1,721,010 research outputs found
Design, sustainability and Australian mass-market fashion : three case studies
No full textThe production of fashion garments has negative environmental and social impacts that can potentially be reduced through decisions made in the design process. This research explores to what extent Australian mass-market fashion designers consider environmental sustainability within product design. The study presents three case studies from different market levels, assembled through interviews with designers, along with an analysis of the Australian mass-market fashion industry. The project provides insights into the workings of the fashion design process within mid and high volume companies, and identifies opportunities and barriers for consideration of sustainability
Fashion futuring in the anthropocene: Sustainable fashion as “taming” and “rewilding”
No full textThe Anthropocene describes our current geological era, in which human activity has grown to become a planetary force. Interest in “sustainable fashion” reflects the necessity to address the social and environmental ills of fashion. Yet thinking on sustainable fashion remains chiefly industry and user-focused, examining narrow questions regarding how industry may shift practices, or how users may engage with fashion differently—hence only tacitly positioned within the context of the Anthropocene. Synthesizing scholarly and industry perspectives, this article establishes two positions on sustainable fashion, and aligns these with the philosophical positions of humanity’s future in the Anthropocene, adopting ethicist Clive Hamilton’s nomenclature. First, fashion’s Prometheans, the techno-optimists, propose a future in which cleaner technologies can lead to the gradual evolution of a better industry. In contrast, fashion’s Soterians take a cautionary approach, and seek to unbind fashion from the unsustainable growth imperative of capitalism itself. Under these two, the definition of “sustainable fashion” may differ, but, critically, their dialogue will shape the direction of fashion. Together, their actions create a “fashion futuring,” a dynamic process of negotiation between what I term the “taming” and the “rewilding” of fashion, within a world of our own making
Counting the cost of fast fashion
No full textThere’s a polyester mullet skirt gracing a derrière near you. It’s short at the front, long at the back, and it’s also known as the hi-lo skirt. Like fads that preceded it, the mullet skirt has a short fashion life, and although it will remain potentially wearable for years, it’s likely to soon be heading to the charity shop or to landfill..
The story of … the military jacket
No full textFashion and war don’t seem an obvious pairing, but the military jacket is a fashion staple. It may take the form of a double-breasted dress uniform with brass buttons and epaulettes, trimmed in rock star braid, or it may be a khaki combat jacket, worn with Doc Martens and a scowl.\ud
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Here I explore how these two forms of the military jacket were frogmarched into fashion..
Transgression and the everyday : art and fashion in the 1970s
No full textFormer Sex Pistols manager Malcolm McLaren has said that punk fashion truly began in New York. In the 1970s, New York was home to the burgeoning punk scene, Fluxus artists and Andy Warhol’s ‘Factory’. Trace the connections between designers, artists and the musicians who became fashion icons such as Robert Mapplethorpe, Patti Smith, Malcolm McLaren, Richard Hell, Lou Reed, and Andy Warhol with Alice Payne (PhD candidate)
The story of … the top hat
No full textThroughout the 19th century, the top hat was a mainstay of Victorian life: a man in a topper was well-to-do, respectable, a man of industry. But now the top hat is only a caricature of the upper class privilege it once represented. Its history traces a line through dandies, beavers, silk, and madness..
Shrinking Violets
No full textDescription of the work\ud
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Shrinking Violets is comprised of two half scale garments in laser cut silk organza, developed with a knotting device to allow for disassembly and reassembly. The first is a jacket in layered red organza including black storm flap details. The second is a vest in jade organza with circles of pink organza attached through a pattern of knots.\ud
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Research Background\ud
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This practice-led fashion design research sits within the field of Design for Sustainability (DfS) in fashion that seeks to mitigate the environmental and ethical impacts of fashion consumption and production. The research explores new systems of garment construction for DfS, and examines how these systems may involve ‘designing’ new user interactions with the garments. The garments’ construction system allows them to be disassembled and recycled or reassembled by users to form a new garment.\ud
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Conventional garment design follows a set process of cutting and construction, with pattern pieces permanently machine-stitched together. Garments typically contain multiple fibre types; for example a jacket may be constructed from a shell of wool/polyester, an acetate lining, fusible interlinings, and plastic buttons. These complex inputs mean that textile recycling is highly labour intensive, first to separate the garment pieces and second to sort the multiple fibre types. This difficulty results in poor quality ‘shoddy’ comprised of many fibre types and unsuitable for new apparel, or in large quantities of recyclable textile waste sent to landfill (Hawley 2011). \ud
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Design-led approaches that consider the garment’s end of life in the design process are a way of addressing this problem. In Gulich’s (2006) analysis, use of single materials is the most effective way to ensure ease of recycling, with multiple materials that can be detached next in effectiveness. Given the low rate of technological innovation in most apparel manufacturing (Ruiz 2011), a challenge for effective recycling is how to develop new manufacturing methods that allow for garments to be more easily disassembled at end-of-life. \ud
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Research Contribution\ud
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This project addresses the research question: How can design for disassembly be considered within the fashion design process? I have employed a practice-led methodology in which my design process leads the research, making use of methods of fashion design practice including garment and construction research, fabric and colour research, textile experimentation, drape, patternmaking, and illustration as well as more recent methods such as laser cutting. Interrogating the traditional approaches to garment construction is necessarily a technical process; however fashion design is as much about the aesthetic and desirability of a garment as it is about the garment’s pragmatics or utility. This requires a balance between the technical demands of designing for disassembly with the aesthetic demands of fashion. This led to the selection of luxurious, semi-transparent fabrics in bold floral colours that could be layered to create multiple visual effects, as well as the experimentation with laser cutting for new forms of finishing and fastening the fabrics together.\ud
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Shrinking Violets makes two contributions to new knowledge in the area of design for sustainability within fashion. The first is in the technical development of apparel modularity through the system of laser cut holes and knots that also become a patterning device. The second contribution lies in the design of a system for users to engage with the garment through its ability to be easily reconstructed into a new form.\ud
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Research Significance \ud
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Shrinking Violets was exhibited at the State Library of Queensland’s Asia Pacific Design Library, 1-5 November 2015, as part of The International Association of Societies of Design Research’s (IASDR) biannual design conference. The work was chosen for display by a panel of experts, based on the criteria of design innovation and contribution to new knowledge in design.\ud
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References\ud
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Gulich, B. (2006). Designing textile products that are easy to recycle. In Y. Wang (Ed.), Recycling in Textiles (pp. 25-37). London: Woodhead. \ud
Hawley, J. M. (2011). Textile recycling options: exploring what could be. In A. Gwilt & T. Rissanen (Eds.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the way we make and use clothes (pp. 143 - 155). London: Earthscan. \ud
Ruiz, B. (2014). Global Apparel Manufacturing. Retrieved 10 August 2014, from http://clients1.ibisworld.com/reports/gl/industry/default.aspx?entid=47
Garden of Shrinking Violets
No full textDescription of the work\ud
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Garden of Shrinking Violets is a collection of six half scale garments and three illustrations, continuing the practice-led research project into design for disassembly, developed in the work Shrinking Violets (2015). All garments are constructed in laser cut modules that enable the items to be reassembled in new combinations. The project extended the materials used to include ahimsa (peace) silk, silk organza and silk twill. The pattern pieces have internal laser cut grids of 5mm circles, allowing the textiles to be layered, threaded and knotted to achieve rich embellished surfaces that play with the transparencies and colour overlays of the sheer and opaque silks.\ud
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Research Background\ud
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Conceptually grounded in design for sustainability, the aim of the work is to develop approaches to garment construction that could allow users to engage with the garments by adding, removing and reconfiguring elements. This approach to design considers the use and end-of-life phases of the transient fashion garment through considering how the garments can be later disassembled. \ud
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Research Contribution\ud
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This construction process is unique in being not only a patterning device but also integral to the garment’s construction. This work sits at the intersection of technical design and craft: the laser cutting and technical approach to developing new forms of garment construction is coupled with the artisanal approach of hand-knotting, a reference to traditional quilting techniques, as a method to layer and pattern the textiles. The technique developed in Shrinking Violets was extended to experiment with different grid structures, knotting devices, and decorative fringing. The result is a proposed construction system in which the laser cut grid and knotting form a decorative patterning device, but are also integral to the garments’ construction. \ud
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Research Significance\ud
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Garden of Shrinking Violets was exhibited at artisan gallery’s Ivory Street window, Brisbane, January 18 – February 28 2016. The work was selected by artisan gallery exhibition curators. As part of artisan gallery’s public programming, the author participated in a panel discussion: ‘Constructive conversations: deconstruction and reconstruction in contemporary craft and design’ with jeweller Elizabeth Shaw and visual arts lecturer Courtney Pedersen, 20 February 2016.\ud
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Photography used in illustrations by Jonathan Ra
Spinning a sustainable yarn : environmental sustainability and brand story in the Australian fashion industry
No full textIn the Australian fashion industry, few fashion brands have intervened in the design of their products or the systems around their product to tackle environmental pollution and waste. Instead, support of charities (whether social or environmental) has become conflated with sustainability in the eyes of the public. Thus it is difficult to assess with any accuracy fashion brands’ response to sustainability. This article aims to address this through proposing a categorization system to structure the various interventions that a company may make. This system is applied to two case studies, analysing campaigns that respond to environmental sustainability by two established Australian brands, Country Road and Billabong. The case studies demonstrate how the interventions employed by a company, at least in the Australian context, are carefully developed to align with their brand story, revealing the interplay between the intangible aspects of a brand’s positioning and the tangible, measurable impacts of their garments
The grow-shrink-and-turncoat
No full textThis reversible garment, the grow-shrink-and-turncoat, is constructed in modules which allow it to be extended or tightened depending on the wearer. Later, it can be disassembled and then reassembled to form a new garment. The laser-cut holes allow for layers of cloth to be added or removed. The design was developed in part from a brainstorming activity with first and second year QUT students – their ideas included a garment which can be taken apart, a garment to fit many people, and most intriguingly, a garment that can open and ‘grow’ like a flower, swelling up in cold weather to warm the body.\ud
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Taking these ideas, I developed a garment which can be disassembled, with layers added or subtracted by the wearer according to aesthetics and / or comfort. The shell is constructed from six squares of laser cut cloth, draped together with six smaller laser-cut rectangles, held in place with removable stitching. Additional squares and rectangles of cloth can be added / subtracted with ties knotted through the laser-cut holes. The laser cutting becomes a patterning device as well as integral to the construction of the garment. \ud
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Conceptually, the garment is grounded in the notion of fabric as a precious resource – the pieces are designed to be disassembled at end-of-life, and then reconfigured into a fresh design
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