flood damages for the urban centre of Can Tho city (Ninh Kieu district), containing the must-have features of a co-design tool (e.g. inbuilt input library, flexible options, easy to use, quick results, user-friendly interface). Inform provides rapid flood risk assessments with quantitative information (e.g. flood levels, flood hazard and damage maps, estimated damages) required for co-designing efforts aimed at flood risk reduction for Ninh Kieu district in the future.Hydraulic Structures and Flood Ris
Pulsations in surf zone currents on a high energy mesotidal beach in New Zealand
Full text linkThe exchange of material between the surf zone and continental shelf can be driven by pulsations in rip current velocities. However, there is a poor understanding of the relationship of these pulsations to surf zone morphology and material exchange. Moreover, understanding of rip current dynamics has focused mainly on single-barred beaches in an intermediate state, and there have been few studies on high energy beaches. Therefore, this paper undertakes preliminary research on surf zone current velocity pulsations, on a high energy beach in New Zealand. This initial analysis presents results from two days of measurements using Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters and Lagrangian GPS drifters. Drifters revealed pulsations in current velocities on the order of ?0.5–2 m s?1 throughout the surf zone, whether inside a rip current circulation cell or not. More infragravity wave energy was associated with constant pulsations in current velocity, and lower infragravity energy with pulsation bursts, lasting 5–10 minutes, interspersed with periods of relatively constant velocity lasting 15–25 minutes. However, higher wave conditions also reduced the exit rate from the surf zone
Wave breaking patterns control rip current flow regimes and surfzone retention
Full text linkRecent research into rip currents has revealed the existence of multiple circulation patterns, meaning that no single escape strategy is appropriate in all situations. Rip circulation is influenced by surfzone morphology, which can be inferred from wave breaking patterns in video imagery. Wave breaking often occurs over the bars adjacent to the rip channel, with little breaking over the seaward end of the rip. However, under varying wave and tide conditions, breaking can also occur at the seaward extent of rip channels. Here, we use this difference as a novel wave dissipation parameter to classify a rip channel as either â??open??? or ???closed??? in terms of rip-head wave breaking. A 4-day field study provided Lagrangian rip current data at a macrotidal, dissipative beach monitored by a coastal imaging system. Using this new parameter, rip channels that were identified as closed exhibited a 31% increase in current speeds and 43% increase in horizontal vorticity compared to open channels. The transition between open and closed channels occurred over a single tidal cycle, which altered surfzone retention rates. Closed channels promoted surfzone retention, with < 25% of drifters exiting the surfzone. In comparison, open channels were more conducive to exchange, with exit rates up to 91%. Analysis of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution lifeguard rip incident database showed that open rips were disproportionately represented in the occurrence of rescue events, and calculated here to be twice as dangerous as closed rips. The use of this new open/closed parameter could be used by surf lifesaving organisations, and may have implications for the cross-shore exchange of sediment and pollutants
On the need for a new generation of coastal change models for the 21st century
Full text linkThe combination of climate change impacts, declining fluvial sediment supply, and heavy human utilization of the coastal zone, arguably the most populated and developed land zone in the world, will very likely lead to massive socio-economic and environmental losses in the coming decades. Effective coastal planning/management strategies that can help circumvent such losses require reliable local scale (<~10 km) projections of coastal change resulting from the integrated effect of climate change driven variations in mean sea level, storm surge, waves, and riverflows. Presently available numerical models are unable to adequately fulfill this need. A new generation of multi-scale, probabilistic coastal change models is urgently needed to comprehensively assess and optimise coastal risk at local scale, enabling risk informed, climate proof adaptation measures that strike a good balance between risk and reward
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