488 research outputs found
Biodesign and the Allure of “Grow-made” Textiles: An Interview with Carole Collet
No full textBiodesign is at the forefront of innovations in advanced textiles and material futures. Incorporating principles of biomimicry, bioengineering and synthetic biology, a common leitmotif within biodesign initiatives is an ethos of working with or learning from organic processes. Embraced as an alternative to the traditional carbon intensive industrial practices and overconsumption purchasing habits that mark the contemporary fashion and textile industries, biodesigners, in fashion as in other fields, value regenerative production models, biodegradable materials, and circular economic models. Ecological concern is central to the biodesign discourse, where the key potential of biodesign is understood as its ability to overturn models of fast and cheap production and energy intensive procedures that have contributed to the damaging carbon footprint of the fashion industry. Biodesign is not simply a practical endeavour of producing alternative materials, it equally disrupts and rethinks contemporary ideologies of producing and purchasing that have proved ecologically detrimental. At this philosophical level, a number of concerns and theoretical framings intersect the theory of biodesign and issues that are sentient to cultural geographers. In this paper, we explore some of those shared interests through the presentation of a conversation held at Central Saint Martins, UAL in London in December 2018 between Carole Collet (a world-leader in biodesign textile research) and Nina Williams (a cultural geographer researching the ethics of biodesign)
Carole Collet, Mycellium textiles
No full textMycelium Textiles consists of two series ofexperimental textile design prototypes thatexplore the potential of bio-based myceliumtechniques combined with textiles to developnew bio-integrated processes for sustainable textile fabrication and embellishment.Mycelium is the underground root system offungi. By inducing a sterilised food substratewith mycelium liquid cultures or myceliumspawn it is possible to grow new materialsexploiting the mycelium transformation ofthe food substrate into a material usable in atextile context.</div
Designing with living systems, a new prerogative?
No full textWith the emerging biological revolution and a set of extraordinary toolkits that allow us to engineer and program life from scratch, comes a need to reevaluate the position and potential of design. Designers have begun to either embrace or rebel against this emerging bioengineered world and as a result, new design directions are beginning to arise. The lecture will expose this new design landscape where fragments of a possible programmable synthetic future are confronted with ‘natural’ alternative design perspectives
L'exploitation régulée d'une ressource renouvelable : inefficacité d'un rationnement factoriel et efficacité des quotas individuels transférables
No full textThe Regulated use of a Renewable Resource : the Inefficiency of Factor Rationing and the Efficiency of Individual Tradable Quotas
by Louis-Pascal Mahé and Carole Ropars
The use of renewable resources is often regulated factor rationing. The resulting inefficiency of this is studied using a cost function restricted to technology. The optimal solution calls for the deviation between marginal cost and catch price to be equal to the resource’s costate variable. The loss of income resulting from the restriction is estimated by comparing the optimal static solution with rationing. The case studied is scallops in the Saint-Brieuc bay. The resource can be used in an optimal and decentralised way by a system of Individual Tradeable Quotas (ITQs). The equilibrium price for the ITQs is the (associated) value of the total resource at optimum.L’exploitation des ressources renouvelables est souvent réglementée par rationnement d’un facteur. L’inefficacité résultante est étudiée à l’aide d’une fonction de coût restreint représentant la technologie. La solution optimale exige que l’écart entre coût marginal et prix de la capture soit égal à la valeur adjointe de la ressource. La perte de revenu due à la restriction est estimée en comparant la solution optimale stationnaire avec le rationnement. L’application porte sur la coquille Saint-Jacques en baie de Saint-Brieuc. La ressource peut être exploitée de façon optimale et décentralisée par un système de Quotas Individuels Transférables (QIT). En effet, le prix d’équilibre des QIT est la valeur (adjointe) de la ressource en stock à l’optimum.Mahé Louis-Pascal, Ropars Carole. L'exploitation régulée d'une ressource renouvelable : inefficacité d'un rationnement factoriel et efficacité des quotas individuels transférables. In: Économie & prévision, n°148, 2001-2. pp. 141-156
La gestion du sanglier : modèle bioéconomique, dégâts agricoles et prix des chasses en forêt domaniale
No full text[paper in French] Wild-boar can be considered both as a resource and as a pest. It causes collective damages and is also valued resource for recreative activity as hunting. The paper treats the economy of controlling a hunting game. A bio-economic model is presented and used for the analysis. The optimal population of big game is the one minimizing the present value of the hunter willingness to pay less agricultural damages with an infinite time horizon. We take into consideration the loss of the hunter welfare from a decrease in game population. For the empirical analysis, we used data on agricultural damages caused by wild-boar in order to reconstruct their population dynamics. Hunter marginal implicit prices for game hunting were estimated using the hedonic price method on a sample of hunting lease prices in eastern French forests. The long term equilibrium solutions can provide elements for optimal control strategies of wild-boarbio-economic model, management, hunting, agricultural damages, hedonic approach
Carole Collet on the magic of mycelium and regenerative design
No full textMaterial Matters is a platform dedicated to exploring the role of materials in shaping our environment. Curated by Grant Gibson the podcast articulates research directions and perspectives on Biodesign and regenerative design stemming for research inquiries developed in the Living Systems Lab and Maison/0 at Central Saint Martins UAL
Botanical Fabrication: A research project at the intersection of design, botany and horticulture
No full text‘Botanical Fabrication’ is an on-going research initiative which investigates how an understanding of botany and horticultural techniques can challenge the design process and lead to alternative sustainable manufacturing or ‘eco-facturing’ tools. This paper presents different phases of the project, from an initial research workshop (2012), to an exhibition-based experiment (Botanical Factory, 2013) and includes current work in progress (Solar Gourd, 2015) so as to articulate a critical analysis of the work to date. In a context where we urgently need to devise new principles to live, manufacture and consume within the ecological capacity of our finite planet, the paper argues for the development of a new framework for slow manufacturing with plant systems. From Darwin’s research into plant movements to our current understanding of plant physics and biomechanics, designers can begin to integrate botanical and horticultural knowledge to play with the environment of plant growth and envision production chains of a new type
Pour une bio-ecologie de la mode
No full textI was invited to present my work and curate the theme and content of the 6th edition of a series of symposium titled Design Marabout. For this edition I chose to focus on questioning how a hybrid biology-fashion practice can inform a new direction for sustainable fashion.
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"Carole Collet : pour une bio écologie de la mode
Sur le principe du «marabout, bout de ficelle...» ce cycle souhaite explorer le champ prospectif du design dans un esprit d’ouverture et de curiosité. Un invité en amenant un autre, cette concaténation ou chaine «maraboutesque» mettra en lumière des démarches moins visibles du grand public, plus souterraines, voire minoritaires mais qui font la richesse et le terreau du design de demain.
Cette nouvelle saison se consacre aux liens entre le design et le vivant, et cette rencontre menée par Carole Collet porte plus précisément sur ce que le biodesign peut apporter à l’industrie de la mode et du textile.
La mode est l’industrie la plus polluante au monde après celle du pétrole. En 20 ans, cette consommation a quadruplé. Nous consommons 80 milliards de vêtements par an, et cette cadence ne fait que s’accélérer. C’est dire s’il est capital de s’intéresser aux moyens de rendre la mode plus respectueuse de la planète. L’exemple du vivant peut-il nous apporter des réelles solutions? Les pistes sont nombreuses, telle l’utilisation de bactéries pour fabriquer de la cellulose, ou du mycélium pour faire pousser des matériaux sur un mode circulaire; ou bien encore par l’élimination des solvants et des teintures chimiques au profit de solutions bactériologiques…
Le biodesign est-il lui-même une mode ou peut-il révolutionner l’industrie textile et rendre la mode plus responsable? Comment les designers peuvent-ils remettre en question leurs approches créatives pour adopter les principes de bio fabrication du vivant ? Le biodesign textile est-il en soi une innovation de rupture qui à moyen terme peut profondément changer nos modes de production textile?"
From https://www.centrepompidou.fr/fr/programme/agenda/evenement/cBrGay
Designing For The Biocentury
No full textIn this Professorial Platform, Collet examines ten years of practice-based research dedicated to exploring the intersection of design and biology. With sustainability at its core, Collet s practice incorporate a range of design strategies, from material experimentation to speculative design and poetic propositions. She argues that the role of design is shifting from shaping inanimate matter to growing dynamic living forms. In a context where biology has become a technology, we need to re-calibrate design for the emergent bio-circular economy
Suicidal Textiles
No full textThe suicidal textiles collection translates the principles of Programme Cell Death (PCD) into a collection of textile outdoor artefacts.
Suicidal Textiles is a collection developed for the Nobel Textiles project, which celebrates the scientific discoveries of five Nobel prize-winning scientists through future textiles and fashion. Suicidal Textiles was inspired by the work of Sir John Sulston on programmed cell death: the deliberate cell suicide that impacts on the final shape of an organism. The collection was the result of a series of conversations between Sir John Sulston and Carole Collet which allowed for the development of an iterative design process informed by biological principles.It consists of a series of 'suicidal poufs' which are designed to evolve overtime. By using a combination of biodegradable plnat based opres together with non biodegradable polyester and nylon, parts of the poufs disappear over time to reveal a fianl form, thus mimicking the process of apoptosis.
The Suicidal poufs were accompanied by a collection of textile hangings that celebrate the importance of C.elegans as a model organism in the work of Sir John Sulston and in biological sciences in general.
The project was commissioned by the Medical Research Council’s Clinical Sciences Centre and co-sponsored by the ICA
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