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Conversations on Exhibiting Fashion Between Beca Lipscomb, Lucy McKenzie and Amy de la Haye
No full text‘Atelier E.B: Passer-by’ examines an essential facet of the fashion industry: the world of mannequins and retail display.
Since the Surrealists took them up in the early twentieth century, mannequin have been an enduring motif within fine art.
Lipscombe and McKenzie un-pack the disciplines of window dressing, look to radical thinkers and makers who dissolved the dividing line between fine art and commercial display, and piece together a compelling narrative that encompasses ethnography, statuary, dolls, the world fairs and our digital future.
This catalogue, like the traveling exhibition, is a meticulous and idiosyncratic study of the hierarchies which have historically separated the spheres of art and design, examining the border between commercial display and exhibition-making.
Published on the occasion of the touring exhibition, ‘Atelier EB: Passer-by’, travelling to Serpentine Galleries, London 2019: Lafayette Anticipations, Paris, 2019, and Garage Museum of Contemporary Art, Moscow, 2020.
Co-published with Lafayette.
English and French text
Marc Camille Chaimowicz: In the Cherished Company of Others, Kunstmuseum Aan Zee, Ostend
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Bernat Klein Series, collaborative photographic collages with Beca Lipscombe
No full textThe series of photographic collages produced by O’Neill were commissioned by and created in collaboration with designer Beca Lipscombe. The collages combined historical and archival images of Bernat Klein and his iconic modernist home in the Scottish Borders, with contemporary digital photographs taken by O’Neill of the building in its present state.
Bernat Klein (1922-2014) was a Serbian textile designer who lived and worked in Scotland, providing textiles to haute couture designers during the 1960’s and 70’s and later designing his own collections. Klein’s bespoke home High Sunderland was designed by the modernist architect Peter Wormersley who also lived in the borders. The photographic collages styled by Lipscombe and composed by O'Neill, superimpose the contemporary condition of High Sunderland upon its former self. Through this the collages highlight the significance of the location to Scottish design history and reflect on the passage of time, not only within the building itself but also in changing design practices.
The Bernat Klein series was commissioned by Atelier E.B. (a collaboration by artist Lucy McKenzie and designer Beca Lipscombe) and the design curators Panel, as part of The Inventors of Tradition II a traveling exhibition (publication due autumn 2016). The Inventors of Tradition II explores permutations of style in Scotland, including; ‘Casual’ gang culture and its link to street fashion; public space and Scottish style, Bernat Klein's house and the architect Peter Wormersley; football as a territory of designated authenticity and ways this can be disrupted; the phenomenon of ‘Mockintosh’: the local production of Charles Rennie Mackintosh ‘inspired’ high-street jewelry and the instrumentalisation of Scottish style by governmental cultural bodies.
Historical & archival images courtesy of The National Museum’s Scotland and Shelley Klein
Dressing Above Your Station: The Steven Campbell Trust Annual Lecture 2019
No full textThe Steven Campbell Trust is delighted to announce that Beca Lipscombe and Mairi MacKenzie will deliver the Steven Campbell Trust Annual Lecture, 2019. Entitled 'Dressing Above Your Station' the event will look at the life and work of the painter Steven Campbell, considering what it means to dress for the life you want rather than dress for the life you have. They will reflect upon the role of clothing and textiles in Campbell's work, aspirations and cultural identity in order to recount their own aspirations growing up in Scotland and the routes they took in an attempt to develop a vernacular panache. Central to this will be a collection of clothes by the Japanese fashion company, Comme des Garçons acquired by Campbell and his wife Carol in exchange for one of his paintings whilst living in New York in the early 1980s
Dressing Above Your Station: Fashion and Textiles in the Life and Work of the Artist Steven Campbell
Get PDF'Dressing Above Your Station' considers the life and work of the artist Steven Campbell from a fashion and textiles perspective. It examines the depiction of clothing and cloth in his paintings as well as the role of fashion in Steven and his wife Carol’s life and aspirations. We highlight the importance of leaving and returning home to Scotland in their sartorial biographies; and what it feels like to stick out like a sore thumb, for better or worse, in Scotland. Our interest in this approach to Steven’s work was prompted by our own sartorial biographies and, we hope, will resonate with you as you tour the exhibition.
The title, Dressing Above Your Station, alludes to the role that clothes play in our dreams, desires and future selves. Also, the exhibition draws upon a long tradition, one that can be traced back to the sumptuary laws – a sort of mediaeval form of the fashion police – which, even if these rules are no longer enshrined in law, are still a highly codified part of British culture. It’s this clash between how we are supposed to dress and the way we want to that allowed Steven and Carol to develop their very own form of vernacular panache.
For those of you not already familiar with his work, Steven Campbell was a Scottish artist. Although best known as a painter, his practice encompassed a range of interdisciplinary media. He was a graduate of The Glasgow School of Art, which he attended after several years working at Clydebridge Steelworks. He was proud of his working-class roots and this social context informed his work, which included performance, community art projects, appropriation, writing and immersive installations as well as his much-lauded paintings. He passed away in 2007 aged 54 and is survived by his wife Carol and their three children, Lauren, Greer and Rory.
The exhibition continues the recontextualization of Steven’s practice undertaken by other curators and scholars in recent years. To this end, we have endeavoured to show his work alongside contemporaries he is not ordinarily associated with. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Archie Brennan, Robert Stewart, Lord Snowdon and Atelier E.B all provide fresh counterpoints from which to consider the context, content and reach of his practice.
The virtual room you are about to enter is an exact, 1:1 scale digital model of Tramway’s largest exhibition space, Tramway 2. The exhibition appears as it would in real life. It features digital representations of Steven Campbell paintings, clothing and personal mementos. An audio tour, narrated by Steven’s wife, Carol, guides you around the space
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